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Trekking Chamonix to Zermatt

The classic Walker's Haute Route

Guidebook to the Walker's Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. The 225km route typically takes 2 weeks to walk. Described in 14 stages, the route crosses 11 passes between Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn and involves more than 14,000m of ascent and descent. A complete guide for planning and walking the route, with accommodation information

Publishing 12 July 2022

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Quick facts

  • Trail name: Walker's Haute Route (Chamonix to Zermatt)
  • Location: French Alps (Haute-Savoie) and Swiss Pennine Alps (Valais)
  • Designation: Pennine Alps / Swiss Valais; partially follows Swiss National Walking Route 6 – The Alpine Passes Trail
  • Distance: About 215km
  • Typical duration: 10–14 days (12 days typical)
  • Start: Chamonix, France (1037m)
  • End: Zermatt, Switzerland
  • Route format: Linear, west to east
  • Number of stages: 14 main stages plus nine alternatives
  • Navigation: 1:50,000 mapping, detailed route descriptions, free downloadable GPX tracks
  • Terrain: Mountain hiking trails (mainly red/white grade); 11 high passes mostly near 3000m; some blue alpine sections
  • Difficulty: Demanding; requires strong fitness, sure-footedness and mountain walking experience
  • Best season: July–September (mountain huts open mid-June to mid-September)
  • Accommodation: Valley hotels, gîtes and Swiss Alpine Club (CAS) mountain huts throughout

Detailed overview

Trekking Chamonix to Zermatt is the definitive guide to the Walker's Haute Route – a 14-stage, 215km traverse of the Pennine Alps connecting the world's two greatest mountaineering centres, with 14,500m of ascent and the summits of Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn watching over every step.

The route crosses 11 high passes, almost one per day, through some of the finest alpine scenery in Europe. From Chamonix you climb over the Col de Balme into Switzerland and begin a traverse that takes you beneath the Grand Combin, along the shores of Lac des Dix, over the Col de Riedmatten to Arolla, and into the deeply cut valleys of the Val d'Hérens and Val d'Anniviers. The Europaweg – a true high-level traverse of the east wall of the Mattertal – forms a spectacular finale, with the 500m Charles Kuonen Hängebrücke, and an overnight stay in the Europahütte before the final walk into Zermatt. Nine alternative stages, including the Fenêtre d'Arpette, the Cabane des Dix and Cabane de Moiry overnights and the Meidpass variant, give experienced trekkers plenty of scope to personalise the route.

Chamonix is easily reached by rail from Geneva, Lausanne or Basle, with high-speed connections from across Europe, including Eurostar from London via Paris. Zermatt is served by regular valley trains connecting at Visp in the Rhône valley. Along the route, accommodation ranges from valley hotels and gîtes to Swiss Alpine Club (CAS) mountain huts, each providing good dinners, mountain camaraderie and an authentic piece of alpine life. A 12-day schedule is the norm, though itineraries for 10 and 14 days are provided throughout. The guide suits fit, experienced mountain walkers who are ready for a longer and higher-level challenge than the Tour of Mont Blanc.

  • 14 main stages plus nine alternatives covering about 215km and 14,500m of ascent across 11 high passes. Flexible itineraries for 10, 12 or 14 days let you match the route to your schedule and fitness level.
  • Iconic scenery at every turn: the soaring aiguilles of the Mont Blanc massif, the vast bulk of the Grand Combin, the Weisshorn dominating the second half of the trek, and the Matterhorn as a constant companion on the final approach to Zermatt. The Lac de Moiry icefall, the Cabane du Mont Fort belvedere and the deep pastoral valleys of the Val d'Hérens and Val d'Anniviers add variety between the high passes.
  • Key challenges include the Fenêtre d'Arpette – a steep, scree-laden descent early in the trek – the remote Grand Désert crossing with three cols in a single day, the rocky Col de Riedmatten, and the high-level Europaweg finale with its 500m Charles Kuonen suspension bridge and overnight at the Europahütte.
  • GPX files for all stages are available to download, with 1:50,000 stage maps and height profiles in the guide for every day on the trail.
  • A stage facilities planner shows distances and times between accommodation, refreshments and transport points – essential for building your own itinerary. Full accommodation listings cover valley hotels, gîtes and Swiss Alpine Club (CAS) mountain huts, with booking advice for the busiest sections.
  • Several stages follow Swiss National Walking Route 6 – The Alpine Passes Trail, one of Switzerland's great long-distance routes, so signage is reliable and waymarking consistent across the Swiss portion of the trek.

The Swiss Pennine Alps offer some of the most spectacular high-mountain scenery in Europe, and the Walker's Haute Route places you at the heart of it. Trekking Chamonix to Zermatt equips you fully – from planning tools and stage-by-stage maps to route alternatives and accommodation listings. Buy the guide and start planning your trek today.

Where and when to go

Seasons

This is an alpine summer trek, best undertaken from mid-June to mid-September. Snow may remain on the higher passes well into July.

Centres

The route passes through a number of alpine towns and villages, including Chamonix, Argentière, Trient, Champex, Le Châble, Verbier, Arolla, Les Haudères, La Sage, Zinal, Gruben, St Niklaus and Zermatt.

Difficulty

At 215km with 11 passes and 14,000m of ascent, this is a fairly demanding trek involving high alpine mountain walking and remote passes. Some cols are steep and exposed, and the final section along the Europaweg is particularly challenging, with sections protected by cables and a 500m suspension bridge to cross.

Must See

The trek takes in the spectacular alpine scenery of Chamonix and Zermatt, with highlights including Mont Blanc and Chamonix’s Aiguilles, the Grand Combin, the Grand Désert, Lac des Dix, and the traditional villages of the Val d’Hérens, Zinal in the Val d’Anniviers, and the Moiry valley and lake. Other memorable sights include the view of the Dom from Täsch, the Weisshorn, and the dramatic approach to Zermatt with views of the Matterhorn.

Table of contents

Mountain safety

Map key

Route summary table

Overview profile and sample itineraries

Stage facilities planner

Preface

Introduction

The Walker’s Haute Route

Planning your trek

Planning resources in this guide

A linear route – with options

How many days?

Route choice

Tricky sections

Busy spots to book ahead

Camping

Zermatt to Chamonix?

Taking a rest day

Bad weather

Using this guide

Essential information

When to go

Weather in the Valais

Getting to and from the trail

Accommodation and booking

Staying in a mountain hut

Costs in the trail

Cash or card

Languages

Maps

Apps

Paths and waymarking

Training and acclimatisation

Equipment

Mountain safety

Top 10 tips

The Pennine Alps and Swiss Valais

History of the region

The origins of the Haute Route

Geology

Wildlife and flowers

Ten things to do in Zermatt

Chamonix to Zermatt

Stage 1 Chamonix to Argentière

Stage 2 Argentière to Trient

Route choices from Trient to Champex

Stage 3 Trient to Champex by the Fenêtre d’Arpette

Stage 3A Trient to Champex by Alp Bovine

Route choices between Champex and Prafleuri

Stage 4 Champex to Le Châble

Stage 5 Le Châble to the Cabane du Mont Fort

Stage 5A Les Ruinettes to the Cabane de Louvie

Stage 6 The Cabane du Mont Fort to the Cabane de Prafleuri

Stage 6A The Cabane de Louvie to the Cabane de Prafleuri

Stage 7 The Cabane de Prafleuri to Arolla by the Col de Riedmatten

Stage 8 Arolla to La Sage

Route choices from La Sage to Zinal

Stage 9 La Sage to the Cabane de Moiry by the Col du Tsaté

Stage 9A La Sage to Zinal by the Col de Torrent and the Barrage de Moiry

Stage 10 Cabane de Moiry to Zinal by the Corne de Sorebois

Route choices from Zinal to Gruben

Stage 11 Zinal to Gruben by the Forcletta

Stage 11A Zinal to Hôtel Weisshorn

Stage 11B Hôtel Weisshorn to Gruben by the Meidpass

Stage 12 Gruben to St Niklaus by the Augstbordpass

Route choices from St Niklaus to Zermatt

Getting to Grächen or Gasenried

Stage 13 Grächen to the Europahütte

Stage 13A St Niklaus to the Europahütte by Herbriggen/Randa

Stage 14 The Europahütte to Zermatt

Stage 14A Täsch to Zermatt by Täschalp

Stage 14B St Niklaus to Zermatt – valley route

Appendix A Accommodation

Appendix B Camping

Appendix C Useful contacts

Appendix D Further reading

Appendix E French – English – German glossary

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781786311382
AvailabilityPublished
Published12 July 2022
Reprinted28 May 2024
Weight 290g

eBook

The complete digital edition of the guidebook, with full route descriptions, accommodation listings, profiles and maps, ready to use on any device.

Updates

  1. Updated

    Closure of Europaweg and new route

    The Europaweg is now closed between Grächen and the Europahütte. This was an exposed route, prone to rockfall from above and to many trekkers, rather scary. Treemendous, but scary.

    The visit to the hut allows a last high-level overnight and the crossing of the fantastic 400metre Charles Kuonen suspension bridge and is still recommended.

    The new route options are set down in the latest seventh) edition – ISBN 978 178631 138 2. These updates therefore cover previous editions of the C-Z guide.

    To overnight at the EuropeHütte, there are two options:

    Either take the valley route to Herbriggen and then climb to the Europehütte. This is our preferred option. Stage 13). Its also possible to continue upvalley to Randa and make the 2hr, 800m climb from there, passing the new suspension bridge.

    Or, overnight in Grächen and take the descending route to Herbriggen and then the new route to the Europahütte. Stage 13B)

    The direct one-day route through the Zermatt is described in Stage 13A/14A. This is unchanged from previous books.

    See download below for stages 12A, 13 and 13B.

  2. Updated

    Route alterations during 2022

    Please check locally before changing plans as some of these routing changes may be resolved during the summer. Probably only the Sentier des Chamois closure on Stage 6 may cause a re-plan, and there are several work arounds for that.

    If you have better information ion these, or more seasonal updates that we can pass on to trekkers please let us know by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or using the contact form on the cicerone.co.uk website.

    The alternative descent into Trient via Catogne on Stage 2 is now rerouted to descend directly to La Peuty.

    On Stage 6 the very fine Sentier des Chamois path after the Cabane de Mont Fort is closed and the alternative route takes the harder Col des Chaux. Alternatively take the lower route from near the La Chaux cable car and join the path later, or use the Cabane de Louvie route Stage 5A) or make the ascent to Louvie from Fionnay.

    There are re-routings across the glacier after the Dix hut on Stage 7. The direct route to Arolla avoids any difficulties.

    There are path re-routings below the Twara viewpoint on Stage 12 after the Augstbordpass.

  3. Updated

    Swiss Topo/Landescarte Schweiz maps 5027T & 5028T

    The Swiss Topo/Landescarte Schweiz maps 5027T & 5028T are out of print.

    The maps we now recommend for this route are the Swiss Topo 1:50K tourist maps. Working from east to west, the sheet Nos required are 282T, 283T & 284T. The maps are waterproof and have all the hiking trails over-laid on each map.

  4. Updated

    The Swiss maps keep changing names

    I have known about Swiss name changes for a good while now, but I was slightly horrified when I went to check a height and found that the Blümlisalphütte had become the Blüemlisalphütte in the last few weeks. Right after the Trekking in the Bernese Oberland has been published.

    I know it was about using local names, but it prompted me to dig more deeply into what is going on and why. So here goes:

    Since 2008, swisstopo the national mapping agency) has taken local/minor place names Flurnamen, hut names, alp names) directly from the "amtlicheVermessung" — the official cadastral survey run by each canton. Bernese Oberland, where the Blüemlisalp massif sits, has been going through a re-survey Neuvermessung) in which the canton's Nomenklaturkommission re-records these names in their dialect form, per the federal guideline from 1948, updated 2011) that local names should be written "wie man spricht" — as spoken, in dialect — rather than in a High-German-ized spelling. Once the canton adopts a name, swisstopo carries it onto the Landeskarte.

    "Blüemlisalp" reflects Bernese dialect: the diphthong "üe" from Blueme = Flower) replacing the standard-German-style "ü" in "Blümlisalp." So the hut's name simply followed the alp/massif's name being re-recorded in correct Bernese spelling.

    One caveat: peaks over roughly 3500 m are generally kept in their traditional spelling which is why Blüemlisalphorn, at 3664 m, is a case some sources flag as inconsistent with the hut name) — but the hut and alp themselves aren't exempt, so they picked up the dialect form.

    Another useful site is the Swiss Alpine Club's ‘Write how you speak’ article www.sac-cas.ch/de/die-alpen/schreibe-wie-man-spricht-1-38915/ and for anyone who wants to get really geeky about Swiss naming conventions www.giswiki.ch/Mundart_in_Lokalnamen

    Anyhow, in summary, after a general move towards a standard ‘high’ German in the 19th century, there was a movement to support the local Swiss German spelling approach – ‘spiritual national defence’. This was formulated into a law in 1948, since updated, and as Cantons decree that a place name should follow the traditional local spelling, the national maps pick it up.

    There we go. But who are we to speak as Snowdon becomes Yr Wyddfa in the Eyro National Park. And the survival of Gaelic names throughout the highlands of Scotland seems assured.

    By and large these differences are small and won’t lead to any confusion. I hardly think you will climb the wrong mountain or reach the wrong hut just because it's gained an extra ‘e’. But be aware that things change! We will keep up as best we can with the changes but, in the meantime, if you do see anything that causes confusion, please let us know right away.

    Alongside this, the Swiss mappers keep re-measuring the country and map heights evolve almost annually. It's great that they are on top of things, even if a little vexing for a guidebook author and publisher. Again, it shouldn’t be confusing, it's only a metre here or there but it does lead to books diverging from official maps. We will keep an eye on things.

    Jonathan Williams

Meet the author

A lifelong passion for the countryside in general, and mountains in particular, drove Kev's desire to share his sense of wonder and delight in the natural world through his writing, guiding, photography and lecturing. Spending several months every year in various high-mountain regions researching guidebooks made him The Man with the World's Best Job.

Kev enjoyed a fruitful partnership with Cicerone from the 1970s, producing 50 books, including guides to five major trekking regions of Nepal and to numerous routes in the European Alps and Pyrenees, as well as walking guides for Kent, Sussex and the Cotswolds. 'A Walk in the Clouds' is a collection of autobiographical short stories recording 50 years of mountain travel and adventures. He was also the contributing editor of the collaborative guide 'Trekking in the Himalaya' and Cicerone's celebratory anniversary compilation 'Fifty Years of Adventure'.

A frequent contributor to outdoor magazines, Kev also wrote and illustrated brochures for national tourist authorities and travel companies. When not away in the mountains, Kev lived with his wife in a small cottage among what he called 'the Kentish Alps', with unrestricted walking country on the doorstep. But he also travelled throughout Britain during the winter months to share his love of the places he wrote about through a series of lectures.

Sadly, Kev passed away in 2021. He will be remembered fondly by all who knew him and by many more he inspired through his writing and talks.