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Walking in the Southern Uplands

44 best hill days in southern Scotland

Guidebook to 44 varied day walks and over 100 summits in the Southern Uplands of Scotland, stretching south-west from Edinburgh to the English border, including the Galloway and Pentland Hills. Between 2 and 29km, there is something for all seasons and all abilities in remote and rugged hill country.

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Quick facts

  • Location: Scotland’s Southern Uplands, from Edinburgh to the English border, including the Galloway and Pentland Hills
  • Number of routes: 44 day walks
  • Distance: 3–29km (2–18 miles) per walk
  • Areas covered: Newton Stewart, Glentrool, Nithsdale, Biggar, Moffat, Peebles, Edinburgh, Kirk Yetholm
  • Route type: Circular and linear walks, from good paths to rugged, pathless terrain
  • Difficulty: Suitable for all walkers; from grassy rambles to strenuous hill days
  • Terrain: Rounded hills, moorland, grassy tops, remote glens, occasional rugged ground
  • Navigation: 1:50,000 OS map extracts and downloadable GPX files for each walk
  • Best season: Walks available year-round; April to June often offer the best weather
  • Highlights: Merrick (843m), Galloway Hills, Hart Fell, Devil’s Beeftub, Cheviot, Border Ridge, Pentland Hills, Arthur’s Seat, River Tweed
  • Equipment: Walking boots, weatherproof clothing, map or GPX device recommended
  • Facilities: Advice on public transport, parking, accommodation, local history, and tourist information included for each walk

Detailed overview

Explore the wild, untamed hills of Scotland’s Southern Uplands with 44 inspiring day walks covering over 100 summits between Edinburgh and the English border. From the green slopes of the Pentland Hills and the dramatic heights of Merrick to the mysteries of the Cheviots and the Border Ridge, these routes reveal a landscape of smooth classics and hidden surprises, perfect for year-round exploration and true hill-country solitude.

Ideal for walkers of all abilities, this comprehensive Cicerone guidebook features 44 routes ranging from 3 to 29km (2–18 miles), each designed to showcase the best of the Southern Uplands. Walks are easily accessed from Newton Stewart, Glentrool, Nithsdale, Biggar, Moffat, Peebles, Edinburgh, and Kirk Yetholm, offering both gentle grassy rambles and challenging high-level traverses across more than 80 hills above 600m (2000ft).

  • Experience the best of the Southern Uplands, from the wild heights of Merrick (843m) and the rugged Galloway Hills near Newton Stewart and Glentrool, to the dramatic slopes of Hart Fell and the Devil’s Beeftub above Moffat, the iconic summit of Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh, and the winding valleys of the River Tweed near Peebles and Biggar.
  • Enjoy year-round walking, with routes graded from easy paths in the Pentland Hills near Edinburgh to pathless, stamina-testing ascents in the Cheviots and remote Border Ridge above Kirk Yetholm. April to June often brings the clearest air and driest weather for exploring these diverse landscapes.
  • Choose from 44 varied routes, each with a 1:50,000 OS map extract, route summary, start and finish points, estimated walking time, ascent and maximum altitude, terrain and parking details, plus free downloadable GPX files for every walk. Walks are easily accessed from bases such as Newton Stewart, Glentrool, Nithsdale, Biggar, Moffat, Peebles, Edinburgh, and Kirk Yetholm.
  • Discover local history and hidden stories with expert advice on the Borders’ boundaries, the legacy of the Border reivers around the Tweed and Cheviot, tales of the Covenanters in the hills near Nithsdale and Moffat, and practical tips on transport, accommodation, and facilities throughout the Southern Uplands region.

Plan your Southern Uplands adventure with this definitive Cicerone guidebook and discover one of Scotland’s most distinctive and uncrowded hill regions at your own pace, in every season.

Where and when to go

Seasons

spring to autumn, plus winter days with good weather and snow conditions

Centres

Newton Stewart and Glentrool, Nithsdale (Dumfriesshire), Biggar, Moffat, Peebles, Edinburgh, Kirk Yetholm

Difficulty

hill walks below 900m, ranging from straightforward on good paths (Lowther Hill, Pentlands) to pathless and occasionally quite rugged (Kielder, Loch Enoch)

Must See

Merrick and the Galloway Hills, Hart Fell and Devil's Beeftub, White Coomb and Grey Mare's Tail waterfall, Pentland Hills, Arthur's Seat, Hen Hole of the Cheviot, River Tweed

Table of contents


Map key


Overview map


Introduction


Boundaries of the Borders


Real remoteness


Rolling – but also rocky


Lists of hills


Border reivers


The Covenanters


When to go


Transport


Accommodation


Tourist information and other facilities


Maps


Compass and GPS


Safety in the mountains


Using this guide


1 Galloway


Walk 1Girvan and Grey Hill


Walk 2Ailsa Craig


Walk 3Cairnsmore of Fleet


Walk 4Minnigaff Hills


Walk 5Merrick and Murder Hole


Walk 6The Dungeon Hills


Walk 7Rhinns of the Kells


Walk 8Cairnsmore of Carsphairn


Walk 9Screel Hill


2 Nithsdale and Lanarkshire


Walk 10Afton Water


Walk 11Criffel


Walk 12Queensberry


Walk 13Well Hill, Durisdeer


Walk 14Lowther Hill by Well and Enterkin passes


Walk 15Tinto


Walk 16Culter Fells


Walk 17Broughton Heights


3 Moffatdale


Walk 18Devil’s Beef Tub


Walk 19Ettrick Head


Walk 20Hart Fell


Walk 21White Coomb


Walk 22White Coomb and Hart Fell


Walk 23Loch of the Lowes and Ward Law


Walk 24The Wiss and St Mary’s Loch


4 Manor Hills to the Tweed


Walk 25Broad Law


Walk 26Manor Head


Walk 27Cademuir Hill and the Tweed


Walk 28Glen Sax Circuit


Walk 29Lee Pen and Windlestraw Law


Walk 30Three Brethren and Minch Moor


Walk 31Eildon Hills and the Tweed


Walk 32Rubers Law


5 Lothian


Walk 33Pentlands


Walk 34Arthur’s Seat


Walk 35Blackhope Scar


Walk 36Lammer Law


Walk 37Abbey St Bathans and Cockburn Law


Walk 38North Berwick Law


6 The Border Ridge to Cheviot


Walk 39Langholm Heights


Walk 40Cauldcleuch Head


Walk 41Peel Fell and Kielder Stone


Walk 42Hownam Law


Walk 43Windy Gyle


Walk 44The Cheviot and Hen Hole

Appendix AWalk summary table

Appendix BInformation and facilities by area

Appendix CScots glossary

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781852847401
AvailabilityPublished
Published10 November 2021
Reprinted30 November 2031
Weight 330g

eBook

The complete digital edition of the guidebook, with full route descriptions, accommodation listings, profiles and maps, ready to use on any device.

Updates

  1. Updated

    Route 11 Criffel

    This route has been hugely improved, by a well made path on the descent route from Criffel summit towards Ardwall, in progress winter 2020 and due for completion spring 2021. The ascent path from Mid Glen to Knockendoch is also being improved, for completion late summer 2021. The upgrade of the paths from soggy bog makes Criffel into one of S Scotland's most attractive hillwalks.

  2. Updated

    Route 8

    Route 8 is now obstructed by deer fencing on the slopes of Cairnsmore. The route can still be used over Moorbrock Hill to the bothy, with return by the track along the valley floor. Cairnsmore and Benninner can be accessed from the southwest at Green Well of Scotland, north of Carsphairn, using Route 19 in The Galloway Hills.

  3. Updated

    Rubers Law Walk 32

    Walk 32

    The original route up Rubers Law has been enclosed in high fencing for red deer – and these semi-wild animals are unsafe to walk among. The following route has been kindly suggested and approved by the farmer at Whitriggs.

    After passing along Denholm Dean, the track beyond it runs southwest to end at a lane. Turn left to the lane junction where the road to right is signed for Bonchester Bridge. However, keep ahead for another 50m. As the lane bends left, take a track ahead into a small wood. Cross a shallow ford to gates at the wood edge.

    Take the left-hand gate, and go uphill to left of a wall to a gate. In the next field, slant up left, north of east, to a wall gate. But the field has livestock, instead head left along its foot then up the side.) Through the gate, head up to left of the wall, through another gate and again to left of a wall. As the field opens out, slant up right to a gate at its top right corner. This leads into open, heathery ground. Pick your way among rocky outcrops to Rubers Law's summit trig point. Working round to the left to approach the summit from the north will let you arrive up a scrambly little cliff.)

    The hill's East flank now has deer fences too. The waymarked path has been renewed. On p185, 2nd full paragraph, amend to:

    Head downhill to the right of a wall and reach a gated path beside a deer fence. Follow the waymarked path through two further gates into the woods on your left. At once take a signposted track downhill into the plantation, to reach a T-junction just above the Rule valley road.

  4. Updated

    Walk 15 Ford to Roughting Linn

    Walkers should note that the crags on Goatscrag Hill hold some well defined and intriguing rock carvings. To find them, take a faint bracken path along the foot of the crag, to find the rock shelter at NT 9771 3701. The four carved animals are of no definite species, though one does resemble a camel. They're dated to either the Romano-British or the early Mediaeval times – making this a walk with five different ages of remains.

    Thanks to reader Mick Borroff for these updates.

  5. Updated

    Walk 25 Broad Law

    A new deer fence runs across the slope of Hog Hill above Hearthstane. It may be possible to get through this by following the contouring track to the left east) – if you should verify this, do get in touch with Cicerone!

    Page 145-6 paragraph 2 amend to:

    Continue straight uphill, soon meeting a contouring track and following this to the right below some masts through a gate into the forest. Turn up left up the forest edge, following the fence all the way up to cross a ladder stile onto open hill at the minor summit of Hog Hill.

  6. Updated

    Walk 25 Broad Law

    Paragraph 2: A contouring track is reached just above the valley floor with a radio mast above). There's a fresh planting involving a new deer fence crossing above the radio mast. This can be climbed, with some difficulty, but the alternative is to head to right along the track, to go up a faint quad bike track next to the older plantings. After a steep start the slope eases off towards Hog Hill summit, and there's a substantial stile in the deer fencing.

    (Thanks to Gordon Hodge and his friend Mick for the update.)

  7. Updated

    Walk 32

    A route over Rubers Law may be made without Denholm Dean).

    From Denholm, follow Borders Abbeys Way up SW to foot of plantation. Follow bottom edge of plantation SW to its corner, then follow field edges to E left) of a long plantation strip uphill. Turn R above its top then S to summit.Descend E, down to R of wall with clear-felled plantation behind it, then in track just inside woods, to junction just above Rule valley road. Take track W of N to Blaewearie, then pass along top of woodland below the house to stile into field. Follow BA Way back to Denholm.

  8. Updated

    Walk 32 Rubers Law

    The owner of Whitriggs farm has informed us that the part of the route that goes from the main road though the farm is no longer passable due to there being 2m high deer fencing. The gates are now padlocked for public safety due to the presence of red deer stags. Please do not attempt this part of the route.

    A route over Rubers Law may be made without Denholm Dean).

    From Denholm, follow Borders Abbeys Way up SW to foot of plantation. Follow bottom edge of plantation SW to its corner, then follow field edges to E left) of a long plantation strip uphill. Turn R above its top then S to summit. Descend E, down to R of wall with clear-felled plantation behind it, then in track just inside woods, to junction just above Rule valley road. Take track W of N to Blaewearie, then pass along top of woodland below the house to stile into field. Follow BA Way back to Denholm.

Meet the author

Ronald Turnbull

Ronald Turnbull

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Ronald Turnbull was born in St Andrews, Scotland, into an energetic fellwalking family. His grandfather was a president of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, and a more remote ancestor was distinguished as only the second climbing fatality in Snowdonia.

In 1995 Ronald won the Fell Running Association's Long-distance Trophy for a non-stop run over all the 2000ft hills of Southern Scotland; his other proud achievements include the ascent of the north ridge of the Weisshorn and a sub-2hr Ben Nevis race. He enjoys multi-day treks, through the Highlands in particular, and has made 21 different coast-to-coast crossings of the UK. He has also slept out, in bivvy bag rather than tent, on over 80 UK summits. Outside the UK he likes hot, rocky areas of Europe, ideally with beaches and cheap aeroplanes. Recently he achieved California's 220-mile John Muir Trail and East Lothian's 45-mile John Muir Way in a single season, believing himself the first to have achieved this slightly perverse double. He has also started trying to understand the geology of what he's been walking and climbing on for so long.

Ronald lives in the Lowther Hills of Dumfriesshire, and most of his walking, and writing, takes place in the nearby Lake District and in the Scottish Highlands. His recent books include The Book of the Bivvy, and walking/scrambling guides Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, The Cairngorms and Ben Nevis & Glen Coe, as well as Three Peaks Ten Tors - a slightly squint-eyed look at various UK challenge walks. He has nine times won Outdoor Writers & Photographers Guild Awards for Excellence for his guidebooks, outdoor books (including Book of the Bivvy), and magazine articles. He has a regular column in Lakeland Walker and also writes in Trail, Cumbria and TGO (The Great Outdoors). His current, hopelessly ambitious, project is to avoid completing the Munros for at least another 20 years. Ronald's weekly newsletter on mountains, hillwalking and history is at https://aboutmountains.substack.com/