Walk the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt with Cicerone
Chamonix to Zermatt
The Walker's Haute Route by Kev Reynolds
Essential guidebook for anyone walking the classic Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. The route typically takes two weeks to walk, and is described in 14 stages. Along the 180km route, it crosses 11 passes and gains more than 12,000m of ascent and descent. The stunning scenery makes it a contender for the title 'Most beautiful trek in Europe'. More...
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p.99, line 3: The path/ route from the Cabane de Mont-Fort and over the Col
de la Chaux to the path junction below Col de Louvie is very well waymarked,
but with blue and white marks (not red and white as stated)
p.114, line 5: The path has changed due to rockfall. The split is now after
about 50 mins and well marked.
p.118, last line: The timings when added up suggest 45 mins from Pas de
Chevres to Arolla. In fact the signs state and having walked it, I can
confirm it is 2hrs which gives a total time for Alt Stage 7 of 7.5 hrs ie
allow 2.5 - 3 hrs from Cabane de Dix.
p.161, Hotel Weisshorn entry: The hotel has not done dortoirs since c. 2005.
Rooms are very expensive - 150CHF pp half board. If dortoir needed, far
better to continue to Cabane Bella Tolla, which is also extremely
Stage 13 & 14 - Europaweg. Rockfall, etc is continually changing the path.
Stage 13 - extremely well marked thorugh the various combes, so no chance of
getting lost, but the path is challenging in places.
Stage 14 - The long suspension bridge after the Europahut remains closed. It
may be repaired in 2014, but no formal decision made. The now signed
diversion route, drops down towards Randa, crosses the ravine well below the
suspension bridge and continues down to a path junction (just above Randa)
at 1708m before climbing back up to join the Europweg again. This adds about
1.5 - 2hrs to the timings.
In recognition of the continuing disruption, the authorities have arranged a
subsidised taxi transfer from Randa to Taschalp. There are full details at
Finally, as evidence of the everchanging nature of the Europaweg, the
section between Taschalp and Tufteren was closed (due to rockfall risk) on
28.08.13. It will not reopen this season and has resulted in the early
closure (15.09.13) of the Europahut and the Europaweghutte (p.213).
Hut openings: If trekking late in the season - any time after the 1st Sept -
check with huts as to their exact closing dates. I was walking from
8-16.09.13 and some huts were closing a day or so after I came through,
despite the guide saying mid-Sept.
Appendix C, p.225 - Specialist Insurance
Provided you have hospital cover in place, it my be worth considering one of 2
Swiss 'helicopter-only' rescue options as this will be much cheaper than UK
bought insurance. Their websites are:
www.air-glaciers.ch and www.rega.ch
Stage 1; p44
The Gite Belvedere in Argentiere isn't closed as previously stated, but under different management and with a different website:
The previous owners of the Gite Belvedere have accommodation in the Rusticana apartments above the pharmacy in the centre of the village.
Check the following website for rates: www.gitebelvedere.com
Email: email@example.com or telephone 04 5054 0259
Grand Hotel Kurhaus - Arolla
This hotel has asked to be mentioned as they are aimed at Haute Route walkers. They offer dortoir places, have shoes for walkers to relax inside the hotel, free internet access (wireless and a computer for customers'use), real fresh meals...etc.
www.hotel-kurhaus.arolla.com tel: 027 283 70 00
Update, August 2009
Stages 13 & 14, the Europaweg
The unstable nature of the Europaweg, which takes the Chamonix to Zermatt route on its final two stages from Gasenried (above St Niklaus) into Zermatt below the Matterhorn, cannot be overstated. During the summer of 2009 it was closed for a while due to further rockfall, and any detailed description of the route is likely to be out of date before next season.
Major changes have affected the route beyond the Europa Hut, with more tunnels being created and cable safeguards put in place; but in some areas the former path has been destroyed and a new (temporary?) trail been made.
The Europaweg remains a tough, challenging but rewarding finalé to the Walker’s Haute Route, with numerous scenic highlights. But all who tackle it should only do so after careful consideration of the risks involved. Before setting out, you are advised to phone the Europa Hut to see that the route is open, and to book accommodation if it is – the phone number is listed in the guide.
Should the route be closed, or you decide against tackling it, Alternative Stage 13 describes the valley option from St Niklaus to Zermatt.
The notorious Europaweg used by trekkers on the final two stages of the route to Zermatt has suffered yet more damage from rockfall. Trekkers are warned that the 250m suspension bridge south of the Europa Hut (p210 of the 2011 updated reprint) was destroyed just 2 months after it was opened at a cost of 350,000 Swiss francs. Currently the route has been diverted downhill for quite some way before climbing back to rejoin the 'old' route, but the unstable nature of the Europaweg will ensure that more changes will occur almost week by week. Great caution is needed by all who tackle it.
Note: the valley route from St Niklaus to Zermatt (Alternative stage 13) remains the safest option; it takes just one day to walk, as opposed to the two days of the Europaweg.
Stage 4 Please note that the campsite in Sembrancher mentioned on p74 of the latest (4th) edition of the guidebook, no longer exists; the site now being used for housing. There are no camping alternatives nearby.
With thanks to reader David Taylor from Australia for this information.