Walking guide to Amalfi Coast, Capri, Ischia - Italy, Europe

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Reviews
• Further Reading

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Walk 1

Over Monte Epomeo

Walking time: 3hr 15min

Difficulty: Grade 2

Ascent/Descent: 327m/770m

Distance: 9.3km/5.7 miles

Start/Finish: Fontana/Forio

Access: The mountainside village of Fontana on the SS270 road can be reached by CD or CS bus from Ischia Porto via all the main towns and villages.

A superb and marvellously varied walk that crosses the mountainous western slice of Ischia climbing easily to Monte Epomeo and embracing a fascinating range of landscapes.

At 787m Monte Epomeo is the island’s highest peak, and one that regales spectacular views over the beautiful coast. Visible from all over the island, this landmark outcrop has a castle-like summit of so-called green tuff which has weathered into photogenic cavities. Not strictly a volcano, Monte Epomeo is the result of a powerful eruption that thrust pre-existing structures skyward, properly known as 'uplifted horst'. It occupies a surface area of 16km², approximately 34 per cent of the entire island.

In all probability the name Epomeo derives from ancient Greek for 'look around', an apt reference to its commanding position, though mythological accounts claim it is one of the entrances to the underworld.

The walk descends through cool shady chestnut wood and vast expanses of ferns and broom to visit scattered rural settlements where fields are dotted with huge boulders. They detached themselves from the mountain during earthquakes and many have been transformed into troglodytic dwellings and stores. The route concludes at the attractive seaside town of Forio. In all a memorable day's walk!

Overall the going is not especially difficult though the dearth of waymarks in the second half makes for some uncertainty in terms of orientation. Take plenty of drinking water and sun protection. Fontana at the start has cafés and grocery stores, while en route refreshments and meals can be enjoyed at several places, such as on the actual mountaintop and at Santa Maria del Monte on the way down.

Drivers who prefer to limit their walk to Epomeo and return the same way can leave their vehicles at the car park above Fontana where the motorable road ends.

WALK

From the panoramic piazza at Fontana (460m), with its ochre-white church and Christ statue with outstretched arms, turn W along the main road in the direction of Serrara. Turn up the first steep surfaced lane R (signed for Epomeo). You join a wider surfaced road but soon leave it for an atmospheric sunken way through chestnut wood due N. The road is followed once more for a matter of metres to the car park and corner café-restaurant Grotto di Mezzavia (600m, 20min).

To the L of the buildings, a lovely lane climbs through beautiful chestnut wood. It narrows to a path cut into tuff then emerges on fern-covered slopes with stunning views. Steps lead across rock slopes, bearing R (NE) up via an inviting café terrace and eatery. Continue past the modest buildings but watch your step as it is a little exposed. Close by is the airy, amazing, wind-sculpted top of Monte Epomeo (787m, 40min). The spectacular outlook takes in Forio and Lacco Ameno at your feet and the spread of the island's north coast.

Backtracking, only metres below the summit lookout is the rock chapel of San Nicola, once home to a hermit. Adjacent but sadly out of bounds nowadays is a rock dwelling where a lone German soldier spent the war years. Return downhill below the café on the path followed earlier for 5min to a pair of iron gates – turn R on a white dirt lane in descent WSW flanked by bushy vegetation and masses of scented broom. Ignore the path turn-off R (an alternate shorter route for Santa Maria del Monte and Forio). Along the edge of a bowl-shaped depression, continue SW with brilliant views as far away as Vesuvius and the Monti Lattari on the mainland as well as Capri. A stretch S passes the prominent Pietra dell'Acqua outcrop and an ingenious old rock cistern with grooved channels for collecting water, essential for the crops grown up here. Between ferns, red valerian and brambles the rough lane loses height passing a couple of huts.

Keep your eyes peeled for a wooden arrow (for Santa Maria del Monte) where you turn off R (W). Soon yellow paint dots lead between two huge rocks – keep R here. The detour L goes to Sierra; a cross and plaque in memory of RAF servicemen who lost their lives here in a 1947 plane crash. The broad gully NW drops through a wood of perfumed white-blossomed acacias below Pietra dell'Acqua. Wind down alongside a stretch of low old stone wall, keeping R at a junction. Despite the jumble of fallen rocks and overgrown stretches, the old stepped way is recognisable. An arch (520m) acts as an opening through a dry stone wall (which marks the intersection of the shorter variant from Epomeo, while L is a 'via panoramica' to Serrara.) Cut down through the trees W to reach Belvedere dei Fratelli (490m), the 'brothers' being three truncated stone pillars. The wonderful lookout takes in the sweep of Ischia's W coast, beyond a maze of roads and cultivated fields.

Turn R (N) down a broad flight of steps that soon narrows to a scenic path cutting the western flank of Monte Epomeo. After a couple of huts is a pretty walled stretch on the edge of chestnut wood, a former hunting domain of the royal family from Naples. A modest but welcoming café/restaurant is encountered on the outskirts of Santa Maria del Monte (490m, 1hr 15min).

Turn sharp L (W) alongside the tiny domed church for a steep staircase and lane in gentler descent past houses. At a Christ statue ignore the ramp downhill and stick to the lane L (S), surfaced albeit rife with potholes. Below is a curious giant split boulder, its surface grooved by man-made water-collecting channels. You soon fork R on a concrete lane and realise that the rock has a house beneath it! This is Pellacchio. A rough path now tests knees as it plunges mostly NW down a cool gully, finally reaching another concrete lane. Ahead is a junction with a stone bench, only metres from a shrine to Sant'Antuono. On a quiet surfaced road now, turn R then immediately fork L as signed for Forio. Via Pulliero goes past rural properties adorned with jasmine and grapes. Down at Cierco on the main SS270 road, you can either catch a bus (stops for both directions are close by) or fork R then L for the final 10min to pretty waterfront Forio (10m, 1hr) which boasts a brilliant choice of beaches and gelato parlours.