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This guidebook describes 50 day walks (7km to 31km) exploring the north east of Sardinia, across Gennargentu, Ogliastra and Barbaglia, from the mountains in the middle of the island to the dramatic eastern cliff coastline. Much of the walking is tough with some scrambling, through the wildest and most dramatic parts of Sardinia.
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|Buy your choice of routes or chapters to read online, on your mobile device or to download as a PDF to print or read.||Browse Routes|
This guide explores 50 walks in the highest and wildest regions of Sardinia. The island lies in the Mediterranean, off the west coast of Italy and south of Corsica. It has long attracted visitors to its beaches, but what of the walking? This guide unlocks the remote and secret potential of the island's mountains and coastline away from the bustle of the resorts.
The walks described in this guide uncover the cliff coastline of Ogliastra, and the mountainous inland areas of Supramonte and Gennargentu. It is only in recent years that these areas have become walkable with the paths being cleared and waymarked. Now the rugged beauty of the coast and the macchia-covered hillsides and rocky mountain summits are waiting and ready to be explored.
This guidebook is an ideal companion to exploring the wild, mountain potential in Sardinia. The routes range from shorter, easier rambles to more challenging walks, ensuring that there are routes for all abilities. As well as detailed route descriptions, the guide includes practical information on travel to and around Sardinia, language and currency, accommodation, mountain safety and details on the many sights along the way.
Appendix C - The Lemon House - Peter Herold and Anne McGlone have retired from running The Lemon House. The new proprietors, Riky Felderer and Elena Congia, are both enthusiastic outdoors people who are continuing to operate the business on the same lines as before. Contact details are unchanged.
Walk 6 - There is no longer parking available at Su Liddone. However, drive further along the road as the 'broken bridge' has now been replaced by a concrete bridge called Ponte Sa Barva. Cross it and turn right, then park beside the track. Walk along the track, passing a turning on the left, to reach another left turn where there is parking available and a wooden sign details entry charges to Tiscali. The path to follow is clearly marked with red/white paint marks on rocks. The route is now approximately 2km (1¼ miles) shorter than described in the book.
Walk 10 - The streambed below Coile Sa Tuvera is around 600m, rather than 550m. After leaving Coile Su Monte Istagiau, the path climbs, then before it descends as described in the book, there is now a well-worn path heading to the right. If this is followed, it is possible to reach the nuraghic village of Os Murales from the opposite site to that described in the book. Using this path would avoid having to retrace steps a short distance after visiting Coile Su Monte Istagiau.
Walk 21 - The sign for Su Runcu Nieddu has gone, but there are a couple of signs pointing the way back to Santa Maria.
Walk 24 - There is now an entry charge of €6 per person to access the popular walk to Cala Goloritzè.
Walk 29 - Some signposting has been done along a number of paths close to Perda Pera.
(Thanks to Jane Hart for the Walk updates)
|Trees and flowers|
|The national park|
|Getting to Sardinia|
|Getting around Sardinia|
|Health and safety|
|Food and drink|
|Walking in Sardinia|
|Where to stay|
|What to take|
|When to go|
|Waymarking and access|
|Maps of Sardinia|
|Using this guide|
|1 Monte Ortobene from Nuoro|
|2 Monte Corrasi from Oliena|
|3 Punta Ortu Camminu and Sos Nidos|
|4 Punta Cusidore from Nostra Signora di Monserrata|
|5 Tiscali from Valle di Lanaittu|
|6 Tiscali via Scala de Surtana|
|7 Gola de Su Gorropu|
|8 Dorgali, Monte Bardia and Cala Gonone|
|9 Dorgali and Cala Gonone|
|10 Genna ‘e Petta and Sa Portiscra|
|11 Codula Luna and Cala Gonone|
|12 Cala Sisine, Cala Luna and Cala Gonone|
|13 Giustizieri and Sa Coronas|
|14 Genna Silana to Genna Croce|
|15 Coile Orbisi and Sa Pischina|
|16 Fennau, Televai and Urzulei|
|17 Talana and Nuraghe Bau e Tanca|
|18 Monte Olinie to Coe Serra|
|19 Talana and Coe Serra|
|20 Sa Mola and Paule Munduge|
|21 Santa Maria Navarrese and Monte Oro|
|22 Baunei and Punta Giradili|
|23 Irbidossili and Cala Goloritzè|
|24 Golgo and Cala Goloritzè|
|25 Serra Ovara and Cala Sisine|
|26 Genna Sesole to Golgo|
|27 Genna Ramene to Golgo|
|28 Triei and Osono|
|29 Perda Pera and Monte Arista|
|30 Ulassai, Canyon and Punta Matzeu|
|31 Ulassai and Baulassa|
|32 Osini and Nuraghe Serbissi|
|33 Taquisara and Is Tostoinus|
|34 Perda Liana from Genna Filigi|
|35 Laconi and Santa Sofia|
|36 Funtanamela and Gurduxiones|
|37 Punta la Marmora from S'Arena|
|38 Punta la Marmora from Bruncu Spina|
|39 Punta la Marmora from Cuile Meriagus|
|40 Arcu Guddetorgiu and Girgini|
|41 Monte Spada from Genna Luddurreo|
|42 Tonara and Punta Muggianeddu|
|43 Bauerì, Passo Perdu Abes and Tonara|
|44 Meana Sardo to Aritzo|
|45 Aritzo and Geratzia|
|46 Teti and S'Urbale|
|47 Teti and Craru Eridunele|
|48 Sorradile and Monte Cresia|
|49 Sedilo to Ponte Fiume Taloro|
|50 Sedilo and Nuraghe Iloi|
|Appendix A Route summary table|
|Appendix B Glossary|
|Appendix C Useful contacts|
|Start/Finish||Chiesa la Solitudine, Nuoro|
|Distance||16km (10 miles)|
|Total Ascent/Descent||650m (2130ft)|
|Terrain||Roads and tracks, from farmland to wooded slopes, and a steep wooded path for the descent|
|Maps||IGMI ‘Serie 50’ 500, ‘Serie 25’ 500 IV|
|Refreshment||Plenty of choice in Nuoro; bars on top of Monte Ortobene|
|Transport/Access||ATP city buses run between Nuoro and Monte Ortobene|
|Note||Descent uses waymarked trail 101|
Monte Ortobene is a very popular destination for motorists, although plenty of walkers also climb it. Farm and woodland tracks can be linked to approach the busy summit for exceptional views. A winding, waymarked path can be used on a well-wooded descent to return to Nuoro.
Start at a chapel, Chiesa la Solitudine, on the outskirts of Nuoro. A small bar and gelateria are available, and the walk goes up the road Via Monte Ortobene. When it bends sharp right, go through a gateway and down a concrete track into holm oak woods. Climb gently and turn right down to a picnic site in mixed woodland. Turn left down a track, and left again at a junction down to the road. Turn right and quickly right again, following a track running parallel to the road for a while. Cross a bridge and pass a turning signposted ‘Chiesa di N S di Valverde'. If visiting the chapel, return here afterwards.
The road reaches a ‘Km2’ sign at Janna Ventosa. Turn right and go through the middle of three gateways. A track descends steeply, then more gently past pines and eucalyptus, while the slopes of Monte Ortobene are dotted with granite tors. Climb a bit then continue down the track, across bouldery slopes of scrub woodland. Cross a stream-bed and climb gently, through a gateway and over a rise. The tallest trees are cork oaks, then the track climbs past olives, steepening and passing a ruin. The climb continues relentlessly on Cuccuru Sinnurtui, with dense macchia, cork oaks and pines alongside.
Turn left at a junction, undulating among mixed woodlands. Stay on the main track, avoiding all others to left and right, and later climb a concrete track with a power line alongside. A derelict sports centre stands to the right, around 700m (2300ft). Turn left along a road to reach a turning space beside a weed-grown sports pitch. Continue along and down a track into woods, then climb and watch for a vague path on the right. If you climb too far a grotesque outcrop is seen, with a gateway alongside. Go back down and look more carefully for the path.
The path is narrow and brambly, then clearer as it climbs through dense woods, a clearing, and more woods. Turn right up a broken concrete track and pass a few properties, reaching a road over 900m (2950ft). Turn left up the road, which curves round Cuccuru Nigheddu, offering splendid views, with Monte Bardia to the east, Monte Corrasi south-east, and Gennargentu sprawling south. Reach a couple of restaurants and turn right up a road, then go sharp left up a path to a chapel on a wooded hilltop. Follow a narrow path past a building further along the crest and head down to a car park. (This point is served by ATP buses from Nuoro.)
Follow a broad, stone-paved path, rising and falling through the woods. Climb stone steps to the huge bronze statue of Il Redentore (‘The Redeemer'), at 925m (3035ft) on Monte Ortobene. Enjoy extensive views, marred only by communication masts nearby at 955m (3133ft). Double back to the road and walk round the back of a nearby café/bar called Il Parco. A short concrete track leads onto a winding woodland track. Keep left of a house, passing a corner of a fence, to pick up a path flashed red/white, numbered 101. Walk down through the woods and cross an access track serving a youth centre. Continue down to a derelict building and turn left, almost to a road at Solotti, at 820m (2690ft).
Just before reaching the road, turn left through a brambly gap to follow a path. A fence and wall push the path away from the road, while red/white flashes show the way ahead, through a network of paths. An old track leads down to a road, but merely clip a bend and step behind ‘arrow’ signs to continue down the path. Either cross the road or walk under it at Funtana Milianu. Go down granite steps to follow a walled or fenced path that turns right down a steep track then quickly levels out among tall broom. Join a broader track and turn right, in effect straight ahead, to a cross-track where tall pines stand among holm oaks at Sos Frores, at 707m (2320ft).
Keep straight ahead, signposted ‘La Solitudine', following the path downhill until it rears uphill, worn and grooved. The trail is marked left – it is initially vague (flashed red/white), but becomes clearer as it climbs a groove past outcrops and boulders. Reach a clear track, but don't follow it. Turn quickly right and left to follow a narrow parallel path. Keep straight ahead along a clear path, going over a slight rise then down a groove. Pass between a covered reservoir and a house, walk down a concrete track to a transformer tower, then go straight ahead down a gritty path. Turn left up a road (or squeeze through a narrow bridge beneath), then turn sharp right and walk steeply down a narrow path. Fork left to finish in front of the chapel at La Solitudine.