Walk the Tour of Mont Blanc with a Cicerone guidebook

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STAGE 2
Les Contamines – Col de la Croix du Bonhomme – Les Chapieux

Distance    18km or 20km via Col des Fours to Ref. des Mottets
Time    7–7½hrs or 7½–8hrs via Col des Fours variante
Start altitude     1167m
High point    Col de la Croix du Bonhomme 2483m or Col des Fours 2665m
Height gain    1316m (or 1579m)
Height loss    929m (or 876m)
Accommodation    Pontet (40mins) – gîte d’étape, camping
Nant-Borrant (1½hrs) – chalet/gîte
La Balme (2½hrs) – chalet/gîte
Col de la Croix (5–5½hrs) – CAF refuge
Les Chapieux – auberge /refuge, camping
Les Mottets (7½–8hrs) – refuge (Col des Fours option)
Transport option    Bus (Les Contamines – Notre-Dame de la Gorge)
Alternative route    Col de la Croix du Bonhomme – Col des Fours – Ref. des
Mottets (see below)

On this stage the TMB goes right to the head of Val Montjoie and crosses over into the Vallée des Glaciers by way of Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. Although more challenging than Stage 1 (via Bionnassay), it does not equal the high-route alternative first stage in physical demands, but it’s a reasonably tough crossing nonetheless. Early in the season snow will no doubt remain in patches between the two cols, in which case special care will need to be taken. Just below the highest of these the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme commands a splendid position and makes a good alternative overnight option, although Les Chapieux has a relaxing atmosphere on a bend in the Vallée des Glaciers, but without any noteworthy views.

On arrival at Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, a TMB variante ignores the descent to Les Chapieux and rises to the barren Col des Fours before descending to the valley at Ville des Glaciers, an hour or so upvalley beyond Les Chapieux. Walkers taking this option will probably choose to continue to Refuge des Mottets for accommodation. Under good snow-free conditions the Col des Fours route makes a worthy alternative to the standard crossing, but early in the season, or in inclement weather or poor visibility, the main route to Les Chapieux should be taken. Both options are described.

South of Les Contamines cross the river on a footbridge by the first road bridge after leaving the main village, then follow the river upstream for about 10mins. For accommodation at the comfortable Chalet-Hotel La Chemenaz (Tel 04 50 47 02 44), turn right; the hotel is about 2mins walk away. Cross to the left side and resume on a tree-lined path which soon swings left to bring you parallel with the road. When the road makes a sharp right-hand turn to cross the river, walk ahead on a good broad and level path, soon passing a water supply. A little later note a small lake on the right, with a bar/restaurant on its shore. Camping Le Pontet and its gîte (see details at the end of the previous stage) are not far from here. About 45mins from Les Contamines reach a junction of paths near the pilgrimage chapel of Notre-Dame de la Gorge (6) (1210m). Should you need refreshment, there’s a café-restaurant next to the chapel.

The TMB path now rises directly ahead up the steep left-hand side of a wooded ravine on Roman-laid slabs, passing a rock arch (Pont Naturel) to the right, then easing to cross the hump-backed Pont de la Téna about 10mins before coming to the Relais le Sollié (refreshments) and, shortly after, an attractive chalet-style building in a neat garden on the right:

REFUGE NANT BORRANT (1460m, 1½hrs) accommodation, refreshments; 35 dortoir places; open early June to late Sept (Tel 04 50 47 03 57; refugenantborr-ant@free.fr).

At this point you enter the Réserve Naturelle des Contamines-Montjoie (7). Here you cross a stream, rise a little further and, 10mins from Nant Borrant the way forks. A sign here indicates that overnight camping is permitted 100m down to the left; a very pleasant site just above the river. The TMB continues along the right branch, easing into a stretch of open meadowland with the shapely Aiguilles de la Pennaz ahead. Near the far end of this level stretch there’s a water supply on the left of the track. About 20mins beyond this, having climbed again, a sign indicates another Emplacement de Bivouac (overnight campsite) 100m to the right. By the main track note another water supply and a small public toilet block, just above which you will come to the

REFUGE DE LA BALME (1706m, 2¼hrs) accommodation, refreshments; 48 dortoir places, 14 beds; open mid-June to mid-Sept (Tel 04 50 47 03 54).

The jeep track loops up the hillside, but about 2mins beyond La Balme a footpath breaks away on the left and ascends steeply over rough ground with stony zigzags for 30mins or so until reaching a bluff with an electricity pylon. About 5mins beyond the pylon the way forks. Both routes merge a little higher across a basin running with streams – the right-hand path, which crosses a stream or two, can be rather marshy at times, but it also leads through a veritable flower garden in the early summer. This basin is known as the Plan Jovet, and off to the left a cascade can be seen pouring from a hanging valley that contains the two Lacs Jovet – a picturesque spot. Ignoring this the TMB climbs through a narrow rocky section to the Plan des Dames, marked by a huge pile of stones said to be on the spot where an English woman perished in a storm. Tossing a stone onto the pile is something of a ritual – as it is in mountain country throughout the world.

Col du Bonhomme is clearly visible almost 300m above, and large patches of snow often lie across the slopes leading to it. Across the Plan des Dames the path takes the right-hand side of the valley, and, as height is gained, so the way breaks into several strands rising across shaly slopes to converge on the saddle of Col du Bonhomme (2329m, 4½hrs), where there’s a small wooden shelter. In good conditions this is a charming place; a broad saddle between the Rocher du Bonhomme and Bancs de la Pennaz, with long views down through the Val Montjoie to the north, and Vallon de la Gittaz in the Beaufortain district to the southwest. A path drops into this latter valley, brightened by the Lac de la Gittaz and much more extensive Lac de Roselend, while our path still has more height to gain.

Bear left along the saddle and begin rising once more into a wilder, more stony region of scree and rocks and, quite possibly, a few late-lying snow patches. In misty conditions this can seem an eerie place, but on a good day the route is one to enjoy, with anticipation of the next pass luring you on as views grow in extent. Minor streams drain across the path, and about 45mins from Col du Bonhomme you come to the large cairn which marks the summit of Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2483m, 5–5¼hrs). Before you the hillside folds down to the hinted Vallée des Glaciers, while mountains, ridges and other valleys of Beaufortain provide a very different landscape to that which you’ve left behind. To the south Mont Pourri dominates.

Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme lies just 50m and 5mins below on the south side of the ridge, but before descending to it, a decision must be made as to the continuing route, options being:

• via Col des Fours to Refuge des Mottets (see box, below), or
• the standard TMB route to Les Chapieux via Refuge de la Croix (see p56).

The first option is a little longer than the standard route, but as it reduces Stage 3 by about 1½hrs, and avoids a stretch of road-walking, it might be preferred. However, Col des Fours should not be attempted if much snow is lying, nor if there’s any threat of bad weather or poor visibility. The second option is a fine route in any case, but one also has the possibility of spending the night at Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, and making a decision as to the continuing route next day.

Main route to Les Chapieux

From Col de la Croix du Bonhomme it is only a 5min walk down to the refuge, yet the building cannot be seen from the col. Unless snow has obscured it the path, which descends southward, is easy to follow and soon brings you to

REFUGE DE LA CROIX DU BONHOMME (9) (2443m, 5–5¼hrs) accommodation, refreshments; 113 dortoir places; manned mid-June to mid-Sept; (Tel 04 79 07 05 28; refuge.bonhomme@free.fr).

A rather curious-looking building, it enjoys a commanding position, and the view from it, whilst not containing any dramatic mountains, is charming – especially in the soft light of evening.

The path veers left at the refuge to negotiate a series of grassy bluffs and streams before descending fairly steeply to the south on the way to the Chalets de Plan Varraro (alp buildings) at 2006m. Passing these to your left the path drops steeply once more to another group of buildings, the Chalets de la Raja (1789m, 6½hrs), where you bear right, cross a bridge and come onto a stony jeep track. Follow this round the hillside to the left until coming to a junction where you take the lower option (sign to Ref. la Nova). Keep alert for a footpath that drops through pastures on the left, and brings you to the hamlet of Les Chapieux on a bend in the Vallée des Glaciers (10), directly opposite the Auberge de la Nova.

TMB variante: Col des Fours  Refuge des Mottets

Bear left at Col de la Croix and go up the ridge crest to an electricity pylon. Beyond this the way cuts along the left (west) flank of Tête Sud des Fours to gain the bare saddle of Col des Fours (2665m, 5¾hrs), about 35mins from Col de la Croix. Along with the Fenêtre d’Arpette (Alt. Stage 8), this is the highest point reached on the TMB, and from it Mont Blanc can be seen to the northeast beyond the Aiguille des Glaciers, a shining dome of snow and ice. Should you have sufficient time and energy, it’s worth continuing as far as the 2756m summit of Tête Nord des Fours (8), where the 360° panorama is magnificent. (Allow 40mins for the round trip from Col des Fours.)

Cross the col and descend southeastwards on steep slopes of shale and, possibly, snow patches towards the basin of Plan des Fours. After losing about 250m of height, veer left when the path forks, cross a stream that drops through a gully, and then descend steeply alongside, then across, the Tufs stream and over pastures to the deserted alp buildings of Les Tufs (1993m), about 1–1¼hrs from Col des Fours. Here you join a farm road and wander down it to more farm buildings that go by the grand name of La Ville des Glaciers (1789m, 7½hrs). (Note the public toilets in the small car park.) Cross the road and go down to the Torrent des Glaciers on a track which crosses the river and rises gently to the atmospheric converted dairy farm of Refuge des Mottets (1870m, 8hrs, accommodation, refreshments; 50 places; open mid-June to mid-Sept; ( 04 79 07 01 70; bonjour@hotel-autantic.fr).

LES CHAPIEUX (1554m, 7–7½hrs) accommodation, refreshments in Auberge de la Nova, 35 dortoir places, 35 beds; open May to end Oct; (Tel 04 79 89 07 15; info@refugelanova.com); limited places plus refreshments in Le Montagnard (Tel 04 79 89 06 91); camping permitted in meadows below the hamlet – public toilet block next to a seasonal tourist office; small grocery.

No longer A ‘wretched little hamlet‘

When AW Moore and his guide, Christian Almer, came to Les Chapieux in July 1864 on their way from Bourg St Maurice to the Pavillon Bellevue above Col de Voza (an epic walk of 10½hrs), Moore was unimpressed, calling it a ‘wretched little hamlet’. It was 8.40 in the morning, and the two men, in need of refreshment, went into the ‘larger of the two little inns [which] has a bad reputation, and, according to our experience, deservedly so. I ordered an omelette and a bottle of red wine,’ said Moore, ‘and in lieu of the latter was furnished with a chopine of what was perfect vinegar, of the sourest and most undrinkable character, which not even a copious mixture of water could make palatable, much less wholesome. The charge was extortionate, and at 9.15 we departed, congratulating ourselves that we were not compelled to make a long halt in such a den of thieves, the situation of which is most dreary and devoid of interest.’ (The Alps in 1864)

Happily, the experience of TMB walkers in Les Chapieux today is unlikely to mirror that of the unfortunate AW Moore.