Discover the best Winter Climbs around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe
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Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe
by Mike Pescod
A practical guidebook to the best winter climbing routes around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, with over 900 buttresses, ridges and gullies described giving climbers a wide choice of grades and types. Scottish winter climbing is world renowned, nowhere is it better than on Ben Nevis, the peaks of Glen Coe and surrounding mountains. More...
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Seasons
from October to May with February and March offering the most reliable climbing and April the Read More... unique ice climbing that Ben Nevis is famed forCentres
Fort William and Glen Coe on the west coast of ScotlandDifficulty
everything from first steps in grade I snow gullies to the hardest traditional winter climb in the Read More... world with information on how to judge the climbing conditions and choose the best routeMust See
from the classic climbs of Point Five Gully, the Aonach Eagach and Crowberry Gully to the modern Read More... masterpieces of The Secret and Anubis, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and Beag, The Grey Coires and Mamores, Bidean nam Bian and Buachaille Etive Mor
List of diagrams
Preface
Introduction
Climbing conditions
Weather and avalanches
Access rights
Equipment and safety
Using this guide
Rescue facilities
Amenities
BEN NEVIS
CENTRAL AREA
Approaches for Ben Nevis
Descents from Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis – general topography
Climbs from Coire Leis
Little Brenva Face
Climbs from Observatory Gully
The Minus Face
The Orion Face
Observatory Ridge
Observatory Buttress
Indicator Wall
Gardyloo Buttress
Tower Ridge – East Side
Douglas Boulder
Climbs from Coire na Ciste
Tower Ridge – West Side
The Upper Cascades
The Comb
Number Three Gully Buttress
Creag Coire na Ciste
The Trident Buttresses
Carn Dearg Buttress
Carn Dearg Summit Gullies
Climbs from Castle Coire
The Castle
North Face of Castle Ridge
‘A big ride’ by Dave Macleod
OUTLYING AREAS
Stob Ban
Mullach nan Coirean
Glen Nevis
Five Finger Gully Area
Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag
Aonach Mor East Face – Coire an Lochain
Aonach Mor West Face
Sgurr Finnisg-aig – Allt na h-Aire cascade
Aonach Beag North Face
Aonach Beag West Face
Stob Coire an Laoigh
‘A long way down’ by Mike Pescod
GLEN COE
CENTRAL AREA
Climbs from Coire nam Beith
An-t-Sron
Stob Coire nam Beith
West Top of Bidean nam Bian
Bidean nam Bian
Diamond Buttress
Collie’s Pinnacle
Church Door Buttress
Aonach Dubh
West Face of Aonach Dubh
North Face of Aonach Dubh
East Face of Aonach Dubh
Stob Coire nan Lochan
West and North Faces of Gearr Aonach
Climbs from Coire Gabhail
East Face of Gearr Aonach
Lost Valley Minor Buttress
Lost Valley Buttress
Beinn Fhada and Stob Coire Sgreamhach
Lost Valley Ice Slabs
North Face of Beinn Fhada
Buachaille Etive Mor – Stob Dearg
Stob Dearg from Glen Etive – South East Face
Stob Dearg – North East Face – Lagangarbh approach
Coire na Tulaich
Stob Coire Altruim
The Aonach Eagach
Aonach Eagach – South Flank
‘Haunt of the raven’ by Hamish MacInnes
OUTLYING AREAS
Beinn Fhionnlaidh
Beinn a’Bheithir
Sgorr Dhonuill
Sgor na h-Ulaidh
A’Chaillach South East Face
Sron na Lairig
Glen Etive
Glen Ceitlein Slabs
Beinn Trilleachan – Etive Slabs
Ben Starav – Stob Choire Dheirg
Stob a’Ghlais Choire
Beinn Udlaidh
Appendix A: Accommodation for climbers
Appendix B: Index of routes











