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Walking in Scotland's Far North - A Walker's guidebook - a Cicerone guidebook

Cover of Walking in Scotland's Far North
2 Feb 2017
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.0cm
No. Maps
No. Photos
1st Published
1 Jul 2003
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Walking in Scotland's Far North

by Andy Walmsley
Book published by Cicerone Press

The 62 mountain walks in this guidebook cover Scotland's north-west peninsula, north of Ullapool. Mainly day walks, taking in peaks such as Suilven, Quinag, Morven and Scaraben, with three longer mountain traverses (Assynt Horseshoe, a Raey traverse and a long ascent of Cranstackie).

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The old counties of Ross and Cromarty, Sutherland, and Caithness, forming Scotland's north west peninsula, contain some of the country's most spectacular scenery, and boast many of the most shapely and challenging hills in the British Isles. Stack Polly, Suilven, and Ben Loyal have been favourite postcard peaks for generations, and many visitors come to the far north just to enjoy the unique scenery with its knobbly gneiss moors, jutting peaks, rugged coastline and unspoilt villages.

For these visitors, the far north provides almost endless possibilities. Attractions include boat trips to interesting offshore islands with impressive sea cliffs and colonies of sea birds, fascinating antiquities tracing Scotland's history from stone-age man to the shameful clearances, and a number of low-level scenic attractions such as Britain's highest waterfall and some of the best beaches in the UK.

For the more adventurous visitor, the hills offer a wealth of challenging and enjoyable outings, from simple half-day walks to demanding multi-day expeditions, and all in the most wild and lonely terrain that Scotland has to offer.

This guide, selectively covering the whole northern peninsula from Ullapool northwards, will be a valuable aid for any visitor to the area, giving information on camping and accommodation, road access, local bases, topography and climate, as well as 62 walking routes varying in length from 3km to 56km.

  • Seasons
    Year-round walking, as the area is warmed by the Gulf Stream, and snow rarely lingers for long. Driest months are May, June, September and October. Warnest in July and August, but full of midges!
  • Centres
    Ullapool, Lochinver, Kylesku, Scourie, Kinlochbervie. Otherwise various small scattered villages offering accommodation and basic amenities.
  • Difficulty
    Routes are not graded, but are all within the reach of a reasonably fit walker.
  • Must See
    It’s all beautiful! Provided the weather allows you to see it. Tiny welcoming villages. Remote mountain scenery, rugged coastline and perfect sandy beaches.


August 2012

Route 28 (Page 80)

A new path, built by the John Muir Trust, now aids the eastern approach to Spidean Coinich. Follow the path heading towards Lochan Bealach a Chornaidh to pick up the new path, which climbs south-west onto Spidean’s south-east ridge.

Route 57 (Page 131)

On the descent of Spidean Coinich via the south-east ridge, look out for the new path, built by the John Muir Trust on the lower slopes, which heads north-east to join the path coming from the Bealach a Chornaidh, giving a more comfortable descent and avoiding an area of eroding peat.


For more information, see


Plants, Birds and Animals
Getting There
Roads within the Area
Using the Guide
Essential Equipment
Mountain Bikes
Gaelic and Norse Place-names
Assynt and Coigach
Ben Mor Coigach, 743m (2438ft)
Route 1 Ascent of Ben Mor Coigach from Acheninver youth hostel
Route 2 Ascent of Ben Mor Coigach from the Achiltibuie road
Cul Beag, 769m (2523ft)
Route 3 Ascent of Cul Beag from Drumrunie
Route 4 Ascent of Cul Beag from Linneraineach
Route 5 Cul Beag to Stac Pollaidh link route
Stac Pollaidh (Stack Polly), 613m (2011ft)
Route 6 Ascent to Stac Pollaidh's main col from Loch Lurgainn
Route 7 Traverse of Stac Pollaidh's summit ridge
Cul Mor, 849m (2785ft)
Route 8 Ascent of Cul Mor from Knockanrock
Route 9 Ascent of Cul Mor from the A835 via An Laogh
Route 10 Ascent of Cul Mor from Linneraineach via south-west face
Route 11 Cul Mor to Cul Beag link route
Suilven, 731m (2398ft)
Route 12 Suilven approach from Elphin
Route 13 Suilven approach from Lochinver
Route 14 Suilven ascent from the north-east
Route 15 Suilven ascent from Inverkirkaig
Route 16 Suilven approach from Little Assynt
Route 17 Traverse of the Suilven summit ridge
Canisp, 846m (2776ft)
Route 18 Canisp ascent from Little Assynt
Route 19 Canisp ascent from Loch Awe
Route 20 Canisp to Suilven link route
Breabag, 800m (2625ft)
Route 21 Breabag ascent from Benmore Lodge
Route 22 Breabag ascent from Allt nan Uamh
Route 23 Breabag to Conival link route
Ben More Assynt, 998m (3274ft), and Conival, 984m (3228ft)
Route 24 Ben More Assynt and Conival ascent from Inchnadamph
Route 25 The Oykell Horseshoe from Kinlochailsh
Glas Bheinn, 776m (2546ft), and Beinn Uidhe, 740m (2428ft)
Route 26 Glas Bheinn and Beinn Uidhe ascent from Loch na Gainmhich
Route 27 Beinn Uidhe to Conival/Ben More Assynt link route
Quinag, 808m (2651ft)
Route 28 Ascent of Quinag from the east
Route 29 Ascents of Quinag from the north
Route 30 Ascent of Quinag from Tumore
Route 31 Quinag to Glas Bheinn link route
Bein Leoid, 792m (2598ft), and Meallan A Chuail, 750m (2461ft)
Route 32 Ascent of Meallan a Chuail and Beinn Leoid from Kinloch, Loch More
Route 33 Ascent of Beinn Leoid from Kylestrome via Glen Dubh
Route 34 Ascent of Beinn Leoid and Meallan a Chuail from Loch na Gainmhich via Eas a Chuall Aluinn
Route 35 Beinn Leoid to Beinn Uidhe link route
The Far northwest and Reay Forest
Ben Stack, 721m (2365ft)
Route 36 Ascent of Ben Stack from near Lochstack Lodge
Ben Hee, 873m (2864ft)
Route 37 Ascent of Ben Hee from West Merkland
Meallan Liath Coire Mhic Dhughaill, 801m (2628ft)
Route 38 Ascent of Meallan Liath from Achfary via Lone
Route 39 Ascent Meallan Liath from Aultanrynie
Route 40 Meallan Liath to Sabhal Beag link route
Meall Horn (Meall a Chuirn) and The Sabhals
Route 41 Ascent of Meall Horn and The Sabhals from Achfary via Lone
Route 42 Direct ascent of Meall Horn from Lone
Route 43 Meall Horn/Creagan Meall Horn col to Arkle link route
Route 44 Meall Horn/Creagan Meall Horn col to Foinaven link route
Arkle (Arcuil), 787m (2582ft)
Route 45 Ascent of Arkle from Achfary
Routes 46 and 47 Link routes from Arkle to Foinaven and Meall Horn
Foinaven (Fionne Bheinn), 914m (2999ft)
Route 48 Ascent of Foinaven from the north-west
Cranstackie, 800m (2625ft), and Beinn Spionnaidh, 713m (2536ft)
Route 49 Beinn Spionnaidh and Cranstackie from Carbreck
Ben Hope, 927m (3040ft)
Route 50 Ascent of Ben Hope from Strath More
The East
Ben Loyal, 764m (2506ft)
Route 51 Ascent of Ben Loyal from Ribigill
Beinn Stumanadh, 527m (1729ft), and its Outliers
Route 52 Ascent of Beinn Stumanadh from Loch Loyal
Ben Klibreck, 961m (3153ft)
Route 53 Ascent of Ben Klibreck from Vagastie
Route 54 Ascent of Ben Klibreck from Altnaharra
Route 55 The full traverse of Kilbreck ridge from Crask Inn
Morven, 706m (2316ft), and Scaraben, 626m (2053ft)
Route 56 Ascent of Morven from Braemore
Longer Mountain Traverses
Route 57 The Assynt Horseshoe
Route 58 A Reay traverse
Route 59 A long ascent of Cranstackie
Interesting Low-Level Walks
Route 60 Eas a Chual Aluinn
Route 61 The Culnacraig coastal path
Route 62 To Sandwood Bay and Cape Wrath
Appendix A Sources of information
Appendix B The peaks (by height)
Appendix C The peaks (alphabetically)
Appendix D List of walking routes
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