Lakeland Fellranger - Walking the Mid-Western Fells

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Reviews

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6 ESK PIKE (885m, 2904ft)

Esk Pike is a deceptively extensive fell. Although nipped off to the north beneath Tongue Head, the south ridge reaching right down to Throstle Garth is quite the meat and matter of good fellwalking. From the confluence of Lingcove Beck with the juvenile Esk at Lingcove Bridge a staggered sequence of rocky headlands draws up the fell, giving intermediate breaks to this focal ridge. The path sidesteps all the rocky action, keeping to grass until Yeastyrigg Crags. (Could a name be more domestic in origin than Yeastyrigg – ‘the ridge that rises like baking dough’?)

The ultimate mass of fell is flanked by two notable high passes, Ore Gap and Esk Hause, the latter renowned for confusing walkers in mist, especially those who have only made a cursory reference to their map. Many wander up from either Ruddy Gill or Angle Tarn and cross over the lower east–west Allen Crags hause only to realise their folly when the purpose of the walk is too remote to contemplate the effort of backtracking. Walkers hell bent on Scafell Pike will have registered Esk Hause as a key point on their journey, its attendant fell ignored on ascent and then dismissed on descent... but not by everyone. Smart campaigners, who know a good thing when they see it, embrace the fell-top between Esk Hause and Ore Gap and are blessed with a bonus viewpoint with minimal extra effort.

ASCENT from Brotherilkeld (16 – OFF MAP S)

Via the south ridge    800m/2620ft, 8.5km/5 1⁄4 miles

1 A walk of longing in every respect, both for pleasure and exercise. Just to set foot on the south ridge requires a two mile approach march to Lingcove Bridge, followed by a three mile climb. The summit seems to take an eternity to arrive, but there is blessing in that. Few fellwalking aficionados will begrudge the effort, the scenery – total fell immersion; but for aircraft overhead one can forget the trappings of modern life entirely. Use the special lay-by parking, follow the farm-road to Brotherilkeld from the red telephone kiosk. Even in this age of mobile phones, the existence of such facilities is of enduring value for beleaguered walkers and bedraggled drivers stuck upon the infamous Hardknott hair-pins. A permissive path, neatly avoiding the farmyard, wanders tight by the beautifully embowered river. Notice several exposed tree roots indicating how, on occasion, the Esk runs wild. From a hand-gate, the path traverses pasture upon an open track, via gates, to enter the more confined section of the valley. Crags loom, soon the river booms, rushing through Pillar Pot and Tongue Pot, this latter a popular plunge pool in high summer for shrieking bravado dives! A sheepfold, originally used during sheep-washing, heralds Lingcove Bridge, restored to serve many more generations at this crucial crossing. Upstream, Lingcove Beck fights through a series of narrow, stepped rocky channels, finishing at a delightful fall in view from the bridge. Follow the main path leading north from the bridge, take the right-hand fork nearing the brow, a tangible path weaving through the bracken above the lower outcrop of Throstle Garth. The path comes close to Lingcove Beck. Watch for the smart diversion half-left, onto the fell, rising over the grassy rigg to pass through the low, broken wall that once defined Throstle Garth, ‘Frostildr’s deer fence’. The ridge path is picked out no greater than a sheep path, so a keen eye is needed to keep it underfoot. Otherwise the rising grassy ridge, with dips and delves, is accompanied over the shoulder between Long Crag and Pianet Knott. It slants ever upward above Greenhole and Yeastyrigg Crags. Outcrops make it difficult to adhere to a consistent path. Clambering onto the higher ridge, divert left to the prominent cairn on the neat peak of Pike de Bield. The endeavour now eases. Another larger cairn is found above Charnley Crag before advancing to the spine of the fell; bear up left to the summit.

Via Great Moss or Cowcove    790m/2590ft, 9km/5 1⁄2 miles

There are two dale routes to consider. 2 The more appealing travels with the Esk, on the popular path for Cam Spout. If the river is down, one may ford at Great Moss, walking upstream on the true west bank to mount the rigg and thread the ravine of Tongue Gill to Esk Hause. 3 In notably wetter conditions use the Cowcove zig-zag route, passing by the upland marsh of Damas Dubs to the sheepfold complex beneath Cam Crag. Skirt the marsh below Cam Spout, Dow Crag and Little Narrowcove in order to reach the foot of Tongue and climb dry shod. The ravine section half-way up may be awash, causing evasive action up to the left. 4 Accompany Lingcove Beck from Lingcove Bridge. Rough at first, a narrow path ‘comes round the mountain’ to enter the combe over the saddle from Mosedale and soon beneath Adam-a-Crag. Divert from the well-marked path bound for Three Tarns. As it shapes to cross Churn How, contour into the bowl of Ling Cove directly beneath Bowfell. ‘Where has all the ling gone? Long time passing, Grazed by those Herdy sheep every one’... no, not quite true, niftily heather persists, notable in the Lingcove gorge, forming frilly edges beyond the reach of those naughty nibblers. The path avoids the lower section of Yeastyrigg Gill, which is far too stony. It ascends the rigg in the midriff of Bowfell then, curving left over the brow, keeps above a prominent erratic boulder, then comes close to the gill by stony hops to reach Ore Gap.

ASCENT from Borrowdale (1 – OFF MAP N)

Via Seathwaite and Ruddy Gill    780m/2560ft, 5.2km/3 1⁄4 miles

Straddling the headwaters of the Esk and Langstrath Beck, the summit holds a certain remote magic. Few walkers set sail with Esk Pike a prime objective from Borrowdale. One suspects it is visited more on a whim when close at hand, a wise whim for all that. 5 The more direct route begins from Seathwaite. Follow the tread of a million soles to Stockley Bridge, turn south climbing via Grains and Ruddy Gills to join the path rising from Styhead. Take the right-hand fork to reach Esk Hause, with the north-west ridge path onto Esk Pike beckoning.

ASCENT from Stonethwaite (3 – OFF MAP NE)

Via Langstrath and Ore Gap    790m/2590ft, 8.2km/5 miles

6 From Stonethwaite, and the best excuse yet to explore Langstrath to its ultimate extent, keep to the west side path to the Tray Dub footbridge, cross the footbridge at the foot of Stake Beck and follow Langstrath Beck, with the high fellsides progressively hemming in the path. Ford Angletarn Gill: when the beck is in spate this can be easier said than done. The subsequent fellside, running up the headstream of Allencrags Gill, is rough, with just the hint of a path on the steep ground rising to Tongue Head. The popular path joined, with some relief, go right, to the cross-wall wind shelter. Slant up leftward to Esk Hause onto the north-west ridge.

ASCENT from Great Langdale (4 – OFF MAP E)

Via Rossett Gill   785m/2580ft, 6km/3 3⁄4 miles

7 The regular path climbs out of Mickleden via Rossett Gill, on a solidly pitched double zig-zag trail bringing walkers to Angle Tarn with Bowfell or Scafell Pike their principal objectives. For a little extra effort why not include Esk Pike in your journey?
To do so on your way up, continue to the saddle south of Allen Crags. Turn south-west by the cross-wall shelter to rise to Esk Hause and step up the inviting north-west ridge to the Pike on the well-marked rocky path. However, Scafell Pike being a demanding climb, Esk Pike might be best tackled on your way down, if you still have energy left, traversing to Ore Gap from Esk Hause over the summit. Should the cloud suggest that higher brethren will be shrouded out, Esk Pike might be thought a good walk-saving substitution. Follow the path west from Angle Tarn, branch first left on the rise, curving up to Ore Gap.

The name Esk refers to the river. Though it sounds Norse, it is Celtic in origin, on a par with Exe in Devon and Axe in Staffordshire and simply meant ‘the source-stream’, in recognition of Esk Pike’s pivotal position on the Esk watershed.

THE SUMMIT

The south top is fundamentally rock, the north top a looser affiliation, surmounted by a more concerted cairn. The eye-catching pale rock, which from a distance has the appearance of chalk, is most prevalent on the south side; on close inspection it proves to be a thin flaky surface glaze. The central situation on the main ridge, encircling the great wilderness of upper Eskdale and high above upper Langstrath, lends the summit special qualities as a viewpoint. There are several subsidiary vantages either side of the summit worth finding. Descend north a matter of 150m. Peering down a gully into upper Langstrath yields a view of Glaramara. While on the other side of the summit find the bird’s-eye view down the same scarp to Angle Tarn backed by Rossett Pike and the Langdale Pikes. Pike de Bield at the top of the south ridge is the better stance for upper Eskdale.

SAFE DESCENTS

The best objective is Ore Gap. Follow the ridge path SE from the summit. At the Ore Gap depression turn left, N, down a rough but plain path. Join the path from Esk Hause winding on down to the outflow of Angle Tarn. Ford and continue SE bound for Rossett Gill, with its newly pitched zig-zags, and Mickleden for the shelter of Great Langdale. NNW from the summit, the ridge path descends to Esk Hause, a notoriously confusing place in mist. Bear right to find the cross-wall shelter, a key landmark hereabouts.
Ridge Routes

ALLEN CRAGS    Ascent 170m/560ft, Descent 70m/230ft, Distance 1.6km/1 mile

To embark upon the Glaramara ridge, descend the NW ridge to Esk Hause, slant right, passing down by the cross-wall to the saddle. Continue on the stony trail, easily climbing NE to the summit.

BOWFELL    Ascent 100m/330ft, Descent 120m/390ft, Distance 1.6km/1 mile

Descend the SE ridge to Ore Gap. Continue on an oft stony trail which mounts steadily S, only really getting onto the ridge proper at the brink of the scree gully between Bowfell Buttress and Cambridge Crag: an impressive moment to survey Mickleden and the Langdale Pikes. The final rocky crest of the fell ensues; step up SE, veering off the line of the diagonal shelf path. This is a proper fell-top, plenty of stony seats for that all important breather.

GREAT END    Ascent 125m/410ft, Descent 160m/520ft, Distance 2km/1 1⁄4 miles

Descend the NW ridge to Esk Hause. A string of pointless cairns guide to the all too apparent path across the broad depression into Calf Cove. The excessively boulder-ridden W slope of Great End should be given short shrift. Slant up left beyond the bield wall with this the popular path to Scafell Pike. Take a right-hand turn due N. Where the stony ground eases follow the gently rising broad ridge to the summit, almost devoid of rough ground, which will have seemed a wildly ambitious concept when down in Esk Hause.