Walking guidebook Southern Catalunya - Spain

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Updates
• Reviews

It is rare to stumble across an easily accessible coastal mountain region which is practically unknown beyond its immediate boundaries. Even more so when it is discovered to have well developed walking and climbing routes. Southern Catalunya may be unique in this respect. Moreover, it is an area of remarkable natural beauty and diversity. The immense limestone crags, ridges and pinnacles of the Parc Natural dels Ports overlook the broad orange and olive tree-clad river plain of the River Ebro (Ebre in Catalan), giving a high drama to the landscape. Downstream the river flows out to the Mediterranean through the Parc Natural del Delta de l’Ebre, where salt- and freshwater lagoons support thousands of visiting, migrating and resident birds.

The region has not been much visited by walkers from the UK, perhaps because it is not obvious from the general tourist maps and guides that it even has significant mountains. In fact, with its benign winter climate, it has a great deal to offer walkers from October through to May. This is well appreciated by the members of the local section of the Catalan walking and climbing club, who are very enthusiastic and active and, naturally, proud of their region. They have waymarked networks of old paths and trails, as well as pioneering some new routes, to enable walkers to experience even the remoter parts. Even so, in comparison with other developed walking areas, the number of people out on the hills is very, very low. In fact, outside weekends and holidays, it is rare to encounter anyone other than the occasional goatherd. Walkers from outside the region are welcomed for a very pragmatic reason – the footpaths need traffic to keep them open.

The walking area

This relatively unknown walking area is in Tarragona, the most southerly province of Catalunya. It includes the highest part of an extensive mountain region that extends over the border into the province of Valencia to the south and up to the city of Tarragona in the north. This guide describes walks in three mountain groups rising from the plain of the River Ebre: the els Ports massif to the west, the Serra de Cardó to the east and the Serra de Montsia to the south-east. The small medieval city of Tortosa, straddling the river, affords good access to all three groups. It is approximately 180km south of Barcelona and 200km north of Valencia. In addition, the local section of the long-distance coastal path is included. The Location of Walks map shows the situation of Tortosa in relation to the mountain groups, as well as showing the starting points of the walks.

Most of the routes in this guidebook are in the els Ports massif, which rises abruptly from sea level to the highest point of 1442m at Mont Caro. It comprises a complex network of narrow valleys and extensive ridges over 1100m, bounded by spectacular cliffs on its eastern side. The lower slopes of the Parc Natural are a jumble of wooded valleys and terraced fincas (country estates), overlooked by steep cliffs and fantastic pinnacles. The paths find their way up, down and around some apparently impossible slopes onto the main massif, where the views are extensive and dramatic. There are surprises at every turn. The nature of the terrain is extremely diverse, often passing from stark karst features to dense pine and holly oak woodland within a few hundred metres of walking, but with a pleasingly low proportion of the thorny scrub which characterises most Mediterranean walking.

The Serra de Cardó offers a landscape of forested slopes, dramatic limestone escarpments and ruined chapels perched on rocky crags. Water is plentiful here from many springs, and the air is uncharacteristically soft for the Mediterranean. The Serra de Montsia forms a high ridge with diverse vegetation, from fragrant herbage on open hillsides to dense shade in valleys lined with holm oaks. Being close to the sea, the views over the Delta and along the coast are exceptional. On a clear day it is possible to see as far north as Tarragona. In sharp contrast to the three mountain groups, the coastal path between the small towns of l’Ampolla and l’Ametlla de Mar winds its way over low cliffs, passing numerous small coves and pebbly beaches. The clarity of the water here is superb, although rather cool for swimming during the winter months. The Montsia and the coastal path provide sheltered walks when there are strong north-west winds on the high ridges of els Ports.

The variety and nature of the terrain is largely a result of it being sculpted primarily by wind and water. Glacial action, which produces larger and simpler landforms, did not reach this far south. Consequently, it has been possible to propose a diversity of routes within a relatively small geographical area. Typical driving times from Tortosa are in the region of 30–45 minutes.