Backpacker's Britain - Central & Southern Scotland
Backpacker's Britain: Central and Southern Scottish Highlands
by Graham Uney
A guidebook covering 30 multi-day backpacking routes in Scotland. The walks range from 2 to 7 days in length throughout the Central and Southern Scottish Highlands, such as the classic through-route in the Cairngorms. The book gives you all you need to plan your next Scottish wilderness trip. More...
Buy from Cicerone
Activities
Backpacking, trekking, walking, wild campingSeasons
April to June and September to December are the best times for avoiding midges. January to March Read More... will give very hard conditions with most routes snowbound.Centres
Fort William, Callander, Crianlarich, Loch Lomond, Aviemore, Inverness, Arran, Islay, MullDifficulty
Most routes are circular but a few are linear. From two-day backpacking routes to a seven-day Read More... traverse. Prior experience of mountain walking and wild camping and good fitness/navigation skills required.Must See
The Scottish 4000ers Traverse, The Cairngorms High Level Traverse, Arran's High HillsROUTE 1
The Monadhliath from Aviemore to Kingussie
Total Distance 36km
Daily Distances Day 1 – 23km, Day 2 – 13km
Maps OS Landranger sheet 35 (Kingussie & Monadhliath Mountains)
Starting Point Lynwilg (GR: NH883107), just south-west of Aviemore and on the opposite side of the A9
Finishing Point Kingussie train station (GR: NH003756)
Area Summary
A great area for backpacking. The Monadhliath range of moorland hills lies between the Great Glen at Loch Ness, and the Spey Valley. The range has a number of Munros in the south, but the northern limits of the area are little visited, despite offering endless opportunities for exploring with a tent.
Route Summary
A superb linear route across the Monadhliath. From just outside Aviemore the first objective is the Corbett of Geal-charn Mor. A route is then followed to the north-west, down to the River Dulnain which is followed to its source, before the Corbett of Carn an Fhreiceadain is crossed on the route southwards to Kingussie.
Tourist Information
Grampian Road, Aviemore (tel 01479 810363)
Accommodation and Supplies
There are plenty of options in Aviemore. Try the Youth Hostel on Grampian Road (tel 01479 810345, website www.syha.org.uk). In Kingussie there are lots of B&Bs, but personally I would recommend the Auld Poor House
(tel 01540 661558, website www.auldpoorhouse.co.uk), which lies a mile out of town northwards along the B9152.
Overnight Options
There are numerous wild campsites along the banks of the River Dulnain, while the bothy at the head of that river (GR: NH718094) is small but useful.
Escape Routes
There are various landrover tracks cutting across the Monadhliath between the River Dulnain and the Spey Valley. These form the easiest escape routes in case of bad weather or an emergency, although heading towards the Spey Valley is far preferable to making toward the Dulnain, which is a remote glen.
DAY 1
Cross the bridge at Lynwilg and follow the road up the north side of the Allt na Criche until you reach the entrance to the Christian outdoor centre. Here there is a stile over a deer fence to the right, and a track climbs uphill – this is known as the Burma Road. Follow this through lovely old Scots pines to the open hillside, where the odd tree still clings here and there to the moorland flanks of Geal-charn Mor.
The track follows the course of the Allt Dubh, but keep far above it to the north. Follow the track around the southern flanks of Carn Dearg Mor, climbing all the way.
At the point where you have the summit of Carn Dearg Mor to the north-east you will reach a small stream with a bridge over it. Continue along the track from here for 1km, until you reach the highest point of the Burma Road. Where it levels out there is a big cairn on the highest point, and here you’ll see a path running south-westwards towards the summit of Geal-charn Mor. Follow this over short-cropped sub-Arctic tundra to the summit cairn and OS trig pillar of this Corbett at 824m (GR: NH836123).The views from the summit are of the Cairngorms massif across the Spey Valley to the south-east, and of the Monadhliath stretching away
to the west.
Drop down to the south-west, along a narrowing ridge to Geal-charn Beag, then take a bearing down to Loch a’Choin Duibh to the west.
The ground to the west of the loch is gently undulating, and you should walk over this, Carn an Fhuarain Duibh, until you pick up a track cutting across the moor. Turn right along this and descend into the valley of the River Dulnain. Cross the Feithlinn via a footbridge, then immediately cross the River Dulnain itself to the north side. Turn upstream, to the south-west. The route now follows the river south-westwards up towards its source. You can camp along here at any number of suitable wild sites, or you can continue to the small bothy (GR: NH718094) at the head of the glen.
DAY 2
Wherever you camped the night before, make for the bothy at the head of the glen to resume the walk. Cross the river to the south and pick up a new track that climbs gently above the headwaters of the River Dulnain. The going here is easy, and you’ll soon find yourself on the western flanks of your Corbett for the day, Carn an Fhreiceadain. If you do not wish to climb this hill, which is only a short way above you to the east, you can stay on the track which leads easily through to Kingussie.
To climb Carn an Fhreiceadain you should leave the track when you are west of the summit and follow faint paths through the heather, clambering over a little scree slope clothed with bear berries and dwarf willow. The small summit plateau is easily gained, and there is a cairn on its south-west side, while the summit is marked by an OS trig pillar at 878m (GR: NH726072). There is also the ruin of a small hut nearby on the summit plateau.
Descend eastwards to pick up a stony track. This drops to a broad col, and then takes you up and over the little mound of Beinn Bhreac. The track then turns to the south, and descends the broad, heathery ridge of Bad Each, while mountain hares scatter in all directions.
Lower down the hill you come to the banks of the Allt Mor, just before reaching Pitmain Lodge. Continue along the track along the east side of the Allt Mor, following it onwards as it becomes a tarmac lane. At the Kingussie Golf Club you can cross over the river via a footbridge. There is a tarmac lane on both sides of the river now, and both lead down easily to the high street in Kingussie.












