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Cycling the Canal du Midi

Across Southern France from Toulouse to Sete

Guide to cycling the Canal du Midi in southern France, 240km from Toulouse in the Haute Garonne to Sete on the Mediterranean Coast. The flat, picturesque route is divided into five stages, each around 50km long. Includes detours to sights close to the canal as well as longer excursions, including Narbonne, Minerve, Carcassone and Beziers.

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Quick facts

  • Guide name: Cycling the Canal du Midi
  • Location: France – southern Languedoc
  • Start point: Toulouse
  • End point: Sète, Mediterranean coast
  • Distance: 260km (162 miles)
  • Number of stages: 5 stages (40–63km/25–39 miles each)
  • Direction: West to east along the Canal du Midi towpath
  • Typical duration: 1 week
  • Difficulty: Suitable for all abilities; flat and largely car-free along the canal towpath, with optional slightly hillier excursions by road
  • Terrain: Canal towpath, minor roads, and optional excursion routes through the Languedoc countryside
  • Navigation/mapping: 1:200,000 maps and elevation profiles included for each stage
  • Accommodation & logistics: Comprehensive accommodation listings, stage planning tables, and practical notes on refreshments, cycle shops, and repair facilities along the route
  • Best time to go: Suitable all year round; spring and autumn offer ideal temperatures; summer is busier and hotter, but with local festivals and events; winter is quietest with Christmas markets along the route

Detailed overview

Cycle the Canal du Midi and follow one of southern France's most celebrated waterways, a UNESCO World Heritage route from the vibrant pink city of Toulouse to the sparkling shores of the Mediterranean at Sète, passing through a landscape of plane tree-lined towpaths, ancient locks, vineyards, and medieval towns. Flat, car-free, and taking around a week to complete, this route is suitable for beginners and experienced long-distance cyclists alike.

This comprehensive guidebook by author Declan Lyons describes the 260km (162-mile) route in 5 stages west to east, each between 40 and 63km (25–39 miles) in length. Optional excursions to nearby towns and countryside are also included, making it easy to tailor the trip to your interests and schedule.

Cycle the Canal du Midi in 5 manageable stages from Toulouse to Sète, following the flat, largely car-free towpath through the heart of the Languedoc, with each stage between 40 and 63km and completable in a single day
Explore beyond the canal with optional excursions to historic towns and villages, including Carcassonne, Narbonne, Minerve, and Béziers, adding cultural depth and variety to your cycling holiday
Navigate with confidence using 1:200,000 maps and elevation profiles included for each stage, giving you a clear picture of the route and terrain throughout your journey from Toulouse to the Mediterranean
Plan your trip with ease using handy stage planning tables, comprehensive accommodation listings, and practical notes on refreshments, cycle shops, and repair facilities along the Canal du Midi route
Discover the rich history, wildlife, and culture of the Languedoc with introductory sections covering the canal's remarkable engineering history, the varied landscapes and wildlife of the region, and the food and drink traditions of southern France


Plan your Canal du Midi cycling adventure with confidence using this trusted Cicerone guidebook. Immerse yourself in the landscapes, history, and culture of southern France on one of Europe's easier and most rewarding long-distance cycle routes.

Where and when to go

Seasons

Suitable all year round. Busier and hot in summer, but with lots going on; ideal temperatures but higher average rainfall in spring and autumn; quietest in winter, but with Christmas markets and fairs.

Centres

Toulouse, Carcassone, Beziers, Sète

Difficulty

Suitable for all abilities - flat and car-free along the canal with optional slightly hillier excursions by road if desired. Described in five stages to fit within a week's holiday.

Must See

Historic towns and cities: Ancient Greek Agde, Roman Narbonne, Toulouse, the 'Rose City', Carcassonne's 12th-century fortified Cité. Real French culture of La France Profonde, including myriad local festivals. Varied countryside with a wide range of animals and plants.

Table of contents

Map key
Overview map
INTRODUCTION
Regions of the canal
History
Wildlife
Culture
Cycling the Canal du Midi
When to go
Getting there and getting around
Accommodation
Food and drink
Your bike
What to take
Cycling the towpath
Health and safety
Weather
Maps
Money and communications
Using this guide
THE CANAL DU MIDI
Stage 1 Toulouse to Port Lauragais
Stage 2 Port Lauragais to Carcassone
Excursion 1 From Criminelle lock to St-Ferr&##xe9;ol reservoir
Stage 3 Carcassone to Homps
Excursion 2 From Tr&##xe8;bes to Lastours
Excursion 3 From Homps to Minerve
Stage 4 Homps to B&##xe9;ziers
Excursion 4 To Narbonne and Port la Nouvelle
Stage 5 B&##xe9;ziers to S&##xe8;te
Excursion 5 To Vendres salt lagoon
Excursion 6 Across Portiragnes marshes to S&##xe9;rignan
Appendix A Stage planning tables
Appendix B Accommodation
Appendix C Useful information
Appendix D English-French glossary
Appendix E Further reading

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781852847845
AvailabilityPublished
Published10 May 2017
Reprinted28 September 2022
Weight 220g

eBook

The complete digital edition of the guidebook, with full route descriptions, accommodation listings, profiles and maps, ready to use on any device.

Updates

  1. Updated

    Updates

    24th Oct -

    Trains are beginning to get back to normal. There have been bus transfers between Carcassonne and Narbonne since last Tuesday. Some trains are now travelling that line and they should be back to normal by Monday. Note that those planning to use the train on this stretch of line should check in advance until Christmas to make sure that there isn't a bus substitute for continuing works - buses don't have room for or take bikes.

    The path too is recovering but there is still mud and water lying on it and in the surrounding area from Carcassonne to Béziers.

    The path between the bridge after Portiragnes and Agde is no longer recommended for cycling. Instead, follow the asphalt track as it swings right. Shortly afterwards, come to a cross roads with a road going left from the main road as you travel towards the beach plage). Cross the main road and follow a sign for Vias. Keep following signs for Vias as this minor road snakes through marsh, campsites and open fields. You pass Port Cassifieres on your right. Please take the spelling from the book as there is an accent grave on the first e). Continue taking a right turn following signs for Vias. You eventually come to a small track to the left that leads to the Libron works. Continue towards Vias crossing the bridge over the Libron. Pass the Europark on your left until you reach a junction which you go through towards the old stone bridge at Vias.

    The get from Vias to Agde, continue on the road on the southside of the canal. Cross over a bridge over a canal leading to the Mediterranean. Swing right and follow this small road as it twists and turns before heading north. Join a main road turning right D32E12), pass under a bridge carrying a major road D612) and veering slightly right come to a cycle path which will eventually lead to the banks of the Hérault river. Follow these upriver to the main bridge into the town and continue further if you wish to see Agde's round lock.

    16th Oct -

    Please be aware due to severe floodings the Canal du Midi canal towpath is not cyclable and is potentially very dangerous for the next few days at least.

Meet the author

Declan Lyons

Declan Lyons

View author


Declan Lyons has a lifelong passion for cycling and touring. He was bitten by the bug when, as a teenager in the 1960s, he explored the wilds of Connemara on a rusty three-speed Rudge bicycle. Since then he has toured extensively in Ireland and further afield, including regular trips from the Channel to the Mediterranean. Declan is an advocate of cycle touring – taking time on his cycles and relishing the nature, history and daily life all around. He has toured the region between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean extensively.