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Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay

23 wild walks in the Southern Hebrides

Guidebook to Jura, Scarba, Islay and Colonsay in the Hebrides, describing 22 walks plus a 5-day 89km trek along Jura's remote west coast. The routes range from 6.5 to 25km and cover rough - and often pathless - terrain suitable for fit, competent walkers. Even the coastal walks offer challenges.

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Quick facts

  • Area: Southern Hebrides, Scotland
  • Islands covered: Jura, Islay, Colonsay, Oronsay, Scarba
  • Total walks: 23 (22 day walks plus one five-day trek)
  • Day walk distances: 7 to 25km (4 to 16 miles)
  • West coast trek: 89km (55 miles) over 5 days along Jura's remote west coast
  • Difficulty: Experienced walkers only — rough, often pathless terrain with no waymarks; strong navigation skills essential; Islay and Colonsay more accessible but still require navigational competence
  • Walk highlights: Paps of Jura, Gulf of Corryvreckan, Jura west coast trek, Cruach Scarba, Beinn Bheigier (Islay), Oronsay circuit, Kiloran Bay (Colonsay)
  • Bothies: Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy (Scarba); An Cladach bothy (Islay); Glengarrisdale and Cruib Lodge (Jura)
  • Wild camping: Notes and recommendations throughout
  • Mapping: 1:50,000 OS maps included for every walk
  • Centres: Jura — Craighouse, Feolin, Ardlussa; Islay — Port Askaig, Port Ellen, Bowmore; Colonsay — Scalasaig; Scarba — Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy
  • Travel information: Ferry connections, inter-island transport and accommodation covered in full
  • Best time to visit: Spring and autumn; summer midges and bracken can be problematic; winter wet and wild with short days

Detailed overview

Jura, Islay and Colonsay sit at the wilder, less visited end of the Hebridean island chain. Jura, in particular, is one of the last genuinely remote walking destinations in the British Isles, with a roadless west coast, the iconic triple summits of the Paps of Jura, and the notorious whirlpool of Corryvreckan drawing walkers seeking something well beyond the ordinary.

This comprehensive Cicerone guidebook by Peter Edwards covers 22 day walks and one five-day 89km (55-mile) trek along Jura's remote west coast, across Jura, Islay, Colonsay, Oronsay and Scarba. With routes suitable for fit, experienced walkers comfortable with rough, often pathless terrain, the guidebook provides clear route descriptions and 1:50,000 OS mapping with practical information on bothies, wild camping, accommodation and island transport throughout.

22 day walks and one five-day 89km west coast trek are included across five islands, with day walks ranging from 7 to 25km and suitable for experienced walkers comfortable with challenging, waymark-free terrain
The Paps of Jura, one of the finest and most demanding hill walking challenges in the southern Hebrides, is covered in full with a complete route description and mapping
1:50,000 OS mapping is provided for every walk, with detailed notes on navigation across Jura and Islay's often pathless terrain, where strong map and compass skills are essential
Bothy and wild camping information throughout, with notes on locations, conditions and access across all five islands, including the Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy on Scarba
Comprehensive island logistics, covering ferry connections to and between Jura, Islay, Colonsay and Scarba, public transport, accommodation and the best time to visit each island


Peter Edwards has lived in the Hebrides for years and brings an intimate, first-hand knowledge of these islands to every route in this guidebook. Jura, Islay and Colonsay reward every walker who makes the crossing, and

Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay

ensures you make the most of every step.

Where and when to go

Seasons

Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit, though these routes can be walked all year round. Winter can be wet and wild with short days, and in summer midges and bracken can be a real problem.

Centres

JURA - Feolin, Craighouse, Tarbert, Ardlussa, Kinuachdrachd, Glengarrisdale, Ruantallain, Cruib, Glenbatrick Bay
ISLAY - Port Askaig, Port Ellen, Port Charlotte, Bowmore, Bridgend, Ballygrant, Bunnahabhain, Ardbeg
COLONSAY - Scalasaig, Oronsay, Kilchattan, Kiloran
SCARBA - Kilmory Lodge, Gleann a' Mhaoil bothy

Difficulty

The west coast of Jura walk, a round of the Paps or an ascent of Cruach Scarba should only be considered by fit, experienced walkers with strong navigational skills, as there are no waymarks and no footpaths. Walking on Islay and Colonsay is more accessible, but still requires navigational competence. All walkers should be equipped for rough terrain and wet weather.

Must See

The wild and remote west coast of Jura - one of the British Isles' last great wilderness walks, with spectacular geological formations and abundant wildlife; the Paps of Jura - a rough, tough hill-walking classic; dramatic land and seascapes from the Islay and Colonsay coasts; the small-island summit of Cruach Scarba, rising from the sea between the infamous tidal races of Corryvreckan and the Grey Dog

Table of contents

Map key
Overview map

Introduction
Jura
Islay
Colonsay
History
Geology
Wildlife
Getting to the Southern Hebrides
Getting between the islands
The routes
Maps and route-finding
Safety and emergencies
What to take
Using this guide

Jura
Walk 1 The Gulf of Corryvreckan
Walk 2 Road End to Glengarrisdale
Walk 3 The west coast walk
Day 1 Ardlussa or Kinuachdrachd to Glengarrisdale
Day 2 Glengarrisdale to Shian Bay
Day 3 Shian Bay to Cruib Lodge
Day 4 Cruib Lodge to Glenbatrick Bay
Day 5 Glenbatrick Bay to Feolin Ferry
Day 5A Glenbatrick Bay to the A846 via Glen Batrick
Walk 4 North Jura coast and glens
Walk 5 Tarbert to Cruib Lodge bothy
Walk 6 Glengarrisdale to Cruib across Jura's northern hills
Walk 7 Ardlussa to Corpach Bay and Am Miadar
Walk 8 The Paps of Jura
Walk 9 Evans' Walk to Glenbatrick Bay and return
Walk 10 Glas Bheinn and Dubh Bheinn

Scarba
Walk 11 Cruach Scarba

Islay
Walk 12 Rhuvaal and the north-west coast
Walk 13 An Cladach, McArthur's Head and the Sound of Islay
Walk 14 An Cladach-Beinn Bheigier circuit
Walk 15 Beinn na Caillich and Beinn Bheigier from Ardtalla
Walk 16 The Oa peninsula
Walk 17 Sanaigmore to Kilchiaran
Walk 18 Ardnave Point

Colonsay
Walk 19 Around Oronsay
Walk 20 South Colonsay coast
Walk 21 Lower Kilchattan to Kiloran Bay
Walk 22 North Colonsay coast
Walk 23 Scalasaig to Kiloran Bay along the Old Road

Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Walks on other islands
Appendix C Useful contacts
Appendix D Glossary
Appendix E Further reading

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781852849795
AvailabilityPublished
Published6 August 2019
Pages240
Weight 270g

eBook

The complete digital edition of the guidebook, with full route descriptions, accommodation listings, profiles and maps, ready to use on any device.

Updates

  1. Updated

    An Cladach bothy - Walks 13 and 14

    Having been closed during the pandemic, the bothy will re-open under Dunlossit Estate management at some point in 2022 - under a booking system, for a nominal fee.

  2. Updated

    Colonsay overnight parking

    27 August 2021

    COLONSAY

    We're grateful for this information from Chris Kempster.

    'There is a real problem for backpackers/wild campers as there is literally not a single place to park on the island that won't offend landowners or the council laybys) - as the CalMac car park is currently closed.

    Of course you could just go as a foot passenger on the ferry, but there is absolutely no information about the issue of parking on either the CalMac website or the Colonsay tourist website.

    The problem is related to OVERNIGHT parking, for those intending to spend a few days on the island backpacking. There is limited parking for day-trippers.

  3. Updated

    Walks 3 and 7

    Walk 3

    Day 4, p82, first para:

    It is no longer safe or advisable to attempt to walk across the dam at Cairidh Mhor so walk around the lochan instead

    Walk 7

    p109, first para:

    The bridge over the outflow of the Fishing Loch has been removed for safety reasons and the bridge over the Allt Grundale has been swept away. Please use the following directions at the start of the walk instead:

    If driving, cross the bridge over the Lussa River, turn sharply left and park on the grassy area a short way along the track; let the estate know if you’re leaving a car there overnight. Return to the road and turn right to recross the bridge. After 200 metres turn left down a track, soon passing a large shed. The metalled track runs out shortly before reaching a stand of trees, bear left to follow the ATV tracks across the often boggy moorland. Climb steadily along the southwestern side of Glen Grundale, following the more distinct ATV tracks winding through the rough moorland landscape.

Meet the author

Since moving to Scotland from the south of England in 2006, Peter has developed a passion for the Hebrides. He lives at Rhenigidale on the Isle of Harris with his wife, Fiona, and their Labradors, Dougal and Mara.