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Walking the Galloway Hills

35 wild mountain walks including the Merrick

Guidebook describing mountain walks in the Galloway Hills of southern Scotland, covering Trool, Minnoch, Doon and Talnotry. Offering solitude and rugged natural beauty, this rocky, heathery wilderness presents some great hiking opportunities suitable for experienced hillwalkers. Includes summaries of longer backpack/bothy trips.

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Quick facts

  • Area: Galloway Hills, Dumfries and Galloway, Southern Scotland
  • Designation: Galloway Forest Park; UNESCO Biosphere Reserve; UK's first designated dark sky park
  • Total walks: 35 (34 day walks and one long-distance route)
  • Walk distances: 4 to 33km (2 to 20 miles)
  • Walk duration: 2 to 11 hours
  • Long-distance route: 82km (53 miles) over 3 days
  • Grades: 1 to 5 (1 = good paths; 5 = rugged pathless ground)
  • Difficulty: Suitable for experienced hillwalkers; some shorter and easier routes included
  • Summits: 28 tops over 2000ft including the Merrick (843m), highest point in the Southern Uplands; 4 Corbetts
  • Areas covered: Glen Trool, the Awful Hand, Loch Doon, the Glenkens, Talnotry
  • Walk highlights: Merrick and Rig of the Buchan, the Awful Hand, Craignaw, Cairnsmore of Fleet, Cairnsmore of Carsphairn
  • Bothies: Dedicated appendix covering bothy locations across the area
  • Mapping: 1:50,000 OS maps included for every walk
  • Digital navigation: Downloadable GPX files included
  • Best time to visit: March to June and September; winter walking possible but requires experience and appropriate equipment
  • Centres: Newton Stewart, Glentrool village, Loch Trool, Dalmellington, Carsphairn, St John's Town of Dalry

Detailed overview

The Galloway Hills are southern Scotland's best-kept secret, a vast, roadless granite wilderness of heather ridges, peat bogs, dark lochs and ancient oakwood that sees a fraction of the footfall of the Highlands yet rivals them for rugged natural beauty. At their heart stands the Merrick, the highest point in the Southern Uplands at 843m, alongside 27 other tops over 2000ft, four Corbetts and the UK's first designated dark sky park.

This trusted Cicerone guidebook by Ronald Turnbull covers 34 day walks and one long-distance route across the Galloway Hills, with walks ranging from 4 to 33km (2 to 20 miles) and graded 1 to 5 to suit a range of experience levels. Route descriptions are paired with 1:50,000 OS mapping and downloadable GPX files, with detailed planning information, bothy locations and the fascinating history of this little-known corner of Scotland throughout.

34 day walks and one 82km (53-mile) long-distance route across the Galloway Hills are included, covering Glen Trool, the Awful Hand, Loch Doon, the Glenkens and Talnotry, with walks taking between 2 and 11 hours
Walks are graded from 1 to 5 to reflect the full range of terrain of Dumfries and Galloway, from well-laid paths to rugged, pathless granite ground, making this guidebook useful for walkers of varying experience
1:50,000 OS mapping and downloadable GPX files are included for every walk, essential for navigating terrain where paths are faint or absent, and remote ground demands good map and compass skills
Bothy information and longer expedition options allow routes to be combined into multi-day backpacking trips, with a dedicated appendix covering bothy locations across the area
Rich historical and natural context throughout, covering the geology, wildlife, ancient oakwood, Galloway Forest Park and the area's remarkable medieval history as a centre of guerrilla warfare


For experienced hillwalkers seeking a lesser-known alternative to the Highland crowds, the Galloway Hills deliver in every way. From the summit of the Merrick to remote corners, this guidebook is the ultimate companion for exploring one of Scotland's most rewarding and underrated hiking areas.

Where and when to go

Seasons

January to December. Ideal months March to June, and September. Winter can be serious with untrodden snowfields, but good for those suitably equipped and skilled.

Centres

Newton Stewart; Glen Trool (Glentrool village and Loch Trool); Dalmellington (Ayrshire); Carsphairn and St John's Town of Dalry (Glenkens).

Difficulty

The hill ground has small paths or none at all. The higher ridges give good grassy walking. Mid-level granite ground is rugged with bare rock and peaty grass, and is remote. Lower ground has some well laid paths. Walks are graded from 1 (good paths) to 5 (rugged pathless ground).

Must See

Galloway Forest Park;
Merrick, high point of Southern Uplands;
28 tops over 2000ft (600m) with 4 Corbetts (2500ft / 750m);
Granite heartland with 31 lochs and lochans;
Rivers ancient oakwood;
UK's first dark sky park;
Guerilla warfare centre of the 14th century

Table of contents

Map key Overview map Introduction Harshness and heather Geology of the Galloway Hills Wildlife and wet Free Forest of Buchan Forest park and biosphere Climbing and scrambling When to walk Getting here, getting around, staying the night Maps and GPS Safety in the hills Using this book Section 1: Glen Trool Route 1 Water of Minnoch and Glen Trool Route 2 Water of Trool Route 3 Around Loch Trool Route 4 Fell of Eschoncan to Bennan Route 5 Merrick and Rig of the Buchan Route 6 The Three Lochs Route 7 Craignaw Route 8 Craiglee and Rig of the Jarkness Route 9 Mulldonoch to Curleywee Route 10 Caldron of the Merrick Section 2: The Awful Hand Route 11 Kirriereoch Hill and Merrick Route 12 The Awful Hand: Shalloch to Benyellary Route 13 Shalloch on Minnoch Route 14 Craigmasheenie and Shiel Hill Section 3: Loch Doon Route 15 Craiglee of Doon Route 16 Hoodens Hill and Mullwharchar Route 17 Northern Rhinns of Kells from Loch Doon Section 4: The Glenkens Route 18 Garryhorn and the northern Rhinns of Kells Route 19 Cairnsmore of Carsphairn Route 20 Craig of Knockgray Route 21 Corserine from Forrest Lodge Route 22 Southern Rhinns of Kells Route 23 Mulloch Hill Route 24 Waterside Hill Route 25 Dunveoch Section 5: Talnotry and the south Route 26 Larg Hill to Curleywee Route 27 Curleywee by Stronbae Hill Route 28 Millfore Route 29 Cairnsmore of Fleet from the north Route 30 Cairnsmore of Fleet from the south Route 31 Clints of Dromore Route 32 Knockman Wood Route 33 The Thieves Stones Route 34 Wood of Cree Section 6: Expeditions Route 35 Not the Southern Upland Way Other routes Appendix A Route summary table Appendix B The bothies Appendix C Information points

Which format is best for me?

Printed book

A guidebook with detailed route descriptions, stage breakdowns, accommodation listings, profiles and maps — everything you need on the trail.

ISBN9781786310101
AvailabilityPublished
Published15 July 2019
Reprinted24 February 2025
Weight 240g

eBook

The complete digital edition of the guidebook, with full route descriptions, accommodation listings, profiles and maps, ready to use on any device.

Updates

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Meet the author

Ronald Turnbull

Ronald Turnbull

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Ronald Turnbull was born in St Andrews, Scotland, into an energetic fellwalking family. His grandfather was a president of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, and a more remote ancestor was distinguished as only the second climbing fatality in Snowdonia.

In 1995 Ronald won the Fell Running Association's Long-distance Trophy for a non-stop run over all the 2000ft hills of Southern Scotland; his other proud achievements include the ascent of the north ridge of the Weisshorn and a sub-2hr Ben Nevis race. He enjoys multi-day treks, through the Highlands in particular, and has made 21 different coast-to-coast crossings of the UK. He has also slept out, in bivvy bag rather than tent, on over 80 UK summits. Outside the UK he likes hot, rocky areas of Europe, ideally with beaches and cheap aeroplanes. Recently he achieved California's 220-mile John Muir Trail and East Lothian's 45-mile John Muir Way in a single season, believing himself the first to have achieved this slightly perverse double. He has also started trying to understand the geology of what he's been walking and climbing on for so long.

Ronald lives in the Lowther Hills of Dumfriesshire, and most of his walking, and writing, takes place in the nearby Lake District and in the Scottish Highlands. His recent books include The Book of the Bivvy, and walking/scrambling guides Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, The Cairngorms and Ben Nevis & Glen Coe, as well as Three Peaks Ten Tors - a slightly squint-eyed look at various UK challenge walks. He has nine times won Outdoor Writers & Photographers Guild Awards for Excellence for his guidebooks, outdoor books (including Book of the Bivvy), and magazine articles. He has a regular column in Lakeland Walker and also writes in Trail, Cumbria and TGO (The Great Outdoors). His current, hopelessly ambitious, project is to avoid completing the Munros for at least another 20 years. Ronald's weekly newsletter on mountains, hillwalking and history is at https://aboutmountains.substack.com/