Walking in Sardinia
50 walks on the Ogliastra coast, Supramonte and Gennergentu mountains
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This guidebook describes 50 day walks (7km to 31km) exploring the north east of Sardinia, across Gennargentu, Ogliastra and Barbaglia, from the mountains in the middle of the island to the dramatic eastern cliff coastline. Much of the walking is tough with some scrambling, through the wildest and most dramatic parts of Sardinia.
- spring is the best season for temperate weather and flowers; autumn is also good; summer tends to be too hot; there may be rain and low cloud in winter, with snow on the higher mountains
- Nuoro, Oliena, Dorgali, Baunei, Lotzoraí, Ulassai, Laconi, Aritzo, Tonara, Fonni, Teti, Sedilo; most of the walks are accessible by bus
- some short routes, while others are long and difficult, sometimes traversing remote and rugged mountains; careful navigation is needed when walking away from trodden routes. Several paths and tracks have been cleared, signposted and waymarked in recent years
- Must See
- rugged limestone coast of Ogliastra, Golgo plateau, the wild 'Supramonte', granite mountains of Gennargentu, Punta La Marmora, newly-waymarked forest trails, traditional shepherds' paths and mule trails through dense macchia, quaint historic mountain villages
This guide explores 50 walks in the highest and wildest regions of Sardinia. The island lies in the Mediterranean, off the west coast of Italy and south of Corsica. It has long attracted visitors to its beaches, but what of the walking? This guide unlocks the remote and secret potential of the island's mountains and coastline away from the bustle of the resorts.
The walks described in this guide uncover the cliff coastline of Ogliastra, and the mountainous inland areas of Supramonte and Gennargentu. It is only in recent years that these areas have become walkable with the paths being cleared and waymarked. Now the rugged beauty of the coast and the macchia-covered hillsides and rocky mountain summits are waiting and ready to be explored.
This guidebook is an ideal companion to exploring the wild, mountain potential in Sardinia. The routes range from shorter, easier rambles to more challenging walks, ensuring that there are routes for all abilities. As well as detailed route descriptions, the guide includes practical information on travel to and around Sardinia, language and currency, accommodation, mountain safety and details on the many sights along the way.
- All routes are illustrated with sketch maps and spectacular photography.
- Information on the historic and cultural sights of Sardinia you can expect to see, from the megalithic, to Roman to the present day.
- Many of the routes can be adapted and joined together, providing the walker with all the tools to create their own itineraries.
Trees and flowers
The national park
Getting to Sardinia
Getting around Sardinia
Health and safety
Food and drink
Walking in Sardinia
Where to stay
What to take
When to go
Waymarking and access
Maps of Sardinia
Using this guide
1 Monte Ortobene from Nuoro
2 Monte Corrasi from Oliena
3 Punta Ortu Camminu and Sos Nidos
4 Punta Cusidore from Nostra Signora di Monserrata
5 Tiscali from Valle di Lanaittu
6 Tiscali via Scala de Surtana
7 Gola de Su Gorropu
8 Dorgali, Monte Bardia and Cala Gonone
9 Dorgali and Cala Gonone
10 Genna ‘e Petta and Sa Portiscra
11 Codula Luna and Cala Gonone
12 Cala Sisine, Cala Luna and Cala Gonone
13 Giustizieri and Sa Coronas
14 Genna Silana to Genna Croce
15 Coile Orbisi and Sa Pischina
16 Fennau, Televai and Urzulei
17 Talana and Nuraghe Bau e Tanca
18 Monte Olinie to Coe Serra
19 Talana and Coe Serra
20 Sa Mola and Paule Munduge
21 Santa Maria Navarrese and Monte Oro
22 Baunei and Punta Giradili
23 Irbidossili and Cala Goloritzè
24 Golgo and Cala Goloritzè
25 Serra Ovara and Cala Sisine
26 Genna Sesole to Golgo
27 Genna Ramene to Golgo
28 Triei and Osono
29 Perda Pera and Monte Arista
30 Ulassai, Canyon and Punta Matzeu
31 Ulassai and Baulassa
32 Osini and Nuraghe Serbissi
33 Taquisara and Is Tostoinus
34 Perda Liana from Genna Filigi
35 Laconi and Santa Sofia
36 Funtanamela and Gurduxiones
37 Punta la Marmora from S'Arena
38 Punta la Marmora from Bruncu Spina
39 Punta la Marmora from Cuile Meriagus
40 Arcu Guddetorgiu and Girgini
41 Monte Spada from Genna Luddurreo
42 Tonara and Punta Muggianeddu
43 Bauerì, Passo Perdu Abes and Tonara
44 Meana Sardo to Aritzo
45 Aritzo and Geratzia
46 Teti and S'Urbale
47 Teti and Craru Eridunele
48 Sorradile and Monte Cresia
49 Sedilo to Ponte Fiume Taloro
50 Sedilo and Nuraghe Iloi
Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Glossary
Appendix C Useful contacts
MAPS OF SARDINIA
Government maps covering Sardinia are part of the Carta Topografica d'Italia series, published by the Instituto Geografico Militare d'Italia (IGMI). There are two scales – the 1:50,000 ‘Serie 50’ has orange covers, while the 1:25,000 ‘Serie 25’ has blue covers. Every ‘Serie 50’ map is divided into quarters to create ‘Serie 25’ coverage. Bear in mind that some coastal sheets cover very little land area. Sheet-by-sheet coverage can be checked online at www.igmi.org/ware, but the site is available only in Italian – and while it is very useful, it isn't obvious how to get the most out of it. These maps don't show all the available paths and tracks, but other useful maps highlighting at least some useful walking routes are available (see below).
IGMI maps can be ordered in advance from The Map Shop, 15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn, WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146, www.themapshop.co.uk.
Vast areas are managed by Ente Foreste delle Sardegna, the Sardinian forestry agency (www.sardegnaambiente.it/foreste). They have identified, cleared, marked and signposted a series of short and long trails. They publish a series of excellent 1:25,000 scale maps, completely free of charge, covering dozens of waymarked trails. These can be studied online and printed by clicking first on the ‘Sentieri’ link, then (in spite of everything being only in Italian) clicking on each area, then clicking the ‘Scarica la carta’ links to find the maps. You won't find better trail maps anywhere on Sardinia.
There is a good 1:50,000 scale map with walking trails highlighted – Ogliastra – published by Balzano Edizioni. A similar, but simpler version is published by Edizioni Serinet. Balzano Edizioni also publishes a good 1:50,000 scale Comunità Montana map, and sheet 9 covers the mountains around Nuoro. There may be other maps that show walking routes with varying degrees of usefulness and accuracy, but the ones mentioned here are the best.
Travelling around this part of Sardinia requires the use of a suitable road map. Michelin and DeAgostini both publish maps with a good level of detail at a scale of 1:200,000.
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Appendix C - The Lemon House - Peter Herold and Anne McGlone have retired from running The Lemon House. The new proprietors, Riky Felderer and Elena Congia, are both enthusiastic outdoors people who are continuing to operate the business on the same lines as before. Contact details are unchanged.
Walk 6 - There is no longer parking available at Su Liddone. However, drive further along the road as the 'broken bridge' has now been replaced by a concrete bridge called Ponte Sa Barva. Cross it and turn right, then park beside the track. Walk along the track, passing a turning on the left, to reach another left turn where there is parking available and a wooden sign details entry charges to Tiscali. The path to follow is clearly marked with red/white paint marks on rocks. The route is now approximately 2km (1¼ miles) shorter than described in the book.
Walk 10 - The streambed below Coile Sa Tuvera is around 600m, rather than 550m. After leaving Coile Su Monte Istagiau, the path climbs, then before it descends as described in the book, there is now a well-worn path heading to the right. If this is followed, it is possible to reach the nuraghic village of Os Murales from the opposite site to that described in the book. Using this path would avoid having to retrace steps a short distance after visiting Coile Su Monte Istagiau.
Walk 21 - The sign for Su Runcu Nieddu has gone, but there are a couple of signs pointing the way back to Santa Maria.
Walk 24 - There is now an entry charge of €6 per person to access the popular walk to Cala Goloritzè.
Walk 29 - Some signposting has been done along a number of paths close to Perda Pera.
(Thanks to Jane Hart for the Walk updates)
Sardinia’s intricate network of paths has long been unknown to the millions of visitors who flock to the island’s beaches. But for those who venture off the beaten track they offer a wide range of challenges and a long sunny walking season.
This guidebook covers the highest and wildest parts of the island including the rugged Ogliastra coast, the barren Supramonte and the Genergentu mountains further inland. Much of the mountain walking is tough with some scrambling.
The photographs are mostly by the author and show his love of the island and the amazing landscape that this island has to offer. Another island to add to the list of must do’s.
Strider (LDWA), April 2012
Paddy Dillon is a prolific outdoor writer with over 90 guidebooks to his name, and contributions to 40 other publications. He has written for a variety of outdoor magazines, as well as many booklets and brochures for tourism organisations. Paddy lives near the Lake District and has walked in every county in England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales; writing about walks in every one of them. He enjoys simple day walks, challenging long-distance walks, and is a dedicated island-hopper. He has led guided walks and walked extensively in Europe, as well as in Nepal, Tibet, Korea, Africa and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the United States.View Articles and Books by Paddy Dillon
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