Mountaineering guide to the High Atlas, Morocco - North Africa

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Reviews
• Further Reading

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JBEL AWLIM (3482m)           

First climbed in 1927 by the French geologist Louis Neltner, and subject to a couple of other French and Polish expeditions in the late 1920s, the potential for new routes on Jbel Awlim has been largely unknown or ignored, save for a few enthusiasts.

Most easily accessed from the south and south-west, it is really the north and east approaches that give the most mountaineering potential. The south-west ridge is taken as a direct continuation from Jbel Tinergwet, whereas the south ridge, while still approached from Taroudant, is gained from another valley system to the east of Tamarowt.

In addition, a complete traverse of the peak can be made either by descending the north-east ridge and continuing on to do the ‘Ridge of a Hundred Peaks’ (see ‘Additional routes’) or, best, by ascending from the north-east and continuing south-west to Tinergwet, from where either of Routes 1 and 2, described above, can be taken. This approach gives the mountaineer many more potential route lines of ascent and is one of the ‘Additional routes’ for this area.

Note that there are no easy escape routes off this peak except via the approach from Tizi n-Tajelt.

3 Jbel Awlim south-west ridge - F

Time 1hr
Ratings R2,N1,C1
Start Tinergwet (3551m)

From the summit of Tinergwet, descend initially to the S for 50m to gain the rocky ridge leading NE. Initial loose blocks give way to firmer rock scrambling before gaining the broad saddle of Tizi n-Tajelt (3231m). From here the summit of Awlim is evident, although the route possibly less so. At the start of the rise to the summit, trend left (N) and then go direct up 100m of grade 2 scrambling, which exits you onto a narrow sloping ramp to the N summit. The slightly higher S summit is a short scramble away. The views dropping off to the E are awesome, and those back to Tinergwet are particularly fine.

4 Jbel Awlim south ridge - 2380m, AD

Access From Taroudant, head N past the Sunday souk grounds on your left and the college to your right and pass through the village of Tamaloukt, keeping straight at this point. Immediately the road begins to rise with a series of bends until it eventually reaches a plateau. Continue past a number of small villages, including Souk Sebt Tafrouten and Tanefacht, and after another 15mins arrive at Sunday Souk el Had, Imoulas (1100m, 1hr 15mins).

Accommodation Some small auberges and unofficial houses provide basic accommodation. 

Local transport Minibuses and grand taxis depart a number of times daily from the NE gate of Taroudant, Bab el Khemis. At the time of writing the cost is 50dh per person, plus a small charge for baggage in a minibus. Journey time is around 1hr 30mins. In addition on souk day (Sunday), camionette transport leaves from the car park on the S side of Place Assarag, Taroudant.

Map 1:50,000 series, Souq Sebt-Talmakant, Feuille NH-29-XVI-3c

Equipment Camping/bivvying for at least 2 nights on the mountain, possibly up to 3 depending on route chosen. Rope and some long slings. In winter, harness, krabs, 2 axes and crampons.

Time 3–4 days depending on descent route

Ratings R2,N2,C2

Start Imoulas

The south ridge is rarely attempted, and proclaiming your intentions in Imoulas will likely result in you being persuaded that the route is impossible! It is a committing route both in terms of height gain and technical difficulties, which gets harder the higher you go. Unless you are prepared to travel very fast and light and are able to manage a height gain of around 2400m in a day, it is more humane to stage the trip over two days and more, depending on what descent route you opt to take.

If you have travelled to Imoulas by public transport and arrive there mid-afternoon, it will be too late to head straight off. However, if you have your own transport and/or have been able to arrive before midday, then it is possible to start the route immediately and have the time to choose a bivvy site while there is still light.

Setting out from Imoulas, take a mule trail NW initially, following the Asif (= river) Awlim before taking higher ground to the W and eventually dropping back down to river and the village of Tammast (2hrs 30mins).

From Tammast leave the river and head NE up a steepening track in a seasonal stream bed before levelling off somewhat to 1983m (1hr).

Veering NW to just beyond 2311m and then NNE, the profile of the S ridge will begin to take shape, with steepening ground to your left (W) and complicated ravine systems feeding the Asif Ait Wedjas to your right (E).

Bivvy sites become less welcoming from about 3000m, so aim to overnight around Pt 2743m. Depending on the season you may find a water source close by (6hrs from Imoulas).

From Pt 2743m the S ridge rises in rocky steps direct to the summit of Awlim. In winter, the ridge is stunningly Alpine. There are no viable escape routes from here to the summit, and the ability to retreat back along one’s steps must be continually assessed, in case there comes a point when that is required. The ridge line should be maintained, as little is gained by dropping off to one side or the other. Grade 2 scrambling out of winter and Alpine PD+ in winter will bring you 150m below the S summit in under 2hrs from point 2743m.

At this point, the ground steepens considerably. Traversing left for 30m, pitch the final (snow) gully to the S summit (Scottish 3–4). As an alternative route for snow-free ascents, a faint line traverses through broken rock pinnacles to below the extreme NE end of the Tizi n-Tajelt. Rock enthusiasts will doubtless pick out new lines on the SE arete.

All these routes demand an ability to cope with sustained exposure while climbing this last 150m. Summit views, especially in winter, are unbeatable (3hrs–3hrs 30mins from Pt 2743m).

Descend by reversing Route 3, above.