Cycle along the Canal du Midi with a Cicerone guidebook

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Stage 4
Homps to Béziers

Distance 63km excluding detours and excursion
Path Generally good: bad patches, particularly near Pigasse bridge and after Argeliers; roots and occasional subsidence between Malpas Tunnel and nine locks at Béziers
Shade Good, but some patches with limited or no shade
Descent 20m
Map 72 or 65 IGN Carte de Promenade
Detours To Argens-Minervois, Ventenac-en-Minervois, Capestang, Colombiers and Béziers; Oppidum d’Ensérune
Excursion From Canal de Junction and Canal de la Robine to Narbonne and Port la Nouvelle (74km)

This stage passes through or close to small Minervois villages such as Argens-Minervois or Venentac-en-Minervois. Mountain ranges can be spotted to north and south while cycling along a 54km-lock-free stretch of waterway. The canal to Narbonne and Port la Nouvelle branches off this stage. You pass the medieval town of Capestang, the drained Montady lake, Malpas Tunnel, the ancient ruins at Ensérune, finishing at Béziers’ nine locks – one of the wonders of the Canal du Midi.

Leaving Homps port

Follow the path on the south side. The path is good to Homps lock, a single lock with a picnic spot on the north side, approximately 1km away. Continue to double-chambered Ognon lock 700m later, with a restaurant close by. There is a mill race beside the lock; cross the River Ognon here too. Approximately 200m later you come to a road and path; stick with the towpath but watch out for tree roots. Within 2km reach Pechlaurier aqueduct and then two-chambered Pechlaurier lock. Immediately after this pass an escarpment that separates the canal from the River Aude.

The two-towered château of Argens-Minervois dominates the right bank of the canal as you pedal on from Pechlaurier lock. Perched on high, it overshadows the village of that name.

Detour to Argens-Minervois

Cross a bridge to the north side to visit Argens-Minervois; a modern port, Port Occitainie, sits beside the bridge on the northern bank. Note a cemetery on your left as you cycle into the village. Close to this and near the canal are the ruins of a 10th-century church, of which only a few arches and a wall remain. The 14th-century château is impressive and appears in good repair. The road leads straight up to its ramparts. Argens has the dubious distinction of having been, in 1356, sold to pay a ransom for the release of John the Good who was a prisoner of the English forces.

Return to the canal by the same route.

Continue along the south side of the canal on the towpath in a easterly direction towards Argens lock. This highly significant lock is approximately 1km from the village. It lies 32m above sea level, and the cycle route maintains this level for the next 54km. The next lock encountered is the first of a stairway of eight outside Béziers.

The path is wide and gravelly here. Look out for Montrabech Tower to the south shortly after passing the lock, the remains of a 12th-century château. The current château produces well-regarded Corbières wines. Note small kilometre markings on the edge of the path, measuring the distance from the lock, which eventually peter out.

From Argens lock onwards a series of small villages and towns is passed. This stretch is especially pleasant as you pedal from the Minerve into the Corbières region. Roubia is reached 2.5km after the lock, a pleasant little village accessed across the canal bridge. You must cycle on the road alongside the canal (D124) for a short distance outside Roubia; this road may be busy so exercise care. The next town is Paraza.

Pierre Paul Riquet lodged in Paraza in 1620, and his son also stayed here during the canal’s construction. The town has attractive streets lined with long-established businesses and old houses. The château is at the top of the town, and there is an excellent view over the plain from the upper part of the town.

Return to the D124 for a short distance and then rejoin the towpath. This is marked la balade de riquet (Riquet’s walk). Répudre aqueduct is found approximately 1km after Paraza, and is the second-oldest canal bridge in the world. Riquet devised it and Vauban used it as the template for many more. Scramble down the bank beside the aqueduct for a glimpse of the arch and a plaque above it commemorating Riquet’s work. Your view may be partially obscured by bamboo plants.

Detour to Ventenac-en-Minervois

The village of Ventenac-en-Minervois is 2km from the aqueduct on the northern side. The old château is built around a tower visible from the canal; the château’s wine outlet faces directly onto the canal and sells a range of Minervois wines. There is a pleasant restaurant/café on the road leading to the village, where the chef cooks meat over an open fire in full view of the customers.

Return to the canal by the same route.

Continue on the road on the south side for approximately 1.4km. Note the towpath to the left as the road bears away from the canal. The path is wide, good and with a gravelly surface. Note a path to the right approximately 1.5km along the towpath signed for St-Nazaire d’Aude, a village visible from the path. Shortly afterwards, a small bridge crosses over a tributary on the northern bank of the canal. A further 0.5km on reach an elegant striated stone bridge. Pass under it to join a road that leads towards Le Somail.

Le Somail is a 17th-century village built to support canal traffic. It has a small port with a narrow cobbled bridge linking the two banks. There are restaurants and chambres d’hôtes on both sides, making this a good stopping point. The village possesses two interesting features: a museum of hats and headwear (close to 7000 exhibits), and a second-hand and antique bookshop with a stock of over 50,000 volumes. There is also a small tower and church on the northern bank.

The next few kilometres bring a series of important canal works and landmarks: l’Epanchoir des Patiasses, the Minervoises ports, the River Cesse crossing, the junction with the canal system that leads to Narbonne and ultimately the Mediterranean Sea, and the Maison des Patiasses.

Pass a wooden sign for the Hotel/Restaurant Domaine du Somail on your right when leaving Le Somail. The small holiday complex has a swimming pool, restaurant and rooms in chalet-style bungalows in its grounds.

The first construction encountered after Le Somail is the Epanchoir des Patiasses (spillover), which helps regulate the water levels in the canal. It is a large vertical barrier with six openings, an overflow system which was built in 1694. Look out for the torrents of water underneath as you cross the works.

Maison des Patiasses is a chambre d’hôte beside the works of the same name, with a restaurant and space for those wishing to camp in the garden at its rear.

Almost immediately after the crossing the Ports of Minervois come into view on the northern bank, where moored canal boats enjoy shade from overhanging trees. Since a detour is necessary to reach these it’s probably best to observe them from the towpath.
The crossing of the Cesse river is dramatic, particularly in winter when the river is in flood. The bridge carrying the canal was built between 1689 and 1690 and significantly repaired in the mid-19th century; it is 64m long and 20m above the river. Take one of the paths on either side of the bridge to get a better view of the arches. The towpath is wide and cobbled on the bridge itself. There are boats moored semi-permanently on the opposite bank; these may include an old Amsterdam barge, de Drje Gebroeders, built in 1894. It often has its mast raised and a small sail unfurled.

The junction with the Canal de Jonction is reached shortly after crossing the Cesse river. The Canal de Jonction is the first part of the canal and river system that leads to Narbonne and from there to Port la Nouvelle and the Mediterranean Sea.

Cross the footbridge to continue on the Canal du Midi towpath. Watch out for hens scratching around in front of the cottage beside the bridge. A factory on the northern bank of the canal spoils the view somewhat. A lovely row of pine trees shades the path, and in summer the air is heavily scented. Cycle through a cutting for 2km until a road is reached. The towpath is very narrow with exposed tree roots; it is easier to stay on the road until you reach the bridge that can be seen ahead.

Cross a busy road, then rejoin the path. There is a choice between an upper and lower path; the upper path gives a better view of the town of Argeliers. Continue to the next bridge, also the location of Argeliers port. There is a restaurant, le Chat Qui Peche (‘the cat who fishes’) on the canal’s northern bank. The original house was built by Riquet.

Continue on the path for the next 5km to a bridge, Pont de Pigasse, built in 1684. It may be necessary to climb up to the road and then descend on the other side as the path under the bridge floods, or may be too mucky to cycle safely. The road to the north leads to the village of Cruzy, 5km away. At the next bridge cross a road before the Relais de Pigasse, a restaurant and wine seller offering wine tasting. The original relais was a stopping place for those travelling the canal in passenger barges.

The path narrows after the relais and is mucky, with some subsidence: take care. The Quarante aqueduct is reached after 1km. This three-arched aqueduct, constructed between 1693 and 1727, crosses over the River Quarante. The church at Capestang comes into view 3km after the aqueduct. The canal meanders at this stage, and takes a further 3km to reach the port at Capestang.

Capestang port is situated between two bridges to the north of the town and is well shaded, particularly on the southern side. The road to the north of the port leads to the town of Puisserguier. There is an aqueduct, du Saisses, close to the port, which channels the water from the Saisses. There was a devastating flood in 1766 when part of the canal collapsed and released a torrent of water that destroyed much of the town. There are picnic tables close to the aqueduct.

Detour to Capestang

Capestang was a prosperous town in the Middle Ages, gaining much of its wealth from salt harvested from Capestang lake (now drained). The town’s enormous church, visible from the canal, is the Collegiate St-Etienne dating from the 13th century, and once the secondary residence of the Archbishop of Narbonne. However, the fortified building remains unfinished. The church is open for one hour out of season (9–10am) and 9am–12pm and 4–7pm on Sundays and Fridays in season. The town has narrow streets leading to an attractive main square. There are a restaurants, shops and general services.

Leave Capestang, still on the south bank, and pass over the Epanchoir de Pietat. This overflow was built after the 1766 catastrophe. Approximately 3km from Capestang pass some exercise bars and public fitness installations. There are boats moored along this part of the canal, making it an informal port.

There are very good views of the drained Montady lake, and its radial design is visible (best seen from the Oppidum d’Ensérune, below). The local lords of the area surrounding Montady decided to drain the lake in 1247, and used a series of radial ditches to carry the water to a central drain over 1.3km long that passes under the Ensérune.

Poilhès is a pleasant village 5.5km from Capestang. Cross a modern overflow system as you enter the town, and pass a barge, the Alegria, now converted for bed and breakfast accommodation. The path brings you into the village centre. Note an attractive building with a clock tower on the northern bank. As it passes through the village, the towpath merges with the old Roman road, the Via Domitia, for a short period. Poilhès takes its name from the Latin Podium Valerii. There are two antique English cannons on the right-hand side of the path as you leave the village.

Reach an old bridge 2km beyond Poilhès; look out for the Oppidum d’Ensérune on the hill on the northern side of the canal. The Malpas Tunnel is reached 2km later.

Malpas Tunnel is one of major works on the canal: 170m long, 7m high and 8m wide, and one of Riquet’s great achievements. He began work on it in 1679 against the advice of the king’s local attendant. Riquet realised that he had to act quickly and completed the tunnelling in eight days, just before the formal order stopping the works arrived.

The tunnel was the first of its kind built for a canal, and is unique in other ways too. It represents a junction of three modes of transport and a major drainage system. There is a road on top; below that is the canal; below that again is the tunnel, dug in 1855, carrying the Bordeaux to Sète railway line; finally, underneath everything, is the drain that carries away the water from Montady lake.

It is not possible to cycle through the tunnel but there is a walkway for pedestrians on the northern side. Climb to the road to find the tourist office across the road and slightly to the right. You must cross to the northern bank of the canal at this point. A path continues on the southern side but it leads away from the canal. Descend to the pedestrian walkway using a flight of steps on the northern side. Lock your bike securely as it will be out of view while you are underground.

There are picnic tables and plenty of places to stop and rest. The tourist office gives information about the locality, and has local produce for sale.

Detour to Oppidum d’Ensérune

This detour gives an insight into pre-Roman civilisation – dating back to the Iron Age – and involves a climb to 120m above sea level (the only high ground in the area). The site of the Oppidum d’Ensérune is approximately 2km from the canal at the Malpas Tunnel. Take the small road that crosses the tunnel and follow the sign for the Oppidum, cycling northwards.

The road climbs steeply and twists and turns to reach the entrance. There is an excellent view of the drained Montady lake as you climb through the pine wood. Although this is a short cycle, the climb feels steep and can be hot in summer.

The ruins of this ancient fortified town are perched on top of a steep hill and have a commanding view of the surrounding villages and countryside. You can walk round the site and visit a museum displaying artefacts from the different periods of occupation.

There are remains suggesting that people settled on the hilltop as far back as the 6th century BC, during the first Iron Age. Little evidence of these first settlers remains except for some food stores dug into the rock. The second occupation dates from the 5th to the end of the 3rd centuries BC. The settlers built a proper town with stone houses, streets and defensive ramparts. Each house had pottery jars sunk into the floor to store food. There was a burial ground to the west of and separated from the main town. The town was prosperous, and there is evidence of significant trade with Greece and Rome. The architecture from that period reflects outside influences. The houses were larger and built around a central courtyard; columns echo Greek and Roman design.

The site was abandoned in the 3rd century BC; it is possible that Hannibal destroyed it as he led his army to Rome. The Romans settled the hill in the last century BC. The site was abandoned in the 1st century ad when the introduction of Pax Romana led to safer living conditions on the plain.

Grain silos sunk into the ground can be seen on the hill. The town was significant – the site today measures 600m from east to west and 150m from north to south. Apart from the archaeological interest, the views are tremendous. On a clear day Canigou mountain in the Pyrenees can be seen to the south, the Cevennes mountains to the north, the drained Montady lake, the line of the Via Domitia, and the Canal du Midi.

The museum is housed in a villa built in 1915 and converted for its present purpose in 1937. The ground floor is devoted to finds from the settlements, organised both by chronology and theme. The first floor displays the artefacts from the cremation burial site. The museum is due to undergo refurbishment in the next few years.

Return to the northern bank of the canal and pedal towards Colombiers. The path is clay but good and well shaded. Colombiers is reached after 2km. The old humpbacked bridge dates from Riquet’s time; close by are two washhouses. Adults play petanque (boules) just beside the bridge on the northern side, and children dive into the canal from the bridge in the summer heat.

Detour to Colombiers

Colombiers is lovely and well worth a quick visit. The church of St Sylvestre was rebuilt in the 19th century but preserves some of its earlier architectural features. It is built on the same site as two earlier churches, thus entitling the residents to describe the town as ‘Colombiers of the three churches’. There is a modern port with a restaurant and other services, and the château on the southern bank also has a restaurant. A private clinic doubles as a bed and breakfast – you stay in one of the private rooms.

Cross the road at the old bridge and continue towards Béziers on the northern bank. There is a choice of paths at this stage: upper and lower. The upper one gives great views of Montady – identified by its 12th-century tower – and mountains in the distance. The path drops steeply after 2.5km; take care at this point. It is possible to continue on the upper path until it meets a road in less than 1km; then join the towpath.

There are exposed roots on this stretch, some marked with red or blue paint. Pass under three road bridges, the first of which is approximately 3km after Colombiers. Be careful of the deep puddles, especially in bad weather. The path is narrow; take care when passing other towpath users.

There are good views of Béziers as you approach the Fonsérannes locks. These ‘nine’ locks are the most dramatic works on the canal system, and enable the canal to drop 22m and join the Orb river. Boats crossed the river and then re-joined the canal. An aqueduct, built in 1855, obviated the need for the river crossing.

Fonsérannes locks form a water staircase for barges. It is well worth stopping and watching boats ascend and descend. The locks operate in the morning and afternoon with a break between 12pm and 2pm. There is a mechanical lifting system on the southern bank of the canal. The buildings on each side of the canal originally housed canal workers; there is also a restaurant and a church. Although still referred to as the ‘nine’ locks, there are only eight locks now. In addition, the seventh lock is a basin that leads to the aqueduct that crosses the Orb. The eighth lock is no longer used as it leads to a branch of the canal that served Béziers.

There is a variety of routes into Béziers proper. Those wishing to stick to the canal paths should cross the branch canal using the footbridge at the final lock (closest to Béziers and after the Canal du Midi bears to the right). Cycle along the track until a road is reached. Cross this and continue along the Chemin du Quai du Porte Notre Dame. Turn left at the next road (800m from Fonsérannes), and turn right at the next junction. The road is busy from here to the centre. Approach a bridge (Pont Neuf, or new bridge) and cross the Orb river, from which there is an excellent view of the old bridge upriver.

Follow the road through the traffic lights and climb the hill to a roundabout; keep straight ahead. Note an entrance into an underground car park on your left, with a ramped path beside it; dismount and wheel your bike up this to reach Place Jean Jaurès (Jean Jaurès Square). Alternatively, continue on the road to reach the roundabout at the top of the Plateau des Poètes (Poets’ Park) in the centre of Béziers.

Béziers

Béziers is the birthplace of Pierre Paul Riquet, who is honoured with an imposing statue in the centre of the town’s main thoroughfare, Allées Paul Riquet. This tree-lined pedestrianised space stretches from the Plateau des Poètes to the municipal theatre, and is the location for markets, festivals, concerts, parades and a range of other outdoor communal activities.

The town boasts 7000 years of history and a vibrant present. The Iberian Celts were the first people to inhabit the site in any numbers (8th century BC), and the town was taken over by the Greeks two centuries later. The Greeks traded all around the world and there is evidence of commercial links with Asia, North Africa and the Eastern Mediterranean.

The Romans took the town in 121BC, and set about reorganising it. They built the old bridge across the Orb, and established Béziers as the regional centre for viniculture. St Aphrodise (who arrived in town on a camel – the animal is celebrated annually) was beheaded by the local townsfolk – and subsequently coverted the town to Christianity.

Béziers’ worst day was undoubtedly 22 July 1209, when crusaders massacred its 20,000 inhabitants (see Introduction). Not surprisingly, the town sank into relative obscurity. Gradually its fortunes revived until the 19th-century renaissance when it reaped the financial benefits of the wine trade. A change in the fortunes of that trade at the beginning of the 20th century brought Béziers to international attention again. Between 1904 and 1907 winegrowers and those working in the industry became concerned at the drop in the price that they received for their wine. The focus of their frustration was those wholesalers who watered down wine or used excessive quantities of sugar to increase the quantity produced (see Introduction).

Béziers has one further claim to fame: as the birthplace of Jean Moulin, one of the heroes of the French Resistance during World War II. Moulin reorganised, reinvigorated and led his colleagues until he was arrested, tortured and killed in June 1943.

Béziers is an easy town to visit. Its main attractions are situated close together, and are easy to reach on a bike. The arena (bullring) is the most distant place of interest, just 1km from the main square. The central square and Allées Paul Riquet give a good sense of the entire town. The municipal theatre (1844) is at the top of the Allées; refurbished by the local authority in the early part of this century, its wooden interior is considered to be an especially good example of such an architectural style. Plays, operas, concerts and variety shows are staged throughout the year.

St-Nazaire Cathedral is the town’s main attraction. It dominates the skyline and is the most visible feature on the cycle from Colombiers. It is positioned on a small terrace, the Place des Albigeois, overlooking the River Orb, and has spectacular views over the river and surrounding countryside.The cathedral is entered through a side door on the square. There is an interesting carving of a beheading over the door, which represents the martyrdom of St Nazaire. Inside the cathedral is tall and airy; worth noting are the choir and the organ, as well as the side chapels and altars.

The 14th-century cloisters are beside the cathedral, and access is gained through a small doorway. Down a small flight of steps beside and below the cloisters is a wonderful terraced garden (Jardin des Évêques), thought to be on the site of one of the original settlements.

Place des Bon Amis (Square of the Good Friends) is close to the cathedral, and records an unsuccessful revolt against the Duke of Berry, when four of the opposing leaders were beheaded. The sculpture on the corner of the square (marked with a plaque) represents the now barely discernible heads of the unfortunate rebels. The Place St-Cyr continues the same theme, where there is a replica of a sculpture showing the decapitated St Aphrodise holding his head before him.

Those interested in churches will find plenty of interest in Béziers. Apart from the cathedral, there is St Madeleine church, scene of the murder of Viscount Trencavel in 1167 and the massacre of thousands during the sacking of the town in 1209. The church of the Blue Penitents has an unusual representation of women saints on the Provencal coast. St Aphrodise church has an elaborate Gothic altar with marble pillars, and faded (but interesting) murals.

The town’s covered markets are worth a look, and are a good source of fresh provisions in the morning. The market (Les Halles), on Rue P. Riquet, is built on the site of a paupers’ graveyard which was once attached to the now-demolished church of St Felix. The museum of fine art is located near the cathedral and has an excellent collection of work by local artists. The Bitterois museum houses a collection of archaeological finds from the Gallo-Roman period onwards and is in the former barracks, St-Jacques (Avenue de la Marne).

Evidence of Roman Béziers can be found in the old Roman arena (Rue des Anciennes Arenes). There are few actual Roman remains but the shape of the amphitheatre can still be discerned. The modern arena is a little further from the centre of the town. Bull-fighting is popular in the region and fights are staged in the arena (Avenue St-Saëns), as well as open-air concerts and operas in the summer.

The tourist office is on Avenue St-Saëns. Béziers is well known for its festivals, including its Festa d’Oc and feria in summer and its wine festival in autumn.