Bhutan - a Trekker's Guide

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Reviews
• Further Reading

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Trek 1

Haa valley–Saga La–Drugyel Dzong

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Grade    easy
Time    2–3 days
Distance    14.3 miles/23km
Altitude gain    3306ft/1008m
Altitude loss    3739ft/1140m
Status    double check if open

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This 2- to 3-day trek is also called ‘the Haa Planters’ Trail’, harking back to the time when it was used by rice planters from Haa on their way to help people in Paro who relied heavily on their labour during the planting season (mainly May–June). In return, the people of Haa received red rice after the autumn harvest.

This trek is easy, passing through villages in the Haa valley and dense forest on the Paro side. The ascent is on good trails through forest and meadows. The descent is on a steeper trail with loose boulders, so be careful. The trek ends at the road near Drugyel Dzong. You could travel from Paro, crossing the Jilay La (12,400ft/3780m) down into the Haa valley, and start the trek the same day.

Day 1

Haa valley (8895ft/2712m) drive from Haa town (20min) to beyond Yangtong (8971ft/2735m); trek to Khadey Gom (10,611ft/3235m)

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Time    4–5hr
Distance    5 miles/8km
Altitude gain    1640ft/500m
Altitude loss    0ft/0m

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If you prefer to make this a three-night outing, Yangtong could be the first campsite if a hotel stay is not planned. Yangtong camp is located in a meadow next to the Haa Chhu; there is a chorten with a flag hoisted in honour of the local protecting deity, ‘the Powerful Chhundu’.

A dirt road bypasses Yangtong Gompa and goes direct towards Talung village. From Yangtong a steep climb (150m) leads to Yangtong Gompa village, set on a hilltop right above camp. The big temple, surrounded by a few houses, is about 300 years old and dedicated to Guru Rinpochey and his eight manifestations.

A more-or-less level trail through pines brings you back to the main trail to the valley below Saga La. Here the Makhang Chhu flows through the area called Talung. Talung has three beautiful villages – Chenka Gom, Tsenka Wom and Langlo – about 80 households in all.

The trail winds around farmlands fenced with piles of stones to protect the fields from deer and wild boar. Climb to a wooden bridge, Chagdo Zam (‘iron bridge’), so-named because locals claim that the 14th-century saint Thangthong Gyelpo (the iron-bridge builder in Bhutan) constructed the original one. Cross more meadows and some forest until you reach a rock with twin eyes and a distorted mouth. This is the Nyela Doem or Nyela Demon, who was subdued by the saint Thangthong Gyelpo using the Sword of Ignorance (raydee) to slash the demon’s mouth and turn it into a rock. Ever since then travellers using this ancient trail have walked in peace without fearing this ferocious demon. This holy rock is located in the Khadey Gom (the upper Khadey) meadow, where tonight’s camp is situated.

Day 2

Khadey Gom (10,611ft/3235m) to Dongney Tsho (10,496ft/3200m) via Saga La (12,200ft/3720m)

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Time    5hr
Distance    5 miles/8km
Altitude gain    1591ft/485m
Altitude loss    1706ft/520m

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Today the climb to Saga La is on the programme. A gradual hike for about 1hr through meadows and coniferous forest is followed by the 2hr climb to the pass. It is customary to take a gift for the pass; either pick up a rock or break off a twig/flower to pile it on the mini stupa (chorten) built by thousands of former travellers. Once on top of Saga La, shout ‘Lhagyelo’ (‘May God always win over evil’) and you will be blessed. On a clear day there is a fantastic view on both sides of the pass. The view towards Paro (east) includes sacred Mount Jhomolhari (23,993ft/7315m), Chaterake (18,270ft/ 5570m), and below in the valley the Drugyel Dzong and the sacred Taktsang monastery. Looking to the west the peaks of Haa forming the border with Tibet can be seen.

From the pass it is all downhill. Beware of loose gravel and boulders on the trail. A good 2hr downhill hike through mixed conifer forests and rhododendrons will bring you to the camp in an open meadow at Dongney Tsho, surrounded with tall firs. To the left is the black Choshola mountain: a holy place from which a lake escaped.

Day 3

Dongney Tsho (10,496ft/3200m) to Drugyel Dzong (8460ft/2580m)

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Time    3hr
Distance    4.3 miles/7km
Altitude gain    0ft/0m
Altitude loss    2034ft/620m

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The first part of today’s hike is steeply downhill for about 1.5hr until you reach the Genchu Zam (bridge). The hike is through thick vegetation, and laughing thrushes, magpies, nutcrackers and pheasants are often seen. There is a beautiful small village comprised of eight households and a temple on the left side of the trail: Chodeyphu, set picturesquely at the base of the mountain Laump Bjara (‘Foggy Mountain’, inhabited by mountain goats). Another 1hr from this village will take you to Balakha Chhu where the ancient Haa Planters’ Trail ends.

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