Scotland's Far West - A Walking Guidebook
Scotland's Far West
Price
£10.00
When researching our last guidebook, North to the Cape, we spent many happy days in the West Highlands of Scotland, often passing through Fort William on the way to our research destinations.
On one of our trips it occurred to us that, despite our many kilometres afoot, there were two corners of Scotland within reach of Fort William that we had never fully investigated. These were the Isle of Mull and that most westerly part of the British mainland, Ardnamurchan.
So we went on an exploratory visit with no book in mind. We were so enchanted with these places, however, that we soon realised the potential for one. This guide (in which Morvern, Ardgour, Sunart and Ardnamurchan have been grouped, for convenience, under the heading ‘Ardnamurchan’) is the result of three pleasant years’ work and we hope that you will get much pleasure from reading it. We hope too that you will enjoy the walks.
On Mull and on the mainland, we discovered that there are many routes shown on OS maps and published in guides and leaflets. In this guidebook we have chosen the ones we enjoyed the most, and make no excuse for including several walks which might be considered classics, simply because they are too good to miss.
We cover three kinds of walk: circular walks, walks which go out and return at the halfway mark, and those which travel from A to B (linear walks). At the risk of stating the obvious, the linear walks will require pick-up arrangements or a two-car preparation session.
We have described a good mix ranging from easy strolls, which may take half a day or so, to fairly long day walks, including one or two which will stretch your abilities. Fit and experienced walkers should be able to complete all the routes, and we have indicated in the text those areas requiring extra care.
On some walks we have mentioned ‘other paths’. Where sensible, destinations of some connecting paths are pointed out, especially at important intersections. We do not expect walkers to slavishly follow our routes step by step. We do expect walkers – as we do – to explore, making full use of maps and navigational skills.
Much has been written elsewhere about the history, natural history and geology of these areas, so we chose not to repeat most of this: after all, this is a guidebook, not a travel book. We have, however, included some information in the introductions to walks where we think it will be of particular interest.
We enjoy walking in the countryside, rather than through it, tramping around happily rather than trying to break records. We’ve lost count of the number of days spent in exploring the British Isles, especially the north of England and Scotland. It’s not only the walking we enjoy, but also the navigation, mapwork, sorting out a good route, staying in both smart hotels with gourmet food and in more humble establishments. We enjoy the downing of a good pint, perhaps with a dram, in a friendly inn; a wayside chat with a passer-by.
During our walking career, we have visited and been impressed by many magnificent mountain areas around the world. But each time we visit the West Highlands of Scotland and, in particular, Scotland’s Far West, we are reminded that this area cannot be surpassed for its hills and glens, its lakes, rivers and lochs, its remoteness and its beauty. For us it remains the best.
Denis Brook and Phil Hinchliffe
General Information
Getting about
There are bus services available in Scotland’s Far West, but they are rural in scope rather than urban, so we recommend the use of private transport to access the walks. Indeed, this is the only way to get to some of them.
In order to utilise your time fully the use of a motor vehicle or motor cycle is essential. Ways of accessing Mull and the mainland are described in the introductions to each area.
Petrol stations are few and far between, so note their location and keep your fuel tank topped up. Remember that some garages may not accept credit cards, and some may not be open on Sundays and/or may have restricted hours in general.
Accommodation
By their very nature, the walks in this book start and finish in areas where accommodation may be limited or non-existent, hence the need not only for transport but also for carefully planning your overnight stays. You may decide to stay in one centre and do several walks from there, or you may wish to travel around to be as near as possible to a group of walks. We have based the walks in this guidebook on Tobermory, Craignure and Bunessan (near Fionnphort) on Mull, and Lochaline, Strontian and Salen on the mainland, but you can always work out your own itinerary.
On Mull, there is accommodation to suit all tastes in Tobermory and on Iona. There is limited accommodation in Craignure, including a hotel, an inn and the Pennygate Lodge guest house, originally a manse, tucked away behind a garage-cum-shop near the old pier. There is also limited accommodation at Bunessan, as well as in many of the hamlets and villages. On the mainland, Strontian has good accommodation, including the Ben View Hotel, about 1.5km west of the village. There is limited accommodation at Salen and Lochaline and elsewhere. We advise you to make full use of publications listing such facilities and also to use the Tourist Information Centres (TICs – see Appendix II Useful Addresses). Not all accommodation is listed in the publications or registered with the TICs, as evidenced by many roadside notices offering this service.
Equipment
We would not presume to dictate what to wear and what to put into your rucksack. However, a few comments may be helpful. We recommend that you wear strong, but not heavy, waterproof boots. Unless the weather (see below) is exceptionally favourable, you are likely to get wet. We have always been of the opinion that boots are the most important part of any walker’s kit; get them wrong and your walk and possibly your physical safety could be in jeopardy.
Bivouac gear (at the least a bivibag) should always be carried in case of an emergency overnight stop. Warm inner clothing and waterproof outer clothing should always be with you; the weather can, and does, change (and worsen) dramatically.
As none of our walks involve (intended) overnight camps, you may neglect to carry emergency rations. This could prove to be a problem if, for whatever reason, any member of your party gets stranded or injured; emergency rations are essential.
Clearly, all mountain walkers should carry a compass and appropriate maps (see ‘Maps and navigation’ below) and know how to use them. First aid kits should be carried at all times.
Maps and navigation
In this guide, the maps are reproductions from the OS 1:50,000 series with north at the top and, together with the map notes, should be adequate for you to complete any of the walks. That said, we do urge you to carry the OS maps appropriate to the area. Our maps, of necessity, only cover a narrow band; the OS maps – especially the 1:25,000 series – will give you the full picture and, of course, allow you to deviate safely from the published route should you so wish. Also, you will be able to identify points of interest not available on the guide maps.
The spelling of place names in the text is that shown on OS, but inevitably local variations will occur. For the more hilly walks, we have included height profile diagrams showing the approximate altitude along the route. These may help you to plan your walk more effectively.
During the stalking season (usually September/October, but also at other times) some routes may be closed (see Appendix III Public Rights of Way). In this event, notices may be displayed giving advice on alternative routes, or suggesting that you contact the estate office. It’s worth remembering that stalking seldom takes place on a Sunday.
On our research trips we used a GPS (Global Positioning System) navigator as an aid to establishing exact locations. In cloud, or any condition where visibility was severely reduced, or even on a bleak, featureless moorland, it proved very effective. If you carry one of these instruments, it is absolutely critical that you review and thoroughly understand all aspects of the operating instructions. Your instinct, coupled with your map reading and compass work, should tell you roughly where you are at all times. If the navigator appears to tell you something vastly different it is probably due to an error in usage. Remember: check, check and check again.
Do not underestimate the time required to do a walk. You will know your own walking speed and you may be used to applying Naismith’s Rule, and perhaps Trantor’s Variations, to calculate the time required to walk a particular route. We think that Naismith is too simple and Trantor is too complicated. When walking in the Highlands, our rule of thumb is:
- 3km per hour, plus a half hour for every 5km as measured on the map (for walking, photography, map consultation, brief refreshments and admiring the view).
- A 10km walk will take 10/3 + 1hr = 4hr 20min
- A 15km walk will take 15/3 + 1.5hr = 6hr 30min.
This Brook and Hinchliffe Rule works out at about 2.3km per hour. Always overestimate the time required. It is better to arrive a little early, than too late in the day when the light might be fading. All distances in the text are as measured on the relevant OS map; real distances will, of course, be greater due to ascents and descents and variations to avoid difficulties and so on.
There are no rights of way shown on OS maps of Scotland (see Appendix III Public Rights of Way). Contrary to popular supposition, rights of way do exist, and are sometimes shown on signs erected by the Scottish Rights of Way and Access Society. Tales about access problems in Scotland abound, but we have never encountered real difficulties.
Be extra careful when walking on or near the seashore. Tide tables are available from TICs and most hotels, inns and guest houses have copies on display. As a lot of walks in this guide start, and sometimes finish, at sea level; you may climb further than if you were conquering a Munro. Ben More, on Mull, is a classic example of this (and is the only Munro in the Scottish Islands).
Weather
Make no mistake about it: Mull is one of the wettest places in the British Isles. The mainland can be pretty wet too. Do not assume that it will be fine tomorrow, or the next day, or the next. We have known 14 consecutive days of sunshine in Scotland. On the other hand, we have known 14 consecutive days on which it has rained most of the time. Your chances of getting wet are pretty high. Assume (like us) that it will rain, and look on it as a bonus if it doesn’t.
However, going by the statistics, the best time to walk is in April or May. Be aware of the faint possibility of snow on the high tops in April. Avoid July or August because of possible accommodation problems and the likelihood of the dreaded Scottish midges and clegs. September, October and November can be relatively fine, but remember that some routes may be diverted because of stalking activities. It can be beneficial to take note of television and/or radio weather forecasts, and the local ones can turn out to be quite accurate. Forecasts are usually displayed in the TICs, who will also provide numbers for telephone weather forecasts.
Recent articles:
Related titles:
Frequently Asked Questions:
