Discover the best Winter Climbs around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Reviews

Scottish winter climbing is world renowned for its adventure and quality of experience. Nowhere is it better than on Ben Nevis, the peaks of Glen Coe and the surrounding mountains. So popular and well known is Ben Nevis that climbers from all parts of the globe can be heard calling to each other while enjoying the unique style of climbing found here.

The traditional approach to climbing is strongly maintained here, and the history of the climbs is well remembered. Modern ice climbing was developed here, and that heritage adds greatly to the modern-day climbing experience.

In the winter of 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith completed the most significant week of climbing ever achieved in Scotland. Orion Direct, Smith’s Route, Minus Two Gully and the first single-day free ascent of Point Five Gully were amongst the seven climbs they completed on consecutive days. All of this was achieved with a single ice axe each and crampons with no front points.

Ten years later, in 1970, Yvon Chouinard made a brief visit which was to trigger a change that would revolutionise winter climbing. Using prototype curved ice hammers he made some very fast ascents, demonstrating how to climb ice by direct aid, hanging off the pick itself embedded in the ice. Comparing techniques with John Cunningham, Hamish MacInnes and many others in the Clachaig one night, modern ice climbing was born.

That year Hamish MacInnes developed ‘The Terrordactyl’, a short, all-metal ice tool with a steeply dropped pick. The ‘Terror’ and Chouinard’s ice hammer dominated the forefront of international ice climbing for several years. Eventually these two designs were combined to create the banana pick, which is still the basis for modern ice-tool design. Today, exactly 50 years on from the Marshall and Smith pinnacle of the step-cutting era, we are still using the same techniques.

Since the last edition of this book some things have changed dramatically. There is now a dedicated car park for climbers in Torlundy, a well-constructed path to the North Face of Ben Nevis and the Mountain Track from Glen Nevis is much improved, all thanks to The Nevis Partnership. The National Trust for Scotland and the Forestry Commission have continued their excellent work in Glen Coe, maintaining and improving the trails there, with improved car parks as well. The evolution of the internet has made information on new climbs and current conditions far more available, and enabled climbers to share experiences. Some new routes are now fully described online even before the climbers have returned to the valley!

Some things remain constant, though, and today’s winter specialists still find more than enough climbing to the highest of modern technical standards to encourage them back, year after year. The hardest traditionally protected winter climb in the world is currently found on Ben Nevis – Anubis, first climbed by local resident Dave MacLeod. The dark art of judging the condition of the snow and ice, and choosing the best route for any given day, is still a skill to be developed over many years and many climbs. Learning how to take care of yourself in full winter conditions is still a requirement for anyone climbing here, and is a skill as important as any climbing technique. Indeed, on some days just surviving the weather is the challenge, whether you manage any climbing or not!

Many of the routes are longer than experienced anywhere else in British hills and are of alpine-like seriousness. It is not a good idea to be lured onto the famous Tower Ridge of Ben Nevis as your first Scottish winter climb. The Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team has escorted dozens of shivering ‘all nighters’ off this route in the dull grey hours of dawn! Try something shorter to start with as a ‘Wee Scottish Apprenticeship’.

A combination of short daylight hours and possible strong winds, poor weather and snow conditions add to the serious nature of Scottish winter climbing. Fitness is of prime importance to sustain climbers through long hours, carrying far more weight in their rucksacks than would be experienced in the summer months. Climbers must be economical with their time and aim to keep moving as fluently as is practical in order to avoid a possibly serious benightment or slip on a dark unknown descent. Records show that novice and experienced climbers alike come to grief on these Scottish mountains, sometimes with fatal consequences. Scottish winter climbing is good sport, but don’t treat these routes as ‘sports climbs’!