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Walking in Umbria

40 walks in the 'Green Heart' of Italy

This guidebook describes 40 walks in Umbria, among the ancient towns of Assisi, Perugia, Orvieto and Norcia. Known as the 'green heart' of Italy, the region of Umbria is home to hills reaching up to the Apennines and Sibillini mountains, and take in ancient villages, Roman and Etruscan ruins, dense woodland and nature reserves.

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Quick facts

  • Region: Umbria, central Italy
  • Walk format: 40 graded day walks
  • Walk distances: 3 to 19km (2 to 12 miles) per walk
  • Walk duration: 1 to 5 hours per walk
  • Difficulty grades: 1 (easy) to 3 (difficult)
  • Areas covered: Alta Val Tiberina and Gubbio, Lago Trasimeno, Orvieto and Todi, Assisi and around, Spoleto and the Valnerina, Norcia and the Sibillini
  • Main centres: Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, Norcia, Spoleto, Orvieto, Passignano sul Trasimeno, Umbertide, Montone
  • Key highlights: Assisi (UNESCO World Heritage), Orvieto, Lago Trasimeno, Isola Maggiore, Isola Polvese, Piano Grande di Castelluccio, Monte Cucco, Spoleto aqueduct bridge, Valnerina, Monte Subasio, Norcia, Sibillini mountains
  • Terrain: Rolling hills, mountain paths, lakeside walks, ancient village circuits, Roman and Etruscan ruins, dense woodland, nature reserves
  • Best season: Spring to autumn; year-round possible except mountainous areas in winter, where snow is common
  • Maps: Sketch maps included for every walk

Detailed overview

Sandwiched between Rome and Florence yet remarkably unspoilt, Umbria is Italy's only landlocked region and one of its most rewarding walking destinations. Known as the Green Heart of Italy, it combines rolling hills rising to the Apennines and Sibillini mountains with ancient villages, Roman and Etruscan ruins, UNESCO World Heritage towns, dense woodland, and nature reserves across six distinct walking areas.

40 day walks ranging from 3 to 19km (2 to 12 miles) and taking 1 to 5 hours are described in this second edition guidebook by expert author Gillian Price. It pairs clear route descriptions with detailed information on accommodation, public transport, and facilities to help you explore the Green Heart of Italy with confidence.

  • The 40 walks are graded 1 to 3 and organised across six areas covering Alta Val Tiberina and Gubbio, Lago Trasimeno and its islands, Orvieto and Todi, Assisi and Monte Subasio, Spoleto and the Valnerina, and Norcia and the Sibillini
  • Sketch maps are included for every walk alongside detailed information on accommodation, public transport, and facilities, with notes on culinary delights helping you make the most of Umbrian food and drink
  • Highlights include Assisi, glorious Orvieto and its medieval aqueduct, Lago Trasimeno and the islands of Isola Maggiore and Isola Polvese, the Piano Grande di Castelluccio, Monte Cucco, and the wonderful Valnerina
  • Background sections cover Umbria's history, plants, flowers, and wildlife, giving rich context for the Roman and Etruscan ruins, medieval hilltowns, and dense woodland you encounter on the trail
  • Bases include Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, Norcia, Spoleto, Orvieto, and Passignano sul Trasimeno, with the region sitting conveniently between Rome and Florence for easy access

With walks spanning UNESCO hilltowns, crater lakes, Roman ruins, and the high Sibillini peaks, this second edition guidebook captures the full variety of walking in Umbria in a single volume. Discover the very best of the region from hiking expert Gillian Price.

Where and when to go

Seasons

Spring to autumn, but year-round is possible - except for mountainous areas in winter where snow is common.

Centres

Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, Norcia, Spoleto, Orvieto, Passignano sul Trasimeno, Umbertide, Montone

Difficulty

Walks are graded 1-3, from easy to difficult.

Must See

Assisi, Lago Trasimeno and its islands, Spoleto and its famous aqueduct bridge, Monte Cucco, Piano Grande di Castelluccio and Norcia in the Sibillini, wonderful Valnerina and its railway line, Monte Tezio over the upper Tiber valley, glorious Orvieto and the medieval way from Lago Bolsena, medieval Gubbio.

Table of contents

Overview maps


Legend

Introduction


A potted history


Plants and flowers


Wildlife


Getting there


Local transport


Information


When to go


Accommodation


Culinary delights


What to take


Maps


Dos and don’ts


Emergencies


Using this guide

1 Alta Val Tiberina, Gubbio and Monte Cucco

Walk 1 Monte Santa Maria Tiberina


Walk 2 Monte Falcone


Walk 3 Rocca d’Aries


Walk 4 Monte Tezio


Walk 5 Monte Foce


Walk 6 Above Gubbio


Walk 7 Monte Cucco


Walk 8 Val di Rio Freddo

2 Lago Trasimeno and environs

Walk 9 Tuoro and Monte Gualandro


Walk 10 Passignano Ridge


Walk 11 Isola Maggiore


Walk 12 Isola Polvese


Walk 13 Montemelino and Montesperello


Walk 14 Paciano and Monte Pausillo


Walk 15 Monte Arale

3 Orvieto and Todi

Walk 16 Orvieto ring walk


Walk 17 Orvieto Aqueduct loop


Walk 18 Orvieto to Bolsena


Walk 19 Titignano Loop


Walk 20 Titignano to Roccaccia


Walk 21 Civitella del Lago


Walk 22 Todi and the River Tiber


Walk 23 Vasciano–Montenero

4 Assisi and around

Walk 24 Bettona–Collemancio


Walk 25 Monte Subasio


Walk 26 Spello and Monte Pietrolungo


Walk 27 Bevagna to Montefalco

5 Spoleto and the Valnerina

Walk 28 Spoleto and Monteluco


Walk 29 Giro dei Condotti


Walk 30 Spoleto to Sant’Anatolia di Narco


Walk 31 Valnerina 1


Walk 32 Monte Coscerno


Walk 33 Roccaporena to Cascia


Walk 34 Monte Meraviglia

6 Norcia and the Sibillini

Walk 35 Preci and Sant’Eutizio


Walk 36 Campi to Norcia

Walk 37 Monte Patino


Walk 38 Monte delle Rose


Walk 39 Piano Grande di Castelluccio


Walk 40 Dogana Loop

Appendix A Route summary table


Appendix B Italian–English Glossary


Appendix C Useful contacts

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781852849665
AvailabilityPublished
Published15 July 2019
Reprinted30 September 2028
Weight 230g

eBook

The complete digital edition of the guidebook, with full route descriptions, accommodation listings, profiles and maps, ready to use on any device.

Updates

  1. Updated

    Maps

    Many of the maps for the walks are stocked by 'Libreria Monti in citta' in Milan www.libridimontagna.net) and they will send to the UK. Thanks to Roger Caudwell)

  2. Updated

    Maps (page 22)

    The Florence-based Stella Alpina bookstore only sends to EU countries.

    (Thanks to Roger Caudwell)

  3. Updated

    Ponte delle Torri in Umbria closure – Walks 28 and 29 update

    Oct 2020: the Ponte delle Torri in Spoleto is still closed for public access. Walk 28 can be done by starting on the far side of Ponte delle Torri, either from the tower at the far side of Ponte delle Torri, or from chiesa San Pietro if walking from Spoleto. NOTE the restaurant at San Giuliano is no longer there.

    Walk 29 is closed both from the Ponte delle Torri, and for all of the segment to Ponte Sanguineto.

    (Gillian Price, with thanks to Sean Perry)

  4. Updated

    Post (2016) earthquake reconstruction

    Post 2016) earthquake reconstruction is ongoing and Castelluccio was not wholly accessible to the public at the time of writing.

    Walk 35, Preci to S Eustizio, is significantly affected by the closure of both places.

    (Thanks to Pamela Bickley)

  5. Updated

    Walk 2

    Walk 2 is no longer viable

  6. Updated

    Walk 36

    (p172) The route is now fully open and walkable in its entirety

  7. Updated

    Walks 28 and 29

    The Ponte delle Torri bridge in Spoleto has been reopened so these walks are now feasible once more

Meet the author


Gillian Price has trekked throughout Asia and the Himalayas, but now lives in Venice and is exploring the mountains and flatter bits of Italy. Starting in the Italian Dolomites, Gillian has written outstanding Cicerone guides to walking all over Italy as well as Corsica and Corfu. An adamant promoter of public transport to minimise environmental impact, Gillian belongs to Mountain Wilderness and is an active member of the Venice branch of CAI, the Italian Alpine Club. Check her out at www.gillianprice.eu.