Scotland's Far West - A Walking Guidebook

34 mountain walks in Scotland's far-west peninsula and the island of Mull. Covers Mull, Morvern, Ardnamurchan and Ardgour. Routes include ascents of summits of Ben More, Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Beinn Resipol, Ben Hiant and Ben Laga.

View Sample Route Map

Walk 1 - Ardmore Point

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Start: Estate car park Tobermory to Glengorm road (455566)
Finish: Forest Enterprise car park near the Tobermory to Glengorm road (486557)
Distance: 10.5km (6.5 miles)
Route features: Mostly well-defined forestry tracks and paths, with optional undefined section along rough sea-shore
OS map: Explorer 374 Isle of Mull North & Tobermory (East Sheet)

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During Dr Johnson’s travels on Mull in 1773 he was moved to comment that there was little forest area to be seen, and that still seems to be so today. Forest Enterprise owns about 16,000 hectares, around 18 per cent of the total area of the island. The forest at Ardmore is, in the main, mature sitka spruce currently being harvested. When replanting takes place, redesign will ensure more broadleaves to encourage an increase in wildlife and soften the forest boundaries. Please look out for forestry operations during your walk and take note of all written and verbal advice.

To reach the start of the walk, take the Tobermory to Glengorm road westerly and, after about 5km, the estate car park will be seen on the right. The forest is entered after a short walk down a track across a field.

The first part of the walk is through tall trees, but from the clearings you will catch glimpses of the sea and Ardnamurchan. Penalbanach (Pennyland) is the first ruined farm you will see (E). The original hamlet of the same name was cleared to create a farm, which was worked until the 1930s before being abandoned.

Bloody Bay
Before reaching the end of the walk, a little scramble up a steep forest track (L) will reveal a superb viewing point high above the waters of Bloody Bay in the Sound. History records that in 1482 the waters of the sea ran red with blood as John McDonald, the last Lord of the Isles, engaged in a fearsome sea battle with his illegitimate son Angus. Many were slaughtered, but Angus was victorious.

Reaching the shore at Ardmore Bay (F), listed as a safe temporary anchorage for seagoers, a small hide affords the opportunity for bird and seal watching.

Tide permitting (see H in the route notes), a visit to Ardmore Point Light (I) is rewarding. Marking the northern entrance of the Sound of Mull, the beam can be seen for 13km. There are uninterrupted views north to Kilchoan on the Ardnamurchan mainland, west to Coll, northwest to Barra and South Uist in the Outer Hebrides, and southeast along the Sound.

Leaving the sea, you will soon arrive at the ruined hamlet of Ardmore (the Large Promontory). As with Penalbanach, this was abandoned in the 1930s. The remains of the school, which had about 30 pupils and presumably served both communities, lie a little further along the forest trail.

A short walk will bring you back to another car park near the Glengorm road, about 2km from Tobermory.

Route notes
A     Leave the car park through the gate, to descend on the well-defined track. Keep right at the fork lower down.

B     Enter the forest. The track continues to be well defined. Keep ahead all the way.

C     The track (really a forest road) twists and turns around the gullies and spurs with the occasional view out to sea.

D     The forest road descends gently. At the bend there are fine views N.

E     At the junction, turn left. The remains of Penalbanach are visible on the right. Descend on the track/path.

F     Descend to the shore to visit the bird-/seal-watching hide. Just before the hide, the route continues to the right, on Forestry-made wooden walkways.

G     The going is rough along the edge of the high-water mark.

H     Where the path turns inland you will arrive at a substantial conical-shaped cairn on your left made from sea pebbles. To visit Ardmore Point, leave the main route here and follow the coastline. There is no defined path, only evidence of previous walkers in places. The going is very rough and unsuitable for inexperienced walkers. Some difficulties may be encountered at high tides.

I     From Ardmore Point light you can see Kilchoan in Ardnamurchan and SE along the Sound of Mull. Return to H to continue on the defined path SSE.

J     Ascend on the very boggy pathway, passing the remains of Ardmore on your right.

K     Ford the burn and pass more ruins (Ardmore school) on your right.

L     To view the Sound from above Bloody Bay, turn left for 300m or so, then right to ascend a steep track to the ridge. The few metres beyond the ridge to the cliff edge are very difficult, but the view down the Sound is well worth the effort. Return to L and continue on the forest road.

M     At the junction, keep left.

N     Continue on the forest road to the Tobermory road.