Mont Blanc Walks, France, Italy, Europe - walking and trekking

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• Introduction
• Sample Route
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WALK 1
Mont Truc

Small it may be, insignificant in the scheme of things, but Mont Truc is still a summit, and the views are definitely worth it.

Mont Truc cannot be considered a major summit – it might be if it was situated somewhere flat like Holland, but here in the Alps it is somewhat swamped by almost everything around it. I’ve always had a bit of a soft spot for it, especially as for many years I translated its name as ‘Mount Thingy’ (truc in French is a ‘thing’). However, I was eventually put right – truc is local dialect for a rounded dome, which suits Mont Truc admirably.

An adventurous – and unusual – walk can be had by beginning in St Gervais and taking the rickety Tramway du Mont Blanc as far as the Plat du Cormet stop. Be sure to get off here, otherwise you’ll end up at the Nid d’Aigle at lot further up the hill. This tramway has an interesting history: at its conception in 1912 it was envisaged to go right to the summit of Mont Blanc, forging its way through the glaciers! World War I put paid to all such extravagant projects, but it’s fascinating to wonder how far they might have got.

From here the walk goes through the charming ­villages of Bionnassay, and Le Champel, then all the way round the hillside above the Gorges de Gruvaz to reach the Chalet de Miage in time for lunch. What a place for it, with the leaning seracs and glistening ice of the northwest face of the Dômes de Miage right in front of you and the roar of the glacier melt filling your ears. Regional ­specialities abound here, so be sure to arrive hungry and try everything. The chalet is also a refuge, and you may well be tempted to spend a night here.

A short climb leads to the Truc alpage just above and, suitably restored after lunch, you’ll be able to tackle Mont Truc.

A good track leads down to Les Contamines, from where there is a regular bus service back to St Gervais.

Route
From the tramway stop take the signed path to Bionnassay village. Follow the road through the village, past the Auberge de Bionnassay. The path leaves the village just beyond on the right, heading down across the river then up onto a track and into Le Champel.

Just on the outskirts of the village a path goes off left, signed to Miage. This traverses sparse woodland across the hillside, above the deep Gruvaz gorge, to then meet gentler terrain as it enters the Miage meadows. This is a haven in all ways – postcard surroundings and a great café. But be warned: arrive here in the height of summer at lunchtime and you could be in for a long wait -–if it’s heaving enjoy the view but save your appetite for the Chalet du Truc half an hour away.

Cross the little footbridge and follow the winding trail through alder bushes to reach the flat Truc alpage and the café at the far side of the meadows, in the shadow of our objective, Mont Truc. A little path goes straight up to the top and doesn’t take very long at all. From the summit the Dômes de Miage dominate the view, along with the Aiguille de Bionnassay and the long ridge of the Arête de Tricot. With binoculars you may well spot chamois and ibex roaming these slopes – the number of chamois trophies displayed on the walls of the Chalet de Miage attests to their profusion in this region.

Return to the Chalet du Truc, and follow the track which disappears south into the forest. It is signed all the way to Les Contamines, cutting the road as it reaches the outskirts of town, and comes out by the church near the centre. Turn right along the main street to get to the bus station and the shops.

A CHOICE OF CAFES
This dome happens to be right next to the TMB trail, but most TMBers are on a mission to reach their next stopping place and to veer off the trail, even when tempted by a summit like this, will probably mean losing  a valuable half hour. So most don’t. Mont Truc is also right next to a delightful café, the Chalet du Truc, the only downside of which is that it has no licence to sell beer. It tends not to be too crowded, as just over the hill is the Chalet de Miage which does have a licence. Clearly the answer is to visit both cafés and enjoy the best of both worlds.

Car park                  St Gervais station
Starting point         Plat du Cormet 1600m
Finishing point       Les Contamines 1150m
Highpoint                Mont Truc 1811m
Altitude gain           400m
Map                          IGN Top 25 3531 ET St Gervais-les-Bains Massif du Mont Blanc
Distance                  12km (7.5 miles)
Time                         5hr
Grade/difficulties    1/2. Good paths all the way
Public transport      Tramway du Mont Blanc Le Fayet–St Gervais–Plat du Cormet; bus Les Contamines–St Gervais
Tip                            This is a good walk for early in the season when the higher slopes might be snowy. It is also flatter then many alpine hikes, so may be a welcome alternative
                                 after lots of uphill days.