Border Country Cycle Routes
Border Country Cycle Routes
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£9.00
11. Lindisfarne
Distance: 27 miles
OS Map: Landranger 75
Start: Spittal
Grade: 2
Surface: road - 18 miles/ track - 7 miles/ path - 2 miles
A coastal route on tracks and bridleways that crosses the causeway to Holy Island, or Lindisfarne. Since the causeway is under water at high tide you will need to check beforehand and make sure that you’ve got enough time to get on and off the island. The Tourist Information Office in Berwick will be able to tell you when the road is open.
The walled town of Berwick at the mouth of the Tweed has had a more turbulent history than most and it has, in fact, changed hands between Scotland and England a dozen or more times. A good view of the town, and of the Royal Border Bridge which spans the Tweed, can be had from the south bank of the river near where this route starts.
At the mouth of the river, and opposite the pier in Berwick, is a small car park out on the point at (005 521). From here it’s just a couple of minutes to the promenade at Spittal, and if you follow this along as far as the last house, you’ll find a surfaced track on the right. This takes you up onto the low cliffs and gives good views back to Berwick. To the south you can pick out Lindisfarne and to its right the outline of Bamburgh Castle.
The grassy track continues for a couple of miles to join a road at Sea House which runs parallel to the beach. A mile or so down here brings you to a small car park by an old wartime pill box. Take the track round to the right of this and go through a gate into the nature reserve. Sand dunes are on your left as the track heads southeast and past a small lake. Stop at a ‘crossroads’ by a bridge over the railway after a mile.
Because there is a golf course further on it is recommended that you skirt it to avoid any potential problems. It might be possible to head onto the beach and either push for a while or, depending on the tide, find firm sand to cycle on. If that doesn’t appeal then you need to cross the bridge and head slightly uphill to Cheswick. When you get there take the left turn which brings you on the road running down to the golf course clubhouse.
A mile further on is Goswick farm. The road continues to a caravan site and there is, in fact, a path which follows the coastline round to the causeway. Unfortunately since it’s a path, rather than a bridleway, you can’t cycle it. Instead take the track on the right, going inland to cross the main east coast rail line. This is an unmanned level crossing so do take great care and read the warning notice before opening the gate.
Cross the rail line, then, and turn left to run alongside it until you meet the Lindisfarne access road near Beal. When you get to the causeway there’s a small parking area and a notice listing the safe crossing times.
If the weather is on your side then it’s easy to spend some time on Lindisfarne. The first monastery was founded by St Aidan in about 635 AD while work on the priory started in 1093. There’s also the castle, shops, pubs and the north of the island is a haven for wildlife. Try some of the Holy Island mead…but keep an eye on the tide if you do!
While it’s certainly possible to retrace the same route there is an inland diversion for the return journey or, at least, part of it. It goes via Haggerston Castle and some bridleways. Make sure you have a decent map because these trails aren’t used very much and the route isn’t always obvious. That, however, is one of its attractions in my view, and it’s also an opportunity to do what you can to make sure that they don’t fall into disuse.
Take the main road off the island and carry on to where it meets the main A1 at the Plough Inn. There really isn’t much choice here but to cycle on the main road for a mile and a bit to Haggerston Castle. Although quite a fine building, the castle and grounds have been developed as a sort of ‘fun park’ for children. Incidentally, what looks on the map like a possible route alongside the railway line and into the ‘back’ of the castle doesn’t go – padlocked gates etc.
So, go past the main entrance to the castle – unless you want to go in, that is – and take the ‘Picnic Area’ turning. There’s a phone box and although a sign says ‘residents only’ this is, in fact, a public bridleway so go ahead. Turn left just as you come to a high red brick wall. A few yards along here, as you pass some cottages on the left, go straight ahead looking for a small gate with a blue ‘bridleway’ sign on it. Go through this, and a couple of others, and follow the right edge of a field. At the far end there’s another gate that brings you out by a cattle grid.
Look ahead and diagonally over to your left to spot the next gate. The route goes along the left edge of a field now, aiming for a small stone bridge. Cross the bridge, go sharp right then sharp left, following a track that leads past a wind pump and up towards some farm buildings. As you reach the buildings take the track to pass the cottages on your right. This enters a field following the left side to continue into yet another field. When I was there, this second field had recently been ploughed and sown, but the route actually goes straight across the middle of it, through a hedgerow, and straight across the middle of the next field as well to reach a gate with the familiar ‘bridleway’ sign. Looking ahead you’ll see the obvious Ladythorne House – the route passes in front of this and goes up to join the road. Turn right and then left to join the outward route.
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