Aconcagua and the Southern Andes

Stand beneath the highest mountain in South America and explore the dramatic spine of the Southern Andes in Argentina and Chile — a landscape of immense skies, sculpted glaciers and windswept high-altitude deserts.

Dominated by Aconcagua (6961m), this region offers high-altitude trekking and serious mountaineering objectives amid some of the most spectacular scenery outside the Himalaya.
Aconcagua and the Southern Andes is a comprehensive guide to trekking and climbing in this remarkable corner of South America, written by experienced mountaineer Jim Ryan. It combines detailed route descriptions with practical expedition advice, covering the two principal Aconcagua routes alongside acclimatisation treks across Argentina and Chile to help you prepare thoroughly and climb with confidence.

Complete coverage of the two main ascent routes on Aconcagua is provided, including the 12-day Normal Route (Horcones Valley) and the 14-day (Vacas Valley) Polish Glacier Traverse, with clear, stage-by-stage descriptions
Summary tables are included that break down the key features of both the Normal and Polish Glacier Route so you can make an informed decision on which is best for you based on factors such as weather, cost, busyness and likelihood of reaching the summit
Additional routes are provided for acclimatisation or as standalone objectives with detailed descriptions of 5000m and 6000m peaks in the Aconcagua, Vallecitos and Tupungato areas of the Southern Andes of Argentina and Chile
Essential information on permits, park regulations and logistics for Aconcagua Provincial Park is included, as well as accommodation details and things to do in nearby Mendoza and Santiago
Practical guidance on altitude awareness, expedition planning and equipment for high-altitude environments


From the dusty trails of the Horcones Valley to the vast sweep of the Vacas Valley and the thin air above Plaza de Mulas, the high Andes deliver an experience that is as demanding as it is unforgettable. Whether your ambition is to reach the summit of Aconcagua or to explore the wider southern Andes as preparation, this guidebook provides the clarity, expertise and inspiration to help you climb Southern Hemisphere's highest mountain with confidence.

Seasons

possible mid-November to mid-March; high season is December/January; weather is best mid-December to mid-February

Centres

Santiago, Mendoza, Puente del Inca, Los Penitentes, Tupungato

Difficulty

the highest trek in the world, the climb of Aconcagua is a mountaineering route that requires relatively little technical expertise, but climbers must acclimatise to the altitude and to the cold

Must See

Aconcagua, highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas, summit of the Americas; Tupungato and El Plomo; Maipo volcano; Santiago City

Contents

Index of maps and illustrations
Map key
Map of South America
Area maps in this guide
Aconcagua - Normal and Vacas Valley Routes
Routes to the summit
Summary of camps
Summary comparison of Normal and Vacas Valley Routes
Table of co-ordinates and elevations
Foreword by Sebastian Tetilla
Preface
A note on the third edition


Introduction
The mountain in context
Two trekking routes
Location
Geology
Topography
Maps and co-ordinates
Wildlife
History
Climbing history
Trekker/climber profiles
Weather
When to go
Getting there
Preparations
Acclimatisation
Guides and trekking companies


Part 1 The ascent of Aconcagua
Mendoza to Puente del Inca
Mendoza
The road to Puente del Inca
Aconcagua routes
The Normal Route
The Vacas Valley Route
Summit day
The long walk out
Other routes


Part 2 Acclimatisation near Aconcagua, 
Vallecitos and the Maipo Volcano
Treks in the Aconcagua area
Puente del Inca and Los Penitentes
A walk to the Statue of Cristo Redentor
Horcones Valley to Plaza Francia
Routes at Vallecitos
Vallecitos Ski and Mountain Lodge
Lomas Blancas (3850m)
Cerro Vallecitos (5770m)
The Maipo Volcano


Part 3 The Tupungato area
Tupungato
The Andes' Great Mountain
Tupungato routes
Tupungato via Chile and Rio Colorado
Tupungato Provincial Park
Wilderness Trek to Friar's Col


Part 4 The Santiago area
Santiago
Santiago City
In and around Santiago
Routes near Santiago
El Morado Valley
La Campana National Park
El Plomo (5430m)
Provincia and San Roman


Appendix A Maps, guidebooks and further reading
Appendix B Checklist of essential gear
Appendix C Guides and mountain services
Appendix D Accommodation and local facilities
Appendix E South American cuisine
Appendix F Wine tasting in Argentina and Chile
Appendix G Spanish-English language notes