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Walking in Provence - East

Alpes Maritimes, Alpes de Haute-Provence, Mercantour

Guidebook to 30 varied day walks in the east of Provence in the Alpes Maritimes, Alpes de Haute-Provence and Mercantour, with practical information for the walker. Walks span from the Esterel on the coast to the Mercantour, and include the Verdon Gorge and Geological Reserve of Haute Provence, from bases such as Vence, Grasse and Digne-les-Bains.

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Quick facts

  • Guide name: Walking in Provence: East – Alpes Maritimes, Alpes de Haute-Provence, Mercantour
  • Location: France – eastern Provence, covering the Alpes Maritimes, Alpes de Haute-Provence, and Mercantour
  • Routes covered: 30 circular day walks (4–21km/2–13 miles)
  • Typical duration: 2–8 hours per walk; range of half and full-day options
  • Difficulty: Graded from easy to difficult; suitable for beginner and experienced walkers; difficult walks may include precipitous or navigationally challenging sections
  • Terrain: Mountain ridges, alpine lakes, river gorges, coastal red rock landscapes, medieval village paths, and high Mercantour trails
  • Navigation/mapping: Sketch maps included for each route; GPX files available to download
  • Key centres: Vence and Grasse (Alpes Maritimes); Digne-les-Bains and Castellane (Alpes de Haute-Provence); Guillaumes and the Val d'Entraunes (Mercantour)
  • Highlights: Verdon Gorge and the Sentier Blanc-Martel, Geological Reserve of Haute Provence, Mont Mounier, Mont Pelat, Gorges de Daluis, the Estérel circuit, perched medieval villages and ruined castles throughout the region
  • Accommodation & logistics: Practical information on travelling to Provence, accommodation, clothing and equipment, and local markets
  • Best time to go: Year-round for coastal and lowland walks; summer and autumn for high Mercantour trails when snow-free
  • Companion volume: Walking in Provence: West (also available from Cicerone)

Detailed overview

Explore eastern Provence and discover one of southern France's most varied and rewarding landscapes, stretching from the red rocks and Mediterranean coastline of the Estérel to the high alpine terrain of the Mercantour, with the dramatic Verdon Gorge and the Geological Reserve of Haute Provence in between. Rich in history, wildflowers, perched medieval villages, and ruined castles, eastern Provence offers an exceptional walking destination in every season.

Suitable for beginners and experienced walkers alike, this comprehensive Cicerone guidebook describes 30 circular day walks across three distinct areas of eastern Provence: the Alpes Maritimes, the Alpes de Haute-Provence, and the Mercantour. Routes range from 4 to 21km (2–13 miles) and can be enjoyed in 2–8 hours, graded from easy to difficult to suit a range of abilities and fitness levels.

  • Choose from 30 circular day walks across the Alpes Maritimes, Alpes de Haute-Provence, and Mercantour, exploring dramatic mountain ridges, alpine lakes, deep river gorges, perched medieval villages, and the striking red rocks of the Estérel coastline.
  • Discover the highlights of eastern Provence, including the Verdon Gorge and its famous Sentier Blanc-Martel, the Geological Reserve of Haute Provence, Mont Mounier, Mont Pelat, the Gorges de Daluis, and the Estérel circuit above the Mediterranean coast.
  • Navigate with confidence using sketch maps included for each route in eastern Provence, with downloadable GPX files to support your planning and navigation on the ground.
  • Plan your Provence walking holiday from key bases including Vence and Grasse in the Alpes Maritimes, Digne-les-Bains and Castellane in the Alpes de Haute-Provence, and Guillaumes and the Val d'Entraunes in the Mercantour.
  • Choose the best time to walk in eastern Provence with guidance on seasons, showing why coastal and lowland walks are suitable year-round while the high Mercantour trails are best enjoyed in summer and autumn when the mountains are clear of snow.
  • Deepen your experience of the region with introductory sections on the history of Provence, its plants and flowers, wildlife, regional specialities, and the art and literature inspired by this exceptional corner of southern France.
  • Extend your walking with the companion volume, Walking in Provence: West, which together with this guide covers the full breadth of Provence's varied landscapes.

Explore the wild landscapes, ancient villages, and dramatic gorges of eastern Provence with confidence using this trusted Cicerone guidebook. From the Mediterranean coast to the high peaks of the Mercantour, this is the essential companion for walking in one of France's most beautiful and varied regions.

Where and when to go

Seasons

walks near the coast can be made at any time of the year, but the high trails in the Mercantour are restricted to snow-free months in summer and autumn

Centres

Vence and Grasse (Alpes Maritimes); Digne-les-Bains and Castellane (Alpes de Haute-Provence); Guillaumes and the Val d'Entraunes (Mercantour)

Difficulty

circular day walks, suitable for averagely fit people and graded Easy, Medium or Difficult, depending on length, total ascent and terrain; easy walks are short, while difficult ones take up to eight hours and may include sections which are precipitous or difficult to navigate; no special equipment is needed.

Must See

dramatic mountain ridges, alpine lakes and deep river gorges; perched medieval villages, ruined castles and churches; the red rocks in the Estérel on the Mediterranean coast to high mountains in the Mercantour

Table of contents


Map key


Overview map


Preface


Introduction


A short history of Provence


Provençal writers and artists


Plants and flowers


Wildlife


Regional specialities


Markets


Travelling to Provence


When to go


Accommodation


Clothing and equipment


Using this guide


Alpes Maritimes


Walk 1 Baou des Noirs and Baou des Blancs


Walk 2 Baou de St-Jeannet


Walk 3 Chemin du Paradis


Walk 4 Pic de Courmettes and Puy de Tourrettes


Walk 5 Baou de St-Jean


Walk 6 The Route Napoléon


Walk 7 Vallée de la Siagne


Walk 8 Pic du Cap Roux


Walk 9 Estérel Circuit and Lac de l’Ecureuil


Walk 10 Mont Vinaigre


Alpes de Haute-Provence


Walk 11 Three Chapels Walk from Digne-les-Bains


Walk 12 Walk in the Réserve Géologique


Walk 13 Bigue du Siron


Walk 14 The Cousson


Walk 15 The Cucuyon


Walk 16 Rochers des Mées


Walk 17 Gorges de Trévans


Walk 18 The Verdon Gorge – Sentier Blanc-Martel


Walk 19 Lower Verdon Gorge


Walk 20 Sommet de Crémon


Mercantour


Walk 21 Moulin de la Barlatte


Walk 22 Plateau de la Lare from Sauze


Walk 23 Gorges de Daluis


Walk 24 Circuit from St-Martin d’Entraunes


Walk 25 Col des Champs from Entraunes


Walk 26 Lakes Circuit from the Col de la Cayolle


Walk 27 Mont Pelat


Walk 28 Circuit above Péone


Walk 29 Mont Mounier


Walk 30 Around Mont d’Auvare


Appendices


Appendix A Route summary table


Appendix B Maps


Appendix C Tourist information


Appendix D Market days


Appendix E Glossary of Provençal words

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781852846176
AvailabilityPublished
Published3 November 2014
Reprinted31 January 2033
Weight 260g

eBook

The complete digital edition of the guidebook, with full route descriptions, accommodation listings, profiles and maps, ready to use on any device.

Updates

  1. Updated

    Route Updates

    Update received from reader Mick Borroff, January 2016. Thanks to Mick.

    Note: Mick walked this walk - Route 19, on 22nd October 2015.

    The route described by Janette has recently been upgraded with an improved path and additional railings in place along all of the Verdon Canal wall. The old ladders adjacent to the tunnel have been replaced by metal stairs. The small hut beside the tunnel entrance now houses a series of fascinating information boards about the canal.

    The direct ascent to the Chapelle Ste-Maxime from the beginning of the Vallonet de Ste-Maxime described under the main route has been permanently closed by the authorities for safety reasons due to severe stonefall danger. The line of this path forking left has been blocked by trees at the bottom but there was no signposting of the closure here. Once the chapel was reached, the closure notice was displayed beside the line of the former route and a second notice attached to the signpost.

    The route now continues up the Vallonet de Ste-Maxime and circles around the south side of the chapel to join Janette’s alternative route. The new route is clearly waymarked and well signposted. This adds about 1.2km to the original main route.

    The description on page 163/164 could be modified to read:

    “Bear left away from the edge of the gorge into a narrow bushy valley called the Vallonet de Ste-Maxime, where you glimpse tall cliffs each side. About 5 mins later, ignore a blocked former path on the left and continue up the valley through boxwood and oak following the red/white markings of the GR99. The path traverses above the Ravin de Ste-Maxime and after about a kilometre reaches a T junction. Turn left as signposted to Chapelle Ste-Maxime. In another 200m, turn left at a signpost vat a second T junction where the alternative route avoiding the tunnel is joined and followed on a narrow footpath with the gorge on the right, until you reach the Chapelle Ste-Maxime 2hrs 5mins).

    Return the same way following the yellow waymarked path signposted to Carrefour de Ste-Maxim/Quinson back to the signpost v at the junction with the GR99, so the markings are red/white instead of yellow 2hrs 20mins).

    Follow the sign ahead to the Carrefour de la Draille des Vaches and Quinson. The wide path still climbs …”

    NB Add 20 mins to all subsequent timings.

    Updates received from reader Phil Dover, November 2015

    Walk 9: Esterel Circuit

    There was no sign marking the path along the Ravin des Trois Terms and Lac Ecureuil, and the top third is badly washed out.

    Note from the updaters of this guide: It sounds as if this section is no longer maintained, probably due to repeated flooding. It is therefore best to use the shorter route from point 1 to point 3.

    Walk 19: Lower Verdon Gorge

    The start of the narrow path from the Vallone de Ste-Maxime has no markings now and have been obstructed with brushwood and at the top by the chapel there is a "Sentier interdit" notice but we didn't find it difficult to do.

    Note from the updaters of this guide: This part of the route was flood damaged some years back and may be unstable. The tourist office does not want to signpost it until it has been fully secured.

Meet the author


Janette Norton lived with her physicist husband, Alan, in the Geneva region for over 30 years, raising four children and working in the marketing field. Her love of mountain walking dated from the time she was a guide in her twenties, and the proximity to her home of the Alps and the Jura enabled her to continue her passion. After her children grew up, she branched out to walk in other areas of France such as Provence, the Cevennes and the Dordogne.