Jura, Islay and Colonsay sit at the wilder, less visited end of the Hebridean island chain. Jura, in particular, is one of the last genuinely remote walking destinations in the British Isles, with a roadless west coast, the iconic triple summits of the Paps of Jura, and the notorious whirlpool of Corryvreckan drawing walkers seeking something well beyond the ordinary.

This comprehensive Cicerone guidebook by Peter Edwards covers 22 day walks and one five-day 89km (55-mile) trek along Jura's remote west coast, across Jura, Islay, Colonsay, Oronsay and Scarba. With routes suitable for fit, experienced walkers comfortable with rough, often pathless terrain, the guidebook provides clear route descriptions and 1:50,000 OS mapping with practical information on bothies, wild camping, accommodation and island transport throughout.

• 22 day walks and one five-day 89km west coast trek are included across five islands, with day walks ranging from 7 to 25km and suitable for experienced walkers comfortable with challenging, waymark-free terrain
• The Paps of Jura, one of the finest and most demanding hill walking challenges in the southern Hebrides, is covered in full with a complete route description and mapping
• 1:50,000 OS mapping is provided for every walk, with detailed notes on navigation across Jura and Islay's often pathless terrain, where strong map and compass skills are essential
• Bothy and wild camping information throughout, with notes on locations, conditions and access across all five islands, including the Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy on Scarba
• Comprehensive island logistics, covering ferry connections to and between Jura, Islay, Colonsay and Scarba, public transport, accommodation and the best time to visit each island

Peter Edwards has lived in the Hebrides for years and brings an intimate, first-hand knowledge of these islands to every route in this guidebook. Jura, Islay and Colonsay reward every walker who makes the crossing, and Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay ensures you make the most of every step.

Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay - Quick Facts

Area: Southern Hebrides, Scotland 
Islands covered: Jura, Islay, Colonsay, Oronsay, Scarba 
Total walks: 23 (22 day walks plus one five-day trek) 
Day walk distances: 7 to 25km (4 to 16 miles) 
West coast trek: 89km (55 miles) over 5 days along Jura's remote west coast 
Difficulty: Experienced walkers only — rough, often pathless terrain with no waymarks; strong navigation skills essential; Islay and Colonsay more accessible but still require navigational competence 
Walk highlights: Paps of Jura, Gulf of Corryvreckan, Jura west coast trek, Cruach Scarba, Beinn Bheigier (Islay), Oronsay circuit, Kiloran Bay (Colonsay) 
Bothies: Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy (Scarba); An Cladach bothy (Islay); Glengarrisdale and Cruib Lodge (Jura) 
Wild camping: Notes and recommendations throughout 
Mapping: 1:50,000 OS maps included for every walk 
Centres: Jura — Craighouse, Feolin, Ardlussa; Islay — Port Askaig, Port Ellen, Bowmore; Colonsay — Scalasaig; Scarba — Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy 
Travel information: Ferry connections, inter-island transport and accommodation covered in full 
Best time to visit: Spring and autumn; summer midges and bracken can be problematic; winter wet and wild with short days

Author Highlight

“Tucked away off the Kintyre peninsula, 80km (50 miles) or so west of Glasgow as the crow flies, the Southern Hebridean islands of Jura, Islay and Colonsay provide a sublime setting for some of the finest and most challenging walking to be found in Scotland, or indeed anywhere in the British Isles. For experienced walkers who love wild and expansive landscapes, these islands offer a wealth of superb walking.”

- Peter Edwards, author of Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay

Map key
Overview map

Introduction
Jura
Islay
Colonsay
History
Geology
Wildlife
Getting to the Southern Hebrides
Getting between the islands
The routes
Maps and route-finding
Safety and emergencies
What to take
Using this guide

Jura
Walk 1    The Gulf of Corryvreckan
Walk 2    Road End to Glengarrisdale
Walk 3    The west coast walk
Day 1    Ardlussa or Kinuachdrachd to Glengarrisdale
Day 2    Glengarrisdale to Shian Bay
Day 3    Shian Bay to Cruib Lodge
Day 4    Cruib Lodge to Glenbatrick Bay
Day 5    Glenbatrick Bay to Feolin Ferry
Day 5A    Glenbatrick Bay to the A846 via Glen Batrick
Walk 4    North Jura coast and glens
Walk 5    Tarbert to Cruib Lodge bothy
Walk 6    Glengarrisdale to Cruib across Jura’s northern hills
Walk 7    Ardlussa to Corpach Bay and Am Miadar
Walk 8    The Paps of Jura
Walk 9    Evans’ Walk to Glenbatrick Bay and return
Walk 10    Glas Bheinn and Dubh Bheinn

Scarba
Walk 11    Cruach Scarba

Islay
Walk 12    Rhuvaal and the north-west coast
Walk 13    An Cladach, McArthur’s Head and the Sound of Islay
Walk 14    An Cladach–Beinn Bheigier circuit
Walk 15    Beinn na Caillich and Beinn Bheigier from Ardtalla
Walk 16    The Oa peninsula
Walk 17    Sanaigmore to Kilchiaran
Walk 18    Ardnave Point

Colonsay
Walk 19    Around Oronsay
Walk 20    South Colonsay coast
Walk 21    Lower Kilchattan to Kiloran Bay
Walk 22    North Colonsay coast
Walk 23    Scalasaig to Kiloran Bay along the Old Road

Appendix A    Route summary table
Appendix B    Walks on other islands
Appendix C    Useful contacts
Appendix D    Glossary
Appendix E    Further reading

Seasons

Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit, though these routes can be walked all year round. Winter can be wet and wild with short days, and in summer midges and bracken can be a real problem.

Centres

JURA - Feolin, Craighouse, Tarbert, Ardlussa, Kinuachdrachd, Glengarrisdale, Ruantallain, Cruib, Glenbatrick Bay ISLAY - Port Askaig, Port Ellen, Port Charlotte, Bowmore, Bridgend, Ballygrant, Bunnahabhain, Ardbeg COLONSAY - Scalasaig, Oronsay, Kilchattan, Kiloran SCARBA - Kilmory Lodge, Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy

Difficulty

The west coast of Jura walk, a round of the Paps or an ascent of Cruach Scarba should only be considered by fit, experienced walkers with strong navigational skills, as there are no waymarks and no footpaths. Walking on Islay and Colonsay is more accessible, but still requires navigational competence. All walkers should be equipped for rough terrain and wet weather.

Must See

The wild and remote west coast of Jura - one of the British Isles' last great wilderness walks, with spectacular geological formations and abundant wildlife; the Paps of Jura - a rough, tough hill-walking classic; dramatic land and seascapes from the Islay and Colonsay coasts; the small-island summit of Cruach Scarba, rising from the sea between the infamous tidal races of Corryvreckan and the Grey Dog

April 2025

Walks 3 and 7

April 2022

An Cladach bothy - Walks 13 and 14

August 2021

Colonsay overnight parking

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