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Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms - Front Cover
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Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms

Selected snow, ice and mixed climbs in the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh

Guidebook with topo diagrams, approach maps and clear route descriptions for hundreds of Scotland's best winter climbs in the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh. Contains a wide selection of grades, lengths and styles of climb, from straightforward snow gullies to mixed turf, rock and icy routes and advanced ice climbs. Routes are classified by area and style, helping climbers choose according to weather and conditions.

Quick facts

  • Location: Scotland – the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh
  • Routes covered: 450+ winter climbs across snow, ice, and mixed styles
  • Difficulty: Grade I to Grade VII and above; good fitness, stamina, navigation, and avalanche assessment skills required for all routes
  • Areas covered: Northern Cairngorms (Northern Corries, Loch Avon basin, Braeriach and Cairn Toul amphitheatre, Beinn a'Bhuird); Southern Cairngorms (Lochnagar, Creag an Dubh Loch, Glen Clova); Creag Meagaidh (Coire Ardair)
  • Key centres: Aviemore and Deeside (Braemar and Ballater); outlying areas accessible from Fort William and Dundee
  • Route highlights: The Black Spout, Savage Slit, Deep-cut Chimney, Eagle Ridge, Smith's Gully
  • Navigation/mapping: Photographic topo diagrams and approach maps included for every climbing area
  • Best time to go: December to March for the most reliable conditions; mixed routes often possible from November; snow gullies into late April
  • Companion title: Winter Climbs: Ben Nevis and Glen Coe (also available from Cicerone)

Detailed overview

The Cairngorms offer some of the most reliable and accessible winter climbing in Scotland, from the accessible corries of Cairn Gorm and the towering cliffs of Shelter Stone Crag and Lochnagar to the remote recesses of Braeriach, Beinn a'Bhuird, and the magnificent Creag Meagaidh. With over 450 routes across a wide range of grades, styles, and conditions, the Cairngorms offer a winter climbing destination of extraordinary depth and quality.

Now in its seventh edition, this comprehensive Cicerone guidebook covers more than 450 winter climbs across the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh, from straightforward Grade I snow gullies suitable for those developing their winter skills to extreme Grade VII and above ice and mixed climbs for the most experienced and ambitious mountaineers. Routes are classified by area and style to help climbers choose according to weather, conditions, and ability.

Choose from more than 450 winter climbs across the Northern Cairngorms, Southern Cairngorms, and Creag Meagaidh, covering the Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm, the Loch Avon basin, Braeriach and the Cairn Toul amphitheatre, Lochnagar, Glen Clova, and the magnificent Coire Ardair at Creag Meagaidh.
Select routes suited to your grade and experience, from Grade I snow gullies and straightforward mixed routes to serious Grade VII ice and mixed climbs, with routes covering snow, ice, and mixed styles clearly identified throughout.
Navigate every climb with confidence using photographic topo diagrams and approach maps for each climbing area, alongside clear route descriptions and symbols denoting the type and character of every climb.
Prepare thoroughly for Cairngorms winter climbing with comprehensive advice on weather and conditions, types of winter climbs, avalanche assessment, navigation, equipment, ethics, logistics, and mountain rescue.
Discover the iconic route highlights of the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh, including The Black Spout, Savage Slit, Deep-cut Chimney, Eagle Ridge, and Smith's Gully, alongside hundreds of lesser-known classics across all grades.
Plan your visit with practical information on the main bases at Aviemore and Deeside, including Braemar and Ballater, with outlying areas accessible from Fort William and Dundee.


Climb the snowfields, icefalls, and mixed faces of the Cairngorms with confidence using this trusted Cicerone guidebook. From the accessible corries above Aviemore to the remote and serious cliffs of Braeriach and Creag Meagaidh, this is the essential companion for winter climbing in one of the world's great mountain ranges.

Where and when to go

Seasons

December to March are the most reliable months for winter climbing, but mixed routes are often possible in November and snow gullies into late April.

Centres

Aviemore and Deeside (Braemar and Ballater) are the main centres.

Difficulty

Winter climbing requires a good level of fitness, stamina and the ability to navigate and assess avalanche conditions. This book includes straightforward Grade I snow gullies through to extreme ice and mixed climbs of Grade VII and above.

Must See

Towering cliffs of Shelter Stone Crag, Lochnagar and Creag Meagaidh, accessible corries of Cairn Gorm and Glen Clova, remote recesses of Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird. Route highlights include The Black Spout; Savage Slit; Deep-cut Chimney; Eagle Ridge; Smith’s Gully.

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781786311252
AvailabilityPublished
Published8 November 2023
Weight 370g

Updates

Currently there are no updates for this book.

Meet the authors

Blair Fyffe grew up close to Aviemore in the shadow of the Northern Cairngorms, and has always enjoyed being in these hills, particularly during the winter months. He has made first ascents and early repeats of numerous winter routes throughout Scotland. Outside Britain he has climbed new winter routes in the Lofoten Islands of Arctic Norway and in Antarctica, and alpine routes in Kyrgyzstan. He has also climbed in the European Alps and on the big walls of Yosemite Valley. He works as a forecaster for the Scottish Avalanche Information Service during the winter months, as well as a field guide for the British Antarctic Survey.

John Lyall

John Lyall

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John Lyall has been living and climbing in the Cairngorms since leaving school, learning the craft of mountaineering here. He has climbed around the world, including in the Himalaya, Peru, Kenya, Morocco, Europe and Greenland, but is always glad to return to the endless challenges the Cairngorms provide in winter. He has made first ascent of climbs in the Scottish Highlands and around the world. He has been a member of the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team for 40 years and works as a British Mountain Guide (IFMGA), having guided in Scotland, the Himalaya, the Alps, Norway and Greenland.