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Walk the Northern Caminos with a Cicerone guidebook - Sample Route

Cover of The Northern Caminos
Availability
Reprinted
Published
2 Aug 2017
ISBN
9781852847944
Edition
Second
Size
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.8cm
Weight
350g
Pages
320
1st Published
19 Jan 2015
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The Northern Caminos

The Caminos Norte, Primitivo and Inglés

by Dave Whitson, Laura Perazzoli
Book published by Cicerone Press

Guidebook to the Camino del Norte (Northern Caminos) pilgrim route through northern Spain to the sacred city of Santiago de Compostela. Includes stage-by-stage descriptions to the Camino del Norte (800km), Camino Primitivo, Camino Ingles (116km route) and the Camino de Finisterre, and provides advice, information on pilgrim hostels and more.

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Description

This guidebook is a meticulously detailed yet handy companion to walking the pilgrimage routes that lead through northern Spain to the sacred city of Santiago de Compostela, with stage-by-stage descriptions to four routes: the Camino del Norte, the Camino Primitivo, the Camino Inglés and the Camino de Finisterre.

Santiago de Compostela, whose cathedral houses the relics of Saint James, was one of the three major centres of Catholic pilgrimage in the Middle Ages, along with Rome and Jerusalem. There was no single route to Santiago; the trail began at one's doorstep. But as pilgrims approached Spain, many converged on a handful of particularly popular routes, known historically as the Caminos de Santiago, or Way of St James.

The Camino del Norte is an 817km five-week coastal route from the town of Irun, near the French border. This route follows relatively flat terrain through quiet coastal villages. It is the most heavily frequented of the Northern Caminos, attracting two or three times as many pilgrims as the Primitivo.

One alternative is the Camino Primitivo, which splits off from the Norte at Sebrayo, near Oviedo, for the next 355km. This route cuts inland through the Cordillera Cantabrica and includes some significant ascents and descents. 

The second alternative is the Camino Ingles, a five-day 116km-route from the city of Ferrol on the north-west coast. A much shorter route, this camino is still long enough to meet the requirements of the Compostela – that the last 100km of your pilgrimage to Santiago is completed on foot. 

For many modern pilgrims, the walk does not end in Santiago de Compostela. Instead, they are drawn still father to the west, as far as the land will permit. They walk the Camino Finisterre, a three-day extension route from Santiago to the west coast.

Although the Camino Francés is often referred to as the Camino de Santiago, it is actually, along with these Northern Caminos, part of a network of routes. As the Francés is so popular, however, the Northern Caminos offer ideal conditions. They are popular enough to offer sufficient facilities, clear waymarking and a community of pilgrims, while plentiful cheap accommodation along the way means no need to race for a bed.

  • detailed colour maps and stage-by-stage route description
  • plenty of advice including recommended gear and information on every pilgrim hostel
  • an extensive glossary of key words in English, Spanish and Euskera
  • descriptions of the many historic shrines, churches, towns and cities visited
  • Activities
    long-distance trekking, Pilgrimage 'Camino' route
  • Seasons
    summers are ideal, for access to facilities and sunny weather, but the routes are navigable year-round
  • Centres
    Major cities include San Sebastián, Bilbao, Santander, Oviedo, Gijón, Lugo, and Santiago de Compostela.
  • Difficulty
    the first week of the Camino del Norte (Irún-Santiago) and the first week of the Camino Primitivo (Oviedo-Lugo) are strenuous but feasible for people of most abilities; beyond those two stretches, the Northern Caminos are accessible to all walkers
  • Must See
    Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, famous cities (San Sebastián, Bilbao, Oviedo, Lugo), medieval villages (Santillana del Mar), sandy beaches, good hiking

Nov 2017


Camino del Norte Baggage Transfer :

Jose Luis Pardo Rodríguez no longer offers baggage transfer services on the Camino del Norte. Instead, your best bet is now the service offered by Correos (the Spanish post office). +34 683440022

Camino del Norte, Stage 12:

New albergue in Santillana del Mar: Albergue El Convento (36 beds, 12-16€, open all year, breakfast available, @, 680 594 138) (109)

Camino del Norte, Stage 15:

A reader reports on a route change: "From Andrin , the official yellow arrows now follow the coastal variant, but somewhat different from the book, making the guidebook's explanations highly confusing" (124)

Camino del Norte, Stage 16:

A reader recommends Hotel Gavitu in Celorio, particularly outside of peak season when options decline considerably

Camino del Norte, Stage 17:

A reader suggests Hotel Las Vegas in Colunga (singles 28-35€, doubles 35-55€, 985 856 025) and notes that Hostal El Mesón is currently closed and "looks awful" (136)
 

Sept 2017

page 129

Norte, Stage 16: Casa Belén in Cuerres will be closed in 2018, while the owners take a sabbatical.

 

Norte, Stage 23 - New albergue in Navia: Albergue San Roque (10€, 24 beds, open March 1 - November 30, Kitchen, W/D, wifi, Avda Manuel Suárez 3 bajo, 691 904 242) (166)

Norte, Stage 27 - New albergue in Abadín: Albergue Xabarín (15€, 25 beds, Kitchen, W/D, wifi, 690 181 811) (183)

Norte, Stage 27 - New albergue in Vilalba: Albergue As Pedreiras (10€, 28 beds, Kitchen, W/D, wifi, open all year, 620 137 711) (187)

Camino Inglés

Stage 3: Reader Andrew shares that in summer 2017 the route changed in part towards the end of this section. He writes, "the path after Leiro is very different and does not include a stop by Bar Julia. The final stages are probably the same but the route did look new, the way markers were quite pristine. I used an app to log the route and the new one takes you through Leiro on the DP - 0150. It then takes you off the road and onto a wide dirt track uphill for several miles. It takes you past the Encoro de Beche. This is a reservoir. It has toilets and a camping area. You then get back onto the road and route takes you under AP9. You follow the road and then go off onto a path through woods to Vao. You then go across countryside which is mostly heathland and some woods. This takes you eventually to a side road and onto AC542. Here you find the Bar Casa Avelina on Avenida Travesas in Veira.

"You then walk down the AC 542 alongside an electricity plant. You then turn left opposite the road to the Castro das Travesas Hill fort. You go down the track past a chicken farm. This conforms to your instruction "After 400m, near farm buildings, turn right..." etc. This gets you to Brumas."

Stage 4: Reader Andrew also shares news on a route change entering Santiago: "It diverges at the Hotel Castro. The route takes you through some woods at the back of the hotel (the hotel has an honesty bar for pilgrims). It then takes you parallel to the Estrata Porrino Redondela. On the other side of the road is a wood processing factory which is huge. You then walk through the back of an industrial estate, past a large cemetry and into the suburbs of Santiago. The route takes you into Parque de Fermin Bouza Brey and along Avenida de Xoan XX111. We lost the route in terms of way markers but were so close that it did not matter."



Camino del Norte, Stage 25: Vilela's Albergue de Peregrinos is no longer open year-round. Instead, its opening season is less clear, as it operates now primarily as an over-flow space for Ribadeo's small albergue, primarily in the summer. Before leaving Ribadeo, make sure to confirm that Vilela's albergue is operational.

 

The Authors are putting update for this guide straight onto their own website. They can be found at;

http://northerncaminos.com/updates.html

 

Contents

CONTENTS
Introduction
The story of St James
The Northern Caminos: yesterday and today
Along the routes: different cultures
Choosing your camino
When to go
Preparation and planning
Being a pilgrim
Getting there and back
Equipment
Accommodation
Food
Postal services
Telephones
Other local facilities
Waymarking, route-planning and maps
Using this guide
The Camino del Norte
Stage 1 Irún to San Sebastián
Stage 2 San Sebastián to Zarautz
Stage 3 Zarautz to Deba
Stage 4 Deba to Markina-Xemein
Stage 5 Markina-Xemein to Gernika
Stage 6 Gernika to Bilbao
Stage 7 Bilbao to Pobeña
Stage 8 Pobeña to Castro-Urdiales
Stage 9 Castro-Urdiales to Laredo
Stage 10 Laredo to Guemes
Stage 11 Guemes to Santander
Stage 12 Santander to Santillana del Mar
Stage 13 Santillana del Mar to Comillas
Stage 14 Comillas to Colombres
Stage 15 Colombres to Llanes
Stage 16 Llanes to Ribadesella
Stage 17 Ribadesella to Sebrayo
Stage 18 Sebrayo to Gijón
Stage 19 Gijón to Avilés
Stage 20 Avilés to Soto de Luiña
Stage 21 Soto de Luiña to Cadavedo
Stage 22 Cadavedo to Luarca
Stage 23 Luarca to La Caridad
Stage 24 La Caridad to Ribadeo
Stage 25 Ribadeo to Lourenzá
Stage 26 Lourenzá to Gontán
Stage 27 Gontán to Baamonde
Stage 28 Baamonde to Miraz
Stage 29 Miraz to Sobrado dos Monxes
Stage 30 Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzúa
Stage 31 Arzúa to Santiago de Compostela
The Camino Primitivo
Stage 1 Sebrayo to Pola de Siero
Stage 2 Pola de Siero to Oviedo
Stage 3 Oviedo to San Juan de Villapañada
Stage 4 San Juan de Villapañada to Bodenaya
Stage 5 Bodenaya to Campiello
Stage 6 Campiello to Berducedo
Stage 7 Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
Stage 8 Grandas de Salime to Padrón
Stage 9 Padrón to Cádavo Baleira
Stage 10 Cádavo Baleira to Lugo
Stage 11 Lugo to As Seixas
Stage 12 As Seixas to Arzúa
Primitivo–Norte link: Oviedo to Avilés
The Camino Inglés
Stage 1 Ferrol to Pontedeume
Stage 2 Pontedeume to Betanzos
Stage 3 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma
Stage 4 Hospital de Bruma to Santiago de Compostela
Alternative start: A Coruña to Hospital de Bruma
The Camino Finisterre
Stage 1 Santiago de Compostela to Negreira
Stage 2 Negreira to Olveiroa
Stage 3 Olveiroa to Finisterre
 
Appendix A Route summary tables
Appendix B English–Spanish–Euskera glossary
Appendix C Suggestions for further reading
Appendix D Useful sources of information
Appendix E Index of principal place names

Sample Route

STAGE 1
Irún to San Sebastián
StartIrún RENFE station
FinishAlbergue La Sirena, San Sebastián
Distance26.5km
Total ascent710m
Total descent720m
Difficultyterrain: 5; waymarking: 3
Albergues de PeregrinosIrún, Pasajes de San Juan/Pasaia Donibane, San Sebastián

The Camino del Norte’s first stage may also be its most spectacular, offering incredible views of both land and sea. From Irún, there is a walk through a wetland park before the route climbs to the Guadalupe Sanctuary. From there, pilgrims are advised to take the high-level route, which follows a ridgeline high above the Bay of Biscay, passing Neolithic dolmens, medieval towers, and castle ruins before descending to Pasajes de San Juan. A small passenger boat shuttles you across the port. More uphill awaits, leading over another ridge before ultimately – and impressively – San Sebastián appears below.

Irún

All facilities; RENFE station. Albergue de Peregrinos at Calle Lucas de Berroa 18-1 (donativo, 48 beds, kitchen, breakfast, opens 1600 April–September, credenciáles). Many other accommodation options, including Albergue Juvenil Martindozenea (17.30–22.30€, includes breakfast, other meals available, kitchen, @, Avda Elizaxto 18, 943 621 042), Pensión Bowling (singles 30–50€, doubles 40–60€, Calle Mourlane Michelena 2, 943 611 452), Pensión Los Fronterizos (singles 30–35€, doubles 40–55€, Geltoki Kalea 7, 943 619 205).

The Camino del Norte’s starting point, Irún, lies across Río Bidasoa from French Hendaye. As a border town, it has been a frequent site of diplomatic wrangling. Franco and Hitler met across the river at Hendaye rail station. In exchange for Spanish support, Franco demanded significant territorial promises, none of which Hitler was willing to concede. Hitler was bored by the talkative general and skeptical of Spanish military capability; Spain thus remained neutral throughout World War II. However, the dissolution of Franco and Hitler’s relationship came too late for Irún, which had seen its historic core obliterated by German bombers (at Franco’s behest) during the Spanish Civil War. Because of this, most of Irún today is modern.

From the train/bus station, where the yellow arrows begin, follow Lope de Irigoyen for 400m. Turn left on Calle Lucas de Berroa and keep straight on for 200m. Albergue on the left at 18-1.

Take soft right on the main road, Hondarribia Karrika. Keep straight on through a roundabout. After 600m, turn left onto a single-lane road, leading into a park. Turn right on a footpath after 1.7km. Leaving the park, turn left on a road and then fork right. Turn left at a T-junction and then fork left. After 1.3km, fork right onto a gravel road. Fork left for the Aterpetxea Goikoerrota (private albergue), 17–19€, includes breakfast, 943 643 884. Proceed 600m to

Santuario de Guadalupe (4.8km)

Bar behind church. Fountain water is not potable.

This small 16th-century church offers sweeping views of the Bidasoa valley. When nearby Hondarribia was besieged in 1638, the Virgin of Guadalupe supposedly protected the town for 69 days. Every 8 September, the townsfolk visit this sanctuary to commemorate her.

Throughout the rest of this stage, camino-specific yellow arrows and GR-specific red/white stripes frequently overlap, sometimes following the same trails and at other times splitting. Both lead to San Sebastián; the GR is often more spectacular and, not coincidentally, longer.

Turn left uphill on a dirt road. After 200m, the camino splits, with a sign informing ‘Alpinist pilgrims’ to keep straight on, and all other pilgrims to turn left. The low-level alternative is described below.

For the recommended route, keep straight on, up a very steep ascent, following red-and-white stripes along a footpath. While the route is certainly challenging, this brutal first climb is not representative of the more undulating walk that follows. After 1km, reach the first of Mount Jaizkibel’s five (formerly six) towers, built during the 19th-century Carlist Wars. Proceed along the ridge, passing additional towers and an ancient dolmen. After 3.3km, reach the ruined Fort of San Enrique atop the mountain. Descend through brambles and pine trees, then join the GI-3440 highway after 4.1km.

Low-level variant

For an easier walk, turn left when the route splits after Santuario de Guadalupe onto the dirt road. Keep straight on, with views of the Spanish interior and frequent tree cover, for 5.1km. Turn right and proceed for 4.2km, ignoring the marked left to Leto. After 1km, join the GI-3440 (and the higher route). This route is 600m longer than the high-level option.

The descent to Pasajes

From the GI-3440, fork left onto a single-lane road. After 2.7km, descend steps into Pasajes. Arrows provide an alternative approach towards the albergue.

Pasajes de San Juan/Pasaia Donibane (11.3km)

Bars, restaurants, pharmacy. Albergue de Peregrinos Santa Ana (donativo, 14 beds, opens 1600 March 28–October 11 (in 2015), 618 939 666), Lodging Txintxorro (double 36€, Lezobidea 2, 943 510 083).

Originally two towns, Pasajes and San Juan were founded between 1180 and 1203, and unified in the 19th century. A prominent port for centuries, Pasajes hosted the Spanish naval fleet, the Escuadra Cantabrica, for 400 years and built part of the Spanish Armada. Victor Hugo lived in house #59, near the plaza. The 15th-century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista features a Baroque retablo and the image of Santa Faustina Martir, a gift from Pope Leon XII.

Soon after Bar Itxasondo, take the small pedestrian ferry across the port (60c/person). On the other side, the camino splits again. The recommended route turns right, following the promenade to the coast. Turn left and ascend steep steps to the old lighthouse. Take a footpath until turning right onto Faro Pasealekua. Alternatively, it is possible to turn left from the dock, following San Pedro Kalea through town. Turn right up stairs, pass the cemetery, and join Faro Pasealekua, intersecting the other route later. The distances of these two options are roughly equivalent.

At 2.6km from Pasajes, turn left onto a footpath and proceed 1.6km. Then, the route splits again. Turn left to follow the yellow arrows on a direct approach (or fork right with the red-and-white waymarks to hug the coastline). Staying with the yellow arrows, turn right after 1.1km into a parking lot, cross it, and veer right onto a footpath. Proceed 1.4km to San Sebastián’s outskirts. Join Calle Zemoria and descend the steps. Turn right on Calle Nafarroa, and then left along the beach promenade. After 800m, cross the Puente de Zurriola and keep straight on for 600m across the peninsula. Rejoin the promenade and proceed 1.8km. Near the end, turn left on Calle Satrustegi, then fork left on Paseo de Igeldo. Keep straight on for 300m to the Albergue La Sirena in

San Sebastián/Donostia (10.2km)

All facilities, RENFE and EuskoTren stations, Central Bus Station located on Pio XII Square, small airport near Hondarribia. Seasonal Albergue de Peregrinos (donativo, 50 beds, opens 1600, July–August only, credenciáles, Calle Escolta Real 12, 943 427 281), Albergue Juvenil La Sirena (13.50–19.80€, kitchen, breakfast, @, W/D, Paseo de Igeldo 25, 943 310 268), Albergue Juvenil Ulia, located on the route before the descent into San Sebastián (54 beds, 13.50–16.80€, kitchen, meals available, @, W/D, 943 483 480), Kaixo Backpackers Hostel (singles 30–70€, dorms 30–42€, kitchen, @, c/San Juan 9), Pensión Loinaz (singles/doubles 50–80€, triples 75–105€, quads 90–120€, W/D, @, Calle San Lorenzo 17, 943 426 714), Roger’s House (18–20€ low season, 40€ July–November, c/Juan de Bilbao 13, 943 433 856). Many other accommodation options, but book in advance. Internet access possible at Harkochat (c/Fermín Calbetón 36–44) and Puerto Internet Locutorio (c/del Puerto 13).

This is one of Europe’s most stunning beach cities. Probably founded by Basques, it later hosted a Roman fort and a monastery before becoming a Navarrese military stronghold. Frequent conflicts between France and Spain left a mark on San Sebastián. The most serious threat came in the Peninsular War, when Napoleon’s forces took the town and the Duke of Wellington besieged it for two and a half months. The British finally broke through and celebrated by looting the town for a week. Ultimately, only two churches and 35 houses escaped this clash; the population was halved. San Sebastián has been burned to the ground a dozen times over its history, and thus most buildings date from the 19th century. The oldest section of town, the Parte Vieja, can be found beneath Monte Urgull.

San Sebastián’s most impressive sights are natural ones: two fantastic beaches and prominent hills. The larger beach, Playa de la Concha, is capped on its west side by the Miramar Palace. Meanwhile, the Playa de la Zurriola is flanked by the hill Monte Igueldo, with a great park on top (tired pilgrims can ride the funicular). The other hill, Monte Urgull, preserves a rich history, including the Castillo de Santa Cruz de la Mota (1530) and a British cemetery from the Peninsular War.

Human-made highlights include the 19th-century Catedral del Buen Pastor, a Neo-Gothic structure modeled after Cologne’s cathedral. Built out of sandstone, it has three large naves and a 75m tower (M–Sa 0800–1230 and 1700–2000; Su 0900–1200). The Church of San Vicente (1507) is a fine Gothic structure with a striking retablo. The Basilica de Santa María del Coro has a long history, but its current exterior is more recent. A legend states that the Virgin del Coro’s image was in the church’s choir, but a lazy clergyman, tired of the uphill climb to reach it, decided to steal the image. However, he was immobilized as he tried to leave the building. The Naval Museum shares the history of Basque seafaring (Calle Paseo del Muelle 24, T–Sa 1000–1330 and 1600–1930; Su 1100–1400). Finally, the Museum of San Telmo, located in the 16th-century Dominican monastery of San Telmo, contains a number of golden murals documenting Basque history. The museum also includes three works by El Greco and Rubens (T–Sa 1030–1330 and 1630–1930; Su 1030–1400).

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