Mountaineering guide to the High Atlas, Morocco - North Africa
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Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas
by Des Clark
The first English-language guide to winter mountaineering right across the Moroccan High Atlas of North Africa from Taroudant in the south-west to Midelt in the north-east, all accessible from Marrakech. Covers routes on 40 peaks over 3000m, including Jbel Toubkal, Ighil Mgoun, Jbel Tinergwet. For experienced winter walkers and mountaineers. More...
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Activities
scrambling, climbing, walkingSeasons
All routes described can be undertaken in the spring and autumn, but most have been described with Read More... a winter ascent in mind.Centres
Taroudant, Marrakech, Imlil, Oukaimeden, Ait Bougammez, Zawat Ahansal, MideltDifficulty
Most of the technical climbing grades fall within the Alpine F- to AD range; also included are the Read More... author's own grades for remoteness, navigation and commitment.Must See
all the 4000m peaks in the High Atlas, including Jbel Toubkal in the central region and Ighil Read More... Mgoun in the east, and Jbel Tinergwet, Jbel Awlim and the Tichka plateau in the south-west
Le Massif du Toubkal, Jean Dresch et Jacques de Lépiney, 1942
Still the most complete climbing guide there is for the Toubkal region. [in French]
Atlas Mountains Morocco, Robin G Collomb, published by West Col, 1980
Covers the peaks within Toubkal National Park.
Ski dans le Haut Atlas de Marrakech, Claude Cominelli, published by Claude Cominelli, 1984
A ski-touring guide to the High Atlas, south of Marrakech. [in French]
Great Atlas Traverse, vols 1 and 2, Michael Peyron, published by West Col, 1989
The complete traverse of the High Atlas, including ascents of many of the prominent peaks.
Montagnes du Maroc, Hervé Galley, published by Olizane, 2004
A trekking and ski-touring guidebook for the High Atlas. [in French]
The Mountains look on Marrakech, Hamish Brown, published by Whittles Publishing, 2007
A recount of Hamish Brown’s 96-day complete traverse of the High Atlas in 1995.
Toubkal Guiá de Ascensiones y Escaladas, David Taurà Riera, published by Desnivel, 2008
A topo guide to climbs in the Toubkal massif. [in Spanish]
General guides
Morocco, Marvie Howe, published by Oxford University Press, 2005
A bird’s-eye view of modern Morocco and its history since independence.
The Rough Guide to Morocco, published by Rough Guides, 2010
Essential travel reading for those wishing to explore this country.
History
Mogreb-El-Acksa, RB Cunningham Graham, published by Century, 1988
A fascinating tale of a Scottish Liberal MP who tried to reach Taroudant from Essaouira in 1897 in disguise. Taroudant was at that time a city forbidden to Europeans. His eventual failure does nothing to diminish the story’s intrigue.
Lords of the Atlas, Gavin Maxwell, published by The Lyons Press, 2000
A history of the wheelings and dealings of the ruthless House of Glaoua, based in the High Atlas. Covers the period from the early 20th century to the end of the French occupation. There is nothing quite like this book to give you an essential history of Morocco and the High Atlas.
Special interest guides
A Birdwatcher’s Guide to Morocco, Patrick and Fédora Bergier, published by Prion Ltd, 1990
Describes the various species and best locations for birdwatching in Morocco.
The Berbers of Morocco, Alan Keohane, published by Hamish Hamilton, 1991
An excellent photo-essay of the High Atlas Berbers.
Imazighen, Margaret Courtney-Clarke, published by Thames and Hudson, 1996
A coffee-table book on the vanishing traditions of Berber women. A historical photography record of the disappearing craftwork of the High Atlas.
Skills guides
Avalanche!, Robert Bolognesi, published by Cicerone Press, 2007
Snow, Robert Bolognesi, published by Cicerone Press, 2007
Pocket First Aid and Wilderness Medicine, Jim Duff and Peter Gormly, published by Cicerone Press, 2008
Related blog post
Winter trips in the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains
As a complement to his book, Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas, Cicerone author Des Clark read more…
