Walk the Adlerweg (Eagle's Way) with a Cicerone Guidebook

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• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
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Section 1
Kaisergebirge

Stage 1
St Johann in Tirol to Gaudeamushutte

Start                  Sankt Johann in Tirol (Rummlerhof; 780m)
Finish                Gaudeamushutte (1263m)
Distance            9km
Ascent               900m
Descent             450m
Grade                 Red
Time                   4hrs 30mins (plus 45min walk-in from St Johann station)
Highest point    Baumgartenkopfl (1545m)
Maps                  AV8 (1:25,000)
                           FB301 (1:50,000)
                           K09 (1:50,000)
 

A quiet country road leads to a forest path climbing through the Niederkaiser foothills to Diebsofen cave and Schleierwasserfall, where the 60m sheer rock face behind the waterfall is popular with climbers. Emerging above the trees, you get your first close-up views of the jagged Wilderkaiser peaks. The path crosses the heads of two valleys to reach its highest point at Baumgartenkopfl, before descending steeply to Gaudeamushutte with spectacular views of Ellmauer Halt (2344m).

From St. Johann railway station (670m), go straight ahead along Bahnhofstrasse, passing the hospital L. Bear L at a roundabout, still following Bahnhofstrasse, to reach the town square, Hauptplatz, with the parish church R. Cross the square and exit far L opposite the post office. This short street leads to Kaiserstrasse where you turn R (if you turn L the tourist office is second building L). Continue along Kaiserstrasse, crossing the Kitzbuheler Ache river. Bear R at a fork (sp Hinterkaiserweg), passing the bus station R, to reach the main road at a roundabout (10mins). Note The waymarked Adlerweg starts at the Rummlerhof in Hinterkaiser, 4km from St Johann railway station. It is a straightforward walk through the town and along a quiet country road. As there is no public transport, the only alternative to walking would be to take a taxi!

Sankt Johann in Tirol, Kitzbuhel’s less well known neighbour
Situated in the Leukental valley between the Kitzbuheler Alps and the Kaisergebirge, St Johann in Tirol gets its name from a church built by Catholic missionaries before ad738 dedicated to St John the Baptist (St Johann in German). Copper and silver mines, opened in 1540, ushered in a period of prosperity that lasted until the 18th century. Indeed, in the 17th century the 780m Helig-Geist-Schacht (Holy Ghost Shaft) was the deepest mine shaft in the world. Throughout this period, St Johann remained a village, while Kitzbuhel, just 10km along the valley, prospered as a medieval city, its charter having been granted in 1271.

The coming of the railway in 1875 led to the growth of tourism. With extensive development of ski runs in the Kitzbuheler Alpen, Kitzbuhel became one of the most prominent winter sports resorts in Europe. With the Kitzbuheler Horn ski area equally accessible from both places, St Anton shared in this success, becoming a less exepensive alternative to glamorous Kitzbuhel. In 1956, St Anton was recognised as a market town and much of the commercial development since has taken place there. The latest census shows the population of the two communities to be almost the same, both having just under 9000 residents.

Cross the roundabout and leave St Johann by Hinterkaiserweg, which you follow for 3km, ignoring all side roads. The road bends L and R, sometimes quite sharply. Level at first through meadows and occasional houses, it begins to ascend gently as the trees are reached. Looking ahead you can see the Niederkaiser ridge with the bare limestone of the much higher Wilderkaiser rising beyond. Looking back there is a good view of Kitzbuheler Horn rising above St Johann. Shortly before reaching Rummlerhof, cross a cattle grid, where there is a sign L officially marking the start of the Adlerweg. Hinterkaiserweg passes Rummlerhof R (780m) (private, no accommodation, meals/refreshments, closed Monday, tel 05352 63650) (40mins).

From Rummlerhof, continue along Hinterkaiserweg for 750m, turning R to reach Maurern, where the road ends. Pass L of both barn and farmhouse on a grassy path, and start ascending through meadows towards the woods (sp Schleierwasserfall). Cross a stile and continue winding up through the trees. After a second stile, drop down L to cross a stream by a wooden bridge and join a 4wd track. Turn R and continue uphill to go straight across a forestry road at a sharp bend. At a second forestry road turn L, and after 100m R onto a smaller forestry road. When this ends, turn R uphill on a path through the trees. At a path junction, bear L and contour for 1.5km, with a short section along a cliff face where a steep drop-off has fixed cables for security, to reach Diebsofen cave (90mins).

You are now below steep cliffs with a huge open-fronted cavern eroded into them. Follow the path as it descends for a short way through the cavern. Above your head, the cavern roof is one of Europe’s most difficult ‘dry tool’ climbing pitches. Hanging from the roof you can see many pitons and karabiners left by previous visitors.

Continuing below the line of cliffs, you soon hear the sound of rushing water and a short ascent brings you to the impressive Schleierwasserfall. The water tumbles down cliffs with a 60m drop, the path running through the eroded cavern behind the falls. This is another favourite climbing location and climbers are often seen inching their way up the precarious cliffs behind and beside the falls (30mins).

From the falls, continue on the path below the cliffs (sp Gaudeamushutte) for a further 750m, then descend into a coomb. At the bottom of the coomb bear L then turn sharply R (sp Ackerlhutte) and ascend the other side to reach meadows above the cliffs. From here, the jagged peaks of Ackerlspitze (2329m) and its neighbours come into view ahead. Continue through meadows ascending in a long arc, curving round from initially heading NE and ending up heading SW, to reach the top of a ridge at Ackerlrucken.

From here, an easy walk along a grassy ridge takes you to Ackerlhutte (1455m), which can be seen R about 400m away and 100m above (OeAV, 15 beds 0b/15d, self catering, warden weekends only, AV key required at other times) (15mins)

The path descends into another grassy coomb, with the path contouring around to reach Obere Regalm pasture hut (1313m) (private, no accommodation, meals/refreshments, open Wednesday/Saturday/Sunday, 1000–1700, tel 06641 309164) (1hr).

Leave by a faint path ascending through meadows behind the refuge (sp Gaudeamushutte), following waymarks painted on occasional rocks. Turn sharp R and continue ascending NW through a coomb to reach a junction with a path coming directly from Ackerlhutte. Turn L and contour to reach the day’s high point (1545m) below Baumgartenkopfl, with a summit cross above the path L (45mins). OeAV and Kompass both wrongly show the Adlerweg ascending W out of the coomb through dwarf conifers, to head directly to Baumgartenkopfl.

Descend slowly on a path winding through dwarf conifers past Freiberghaus, where a magnificent view appears. On a ridge across the valley is Gruttenhutte, and towering above it the spires and peaks of Ellmauer Halt (2344m), the highest point in the Kaisergebirge. Descend steeply into the valley zigzagging through the trees, before bearing L to reach Gaudeamushutte (1263m) (DAV, 54 beds 30b/24d, meals/refreshments, mid-May to mid-October, tel 05358 2262) (40mins).