The GR5 Trail - Trekking through the French Alps

The GR5 runs from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean at Nice through the whole of the French alpine chain. 660km (400 miles) and takes about a month. Crosses the Chabalais, Mont Blanc region, Vanoise, skirts the Ecrins, through the Queyras, southern alps and Alpes Maritime.

View Sample Route Map

Day 1a  Thonon-les-Bains to Chevenoz (alternative Day 1)

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Distance                25km (151⁄2 miles)
Total Ascent          1090m (3575 feet)
Total Descent         545m (1790 feet)
Time                      7 hours
Maps                      3428 ET and 3528 ET
Food and Drink      Plenty at Thonon-les-Bains. Shop and hotel/restaurant at Armoy. Cafés at Reyvroz. Bar, supermarket andcafé off-route                               at Vinzier. Shop and bar off-route at Chevenoz.
Accommodation     Plenty at Thonon-les-Bains. Hotels off-route at L’Ermitage and Armoy. Gîte at Chevenoz.

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The GR5 from Thonon-les-Bains takes two longer, but easier, days to reach La Chapelle d’Abondance, compared with the direct one-day approach from St Gingolph. The first day’s walk is fairly easy, passing through gentle countryside and woods, with occasional views of the towering peak of Dent d’Oche and maybe distant Mont Blanc. There are steep slopes on either side of the Dranse valley. Little villages offer a small range of services.

Thonon-les-Bains

This Stone Age and Bronze Age lakeside port had its thermal springs developed by the Romans. A fishing museum stands by the Port des Pêcheurs. The 14th-century church dedicated to St Hippolyte stands on the site of an older Roman church. There are several prominent châteaux, including: Montjoux, by the port, with Ripaille along the shore, Sonnaz above the port, and Bellegard in town. Fine belvederes offer good lake views, and a short funicular railway, built in 1888, links the port with the town centre. A full range of services is available. TIC tel 04 40 71 55 55, www.thononlesbains.com.

There are three ways to reach the start of the GR5. If arriving by ferry, passports may need to be shown at the Port des Pêcheurs. The lake level is 375m (1230ft) and there are pedestrian ways (rues piétonnes) signposted up from the port to the town centre. Head straight through the centre to reach the railway station. If arriving by bus, the railway station is a very short walk from the bus station. If arriving by train, the GR5 officially starts outside the railway station at 437m (1434ft). Leave the station and look for the first red/white GR5 markers on Rue Jean Blanchard. Cross a railway footbridge and use an underpass beneath a busy road. Pass the Place de Crête (hotels and café/boulangerie) to follow the Chemin des Marmottés. Turn left at a crossroads, up the Chemin de la Vionnaz, to reach the edge of town.

30min  Bridge over bypass 486m (1594ft)

Cross the bypass and walk straight ahead to follow a track into the Forêt de Thonon. This is predominantly oak, with some chestnut and beech. There are many tracks and paths, so watch for red/white GR5 markers. A gentle ascent is followed by a pronounced left turn, then a gentle descent. Later, turn right at a wire-fenced enclosure to walk up to a road. Cross the road and climb to a car park at L’Ermitage. (Hotel/restaurant off-route.) Walk through the car park and turn left as signposted for a fitness trail (or parcours sportif). The GR5, however, climbs steeply uphill behind a hut to reach a viewpoint.

30min  Repos de l’Aigle 600m (1970ft) Views back to Thonon-les-Bains and across Lac Léman to the Jura and Switzerland

Turn left along a track, then right along the Chemin des Lapins. This path becomes the wider Chemin de Lonnaz, running gently down to a junction at Carrefour du Comte Rouge. Keep straight ahead to curve up round a wooded hollow. Turn right to walk gently down a track to a road near Le Cornabut. Cross the road and turn left down a path, then keep right to follow a track to some houses. Turn right, then quickly left to follow the Chemin des Chartreux, which later climbs to a church.

1hr  Armoy 645m (2116ft) Hotel, shop, boulangerie/patisserie, buses to Thonon-les-Bains

Walk down a track below the church, then turn right up a path. Roughly contour along the top edge of a beech wood, keeping a watch for red/white markers. Turn left after passing a metal barn. There is later an awkward ravine to negotiate, then cross a track to follow a path up to a road. Turn right along the road, but quickly step up to another road and turn left. This is the Route des Champs de Beule, leading to a hamlet.

45min  Les Jossières 722m (2369ft)

Turn left along the Route de la Capité, then walk up a track called Chemin des Pas, which passes a couple of houses and runs through forest. Pass a wayside shrine, the Chapelle des Pas, and follow the track as marked. It undulates, but generally climbs, keeping right to reach 880m (2885ft) before descending. Enjoy a fine view across the Dranse valley to the peak of Dent d’Oche, then head down to a church.

1hr  Reyvroz 776m (2546ft)

Walk down a road from the church, keeping right as marked down another road looping below a graveyard to reach a crossroads (cafés). Walk down a road signposted for Bioge, which later becomes a track passing fields. Parts have landslipped and need care. The track winds down through mixed woods, deep into the valley of the Dranse, landing on a road. Turn right to cross a bridge, then follow a bit of old road to a roundabout on a main road. Turn right as signposted for Morzine, passing an adventure centre.

45min  Bioge 550m (1805ft) Bar/restaurant, buses to Thonon-les-Bains, Vinzier, Chevenoz and La Chapelle d’Abondance

Follow the main road, but watch for a path down to the left. Cross a bridge dated 1736 over the milky Dranse Torrente. Cross a road and walk a short way up a tarmac drive. Turn right up a steep, rough and winding track through mixed woodland. The gradient eases and a right turn is signposted at Les Chênes. The track leaves the woods for fields and becomes a tarmac road. Branch right to follow another short track up to a road junction.

45min  La Plantaz 774m (2539ft)

Walk straight uphill by road and follow a track straight ahead as marked up a wooded slope. Keep an eye on markers to follow tracks and roads through fields, with a fleeting view of Mont Blanc, to reach a village.

30min  Les Clouz 898m (2946ft)

Turn right and walk gently downhill by road, turning left and immediately right as marked, later reaching a bus shelter on the outskirts of another village.

15min  Vinzier 870m (2855ft) 15–30min off-route for PO, bar, supermarket with café and ATM, campsite, buses to Thonon-les-Bains, Bioge, Chevenoz and La Chapelle d’Abondance

Walk down the road from the bus shelter and branch right down a grassy track to a road junction at Mérou. Go down the Route de la Dranse, but when the tarmac road bends sharp right, continue straight along a track that winds down through woods to a metal footbridge over L’Ugine Torrente at 780m (2560ft). Climb up a steep and rugged path through mixed woods, crossing a road to follow a short, steep path up to another road. Turn right, then left as marked at Le Cret, climbing uphill until a junction is reached.

1hr  Le Cret 917m (3009ft) 15–30min off-route for gîte d’étape, bar, shop, buses to Vinzier, Bioge, Thonon-les-Bains and La Chapelle d’Abondance


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