Torres del Paine

Guidebook to trekking Chile's 10 to 11-day Torres del Paine Circuit, one of the world's great treks. Also included are a shorter Half Circuit (4 to 5 days), further treks and day walks in the Torres del Paine and Los Glaciares National Parks, centred around Puerto Natales. Includes information on linking routes, travel and accommodation.

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Overview

Guidebook to eight walking and trekking routes in Chile's Torres del Paine National Park and Argentina's Los Glaciares National Park. Three of these are multi-day treks, and four of them shorter day walks, as well as one multi-day trek in Argentina's Los Glaciares national park, also included are several excursions from Puerto Natales and El Calafate.

Routes are arranged starting with the 10 -11 day Torres del Paine Circuit, (also known as the 'O' Circuit), followed by the shorter Half Circuit (the 'W') which can be walked in 4-5 days. The guidebook helps walkers and trekkers venture into Patagonia with confidence and includes advice on getting to and around the regions, languages, visa, currency, accommodation facilities in the National Parks as well as useful guidance on what to take and expect on the treks.

While the Torres del Paine National Park offers a remote wilderness, walking is easily accessible with clear trails, good public transport and regular mountain huts and campsites. Full background information on the geology, history, wildlife, flora and cultures of the regions are also explored, resulting in an excellent companion guide to explore the region.

Table of Contents

Contents
Introduction
Geography and geology
Climate
Wildlife and plants
History and culture
Early exploration and mountaineering
Getting to Chile
Transport within Chile
Agencies and tour operators
Visas and arrival
Accommodation
Language
Food and drink
Money and costs
Keeping in touch
Safety
About this guide
Trekking in Torres del Paine national park
Refugios, campsites and hotels
Transport to and around the park
Maps
Equipment
Low-impact trekking
What to do in an emergency
Torres del Paine national park, Chile
Walk 1: Torres del Paine circuit (the ‘O’)
Stage 1 CONAF Administración – Refugio Paine Grande
Stage 2 Refugio Paine Grande – Campamento Italiano
Stage 3 Campamento Italiano – Valle Francés (return)
Stage 4 Campamento Italiano – Refugio Las Torres
Stage 5 Refugio Las Torres – El Chileno
Stage 6 El Chileno – Mirador Las Torres (return)
Stage 7 El Chileno – Campamento Japonés (return)
Stage 8 El Chileno – Refugio Las Torres
Stage 9 Refugio Las Torres – Campamento Serón
Stage 10 Campamento Serón – Refugio Dickson
Stage 11 Refugio Dickson – Campamento Los Perros
Stage 12 Campamento Los Perros – Campamento Paso
Stage 13 Campamento Paso – Refugio Grey
Stage 14 Refugio Grey – Refugio Paine Grande
Walk 2 Torres del Paine half-circuit (the ‘W’)
Stage 1 Refugio Las Torres – Mirador Las Torres (return)
Stage 2 Refugio Las Torres – Campamento Italiano
Stage 3 Campamento Italiano – Valle Francés (return)
Stage 4 Campamento Italiano – Refugio Grey
Stage 5 Refugio Grey – Refugio Paine Grande
Walk 3 Salto Grande and Mirador Los Cuernos
Walk 4 Puente Weber
Walk 5 Mirador Lago Toro and Laguna Verde
Walk 6 Mirador Cóndor
Walk 7 Río Pingo and Mirador Zapata
Stage 1 Guardería Lago Grey – Campamento Zapata
Stage 2 Campamento Zapata – Mirador Zapata (return)
Stage 3 Campamento Zapata – Guardería Lago Grey
Other walks within the national park
Laguna Amarga – Portería Sarmiento
Laguna Azul and trail to Lago Dickson
Excursions from Puerto Natales
Excursion 1 Cueva del Milodón
Excursion 2 Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers (Bernard O’Higgins national park)
Excursion 3 Sierra Baguales
Los Glaciares national park, Argentina
Excursion from El Calafate
Excursion 4 Perito Moreno glacier
Walk 8 Cerro Fitzroy (El Chaltén) and Cerro Torre
Stage 1 El Chaltén – Campamento Agostini
Stage 2 Campamento Agostini – Campamento Poincenot
Stage 3 Campamento Poincenot – Laguna de los Tres (return)
Stage 4 Campamento Poincenot – Laguna Piedas Blancas (return)
Stage 5 Campamento Poincenot – El Chaltén

Appendix A Gateway towns and cities
Appendix B Accommodation within Torres del Paine national park
Appendix C Language notes and glossary
Appendix D Contacts and online resources
Appendix E Further reading

Updates

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October 2020

Puerto Natales Airport

Pages 39 and 57

Since the second edition of this guide was published, the small airport at Puerto Natales has been developed, with direct seasonal flights operating from Santiago – saving the considerably longer journey time of flying to Punta Arenas and taking a bus up to Puerto Natales from there.

November 2017

Route Updates and corrections

Unfortunately, as of 1 November 2017, it is no longer possible to walk from the Conaf Administration to Refugio Paine Grande – this route (Walk 1 / Stage 1) can now only be walked in reverse, ie as an exit from the W or Circuit, and not (as previously) as an entry point for the Q as described in the guidebook.

Also, Conaf have stated that the free campsite, Campamento Torres, requires mandatory booking in January/February (' You can book in Puerto Natales, at CONAF’s Provincial Office or in the park, at the Porteria Laguna Amarga entrance or at CONAF’s Campamento Italiano. Bookings must be done in person and are operated on a first-come first-served policy.') A local guide however described it as 'closed'. The author is currently trying to find the status of this campsite from Conaf.

(Thanks to Alison Bramhall for sending in this information)

April 2017

There have been two major changes to the regulations for hiking in Torres del Paine national Park, which apply to both the Circuit and the 'W'. As of 2016 it is now mandatory to book all accommodation before arriving in the park (easiest done through the two companies that run the campsites and refugios, Fantastico Sur and Vertice; and the Circuit can only be walked anticlockwise (ie the way it is described in this guide).

Also the 'new' Camp Francés, mentioned in the guidebook, also has 3 geodomes, each sleeping up to 8 people – meaning that it is possible to do the 'W' without needing to camp.

Thank you to Mirrlees Dolley for this information.

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