Walking the Northern Trek: a conversation with Ken Heptonstall

Can you tell us a bit about your background and how you got into long-distance hiking?

I first started hiking in my late teens, and the walks just kept getting longer from there. A couple of friends shared the same passion, and we began walking regularly in the Lake District. In our twenties, we spent long summer breaks backpacking in Norway, the Dolomites and the Alps, and the bug never really left me. I love being outdoors and surrounded by wild spaces.

My professional background is in design. I worked as a publicist for ITV for ten years, promoting British TV to a worldwide audience, before going freelance and founding my own company, Headland Multimedia, in Leeds. I was Managing Director there for 32 years before retiring three years ago. However, all throughout my career, long-distance walking has always been my passion.

When did you first use a Cicerone guidebook, and do any early trips stand out?

My first Cicerone guidebook was for the Tour du Mont Blanc in 1977. I remember it well – we arrived in Chamonix at night with nothing but a map of central Europe and our Cicerone book, which I remember being much bigger and heavier than today’s editions! It became our bible for two weeks, and we’d read it by torchlight each evening high up in the mountains.

Tell us about the Northern Trek. What inspired you to create it?

I hadn’t thought about designing my own route until a few years ago. After walking both the Pennine Way and the West Highland Way, I had a simple urge to join them together – and that’s how it began. The Northern Trek is a 560-mile walking challenge that starts at Chatsworth House in the Peak District and ends at the summit of Ben Nevis in Scotland. The route traverses four national parks, goes through the England-Scotland border, and crosses the city of Edinburgh. The walk can be completed in a single, continuous hike or broken down into smaller, sections over time.

There’s a growing appetite for big, challenging adventures. I wanted to create a 500-mile+ (900km) trail in the UK that would appeal to that spirit. Nothing quite existed in that distance range between 300 and 600 miles. I also wanted to make it flexible – so it can be walked as six one-week stages, or as 32 one-day hikes, suiting everyone from weekend walkers to thru-hikers.

Could you walk us through the process of planning and creating the Northern Trek?

It started with two identical RAC road maps. I cut them up, pasted them together, spread them out on the kitchen floor and began sketching the route with a highlighter. Then I bought 23 OS maps and started to fill in the gaps. Of course, I then had to walk the entire route myself and photograph it from end to end, which took about two years. I made several changes along the way, especially around the Pentland Hills and Edinburgh.

The entire route follows public rights of way shown on OS maps. It connects the Pennine Way with the West Highland Way, and includes part of the John Muir Way to cross the Union and Forth and Clyde canals. It all sounds simple – but it definitely wasn’t!

What makes the Northern Trek unique compared to other UK routes?

Several things. It passes through four National Parks and four UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and it’s one of the few long-distance routes to pass right through the heart of a capital city – Edinburgh. The trek begins at Chatsworth House and crosses six magnificent Derbyshire ridges – Baslow, Curbar, Froggatt, Burbage, Stanage and Derwent Edges – before finishing on the summit of Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest mountain at 1344m. But for me, the most special thing is how it connects the mountains and rivers of Scotland with the hills and dales of England. No other path really does that. It’s 290 miles (467km) in England and 270 miles (434km) in Scotland.

Do you have any favourite sections or standout memories from walking the route?

So many. Climbing Ben Nevis with my wife in 2025 was a highlight. Another unforgettable moment was near Milngavie, singing “I Would Walk 500 Miles” with a friend when a flock of around 2000 geese and whooper swans suddenly took off around us – pure magic. Other memories include hugging a tree by Loch Lomond, sheltering from snow at the Tan Hill Inn, listening to the eerie sounds of the Falkirk Wheel, and walking with the American hiker and blogger “Sheep” in June 2025.

Favourite sections? The Pentland Hills, the Forth estuary and its three bridges, the Derbyshire Edges, Rannoch Moor and Glencoe, the Cheviots and, of course, Edinburgh. My nephew is a geologist in Canada and says Malham Cove is his favourite place on Earth. It’s hard to disagree when you consider Gordale Scar is right beside it.

How important is the right gear for tackling long-distance routes like the Northern Trek?

Crucial. As Wainwright said, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” I always carry waterproofs, even in summer – sometimes it’s just about keeping out the wind chill.

It’s taken years to get my kit right. I have three complete setups: lightweight gear for summer, a mid-range set for seasonal changes, and full winter gear with heavier boots, a puffa jacket, thermals and a larger pack.

How do you choose good walking boots for the trek?

Durability and comfort come first. The boot needs great grip on all kinds of surfaces, and waterproofing is essential. I wear leather boots with heavier soles in winter, and lighter Gore-Tex ones for long summer hikes. Weight matters, too, when covering long distances. I always wear two pairs of socks – a thicker pair on the inside – and Meindl boots, size 10. They just fit perfectly.

You’ve tested Meindl boots in various places – any experiences that stand out?

On my latest trip to Cornwall, I walked part of the South West Coast Path, testing Meindl’s new Tolmin Mid GTX. They were superb from the start – comfortable, light and with excellent grip on wet rock. I suspect they’ll become my new all-season boot.

In the Lake District and on Scottish mountains, I wear the heavier Peru GTX, while the lighter Respond Mid II GTX is my everyday choice – ideal for shorter hikes or birdwatching days.

If you were to recommend one Cicerone guidebook to someone walking the Northern Trek, which would it be?

It would have to be Walking the West Highland Way by Terry Marsh. It’s packed with helpful and interesting information, and the maps are excellent. We walked it in seven sections, as the author suggests, and it’s a perfect size to keep handy in your pack.

What advice would you give to anyone planning to walk the Northern Trek?

Study the route carefully before you set off. Carry enough food and water for a full day, as not all cafes or pubs will be open. Keep your phone charged, take a power bank and download maps in advance – you can’t rely on signal everywhere.

Pack essentials: waterproofs, a whistle, plasters, painkillers, and even small scissors – they often come in handy. Check the forecast regularly as the weather can change quickly, and make sure you’ve done some practice hikes of 15-20 miles to prepare for consecutive long days.

What keeps you motivated to explore new routes and keep walking?

I just love being outdoors. Wild places and nature bring me such joy. We’re incredibly lucky in the UK to have such varied landscapes – mountains, rivers, moorland, coastline and so many beautiful National Parks and long-distance trails. It’s a dream for walkers.

What’s next for you? Are there any future projects or walks you're excited about?

Yes, several. I’m currently walking the Nidderdale Way, a four-day, 55-mile trail in Yorkshire; the Trent Valley Way, which follows the River Trent for over 100 miles to the Humber estuary (and eventually Spurn Point); and I’m tackling the South West Coast Path in stages over the next five years.

My next overseas hike will be either in Madeira or Norway’s Lofoten Islands. I’d also love to redesign the Bob Graham Round as a seven-day hiking route. That’s a project I’d really enjoy bringing to life.

And finally, where can people go to find out more about the Northern Trek?

The Northern Trek website is packed full of photos, route descriptions, videos and information about the trek. You can also follow along on Instagram.