The Bernese Alps – Switzerland

Over 100 routes are described in this guidebook to walking the Bernese Alps in Switzerland, home to the famous Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. Routes for all abilities lead to lesser-known mountains, romantic valleys, lakes, flower-filled meadows and mountain huts. Describes the area from the Haslital in the east to the Col du Pillon in the west.

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Route 9: Schynige Platte (1978m) - Faulhorn (2681m) - First (2167m)

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Grade: 3
Distance: 15km
Height gain: 694m
Height loss: 514m
Time: 5-6hrs
Location: Southeast of Wilderswil

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No book of walks in the Bernese Alps would be complete without this one. It is, quite simply, one of the classic walks of the Alps, and it doesn’t matter how often you walk it, nor how many others have done so before you, it is always worth tackling. Its main feature is the constantly changing panorama, for it begins with one of the Alps’ finest views, with Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau and Lauterbrunnen Breithorn, then changes to a steep overview of the Brienzer See and the northern hills; changes again to one of an intimate little glen, and then grows in glory with the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn and Fiescherhorn shimmering in the clear waters of the Bachsee.

But if the views keep changing, so too does the very nature of this high route. Variety is of the essence. But do choose a day with the weather full of promise, for there are long sections away from shelter. In any case, you will want good visibility and sunshine to bring out the full glory of the landscape. (Note: In July and August guided moonlight tours are arranged along this path, aiming to capture sunrise from the Faulhorn and having breakfast at the First restaurant. Enquire at the tourist office in Wilderswil for details.)

Take the funicular from Wilderswil to Schynige Platte. It’s a slow but entertaining ride.

The funicular was built in 1893 to enable visitors to admire the breathtaking views. Above the Schynige Platte station there’s a well-known alpine garden with somewhere in the region of 500 different plant species – worth a visit (fee payable). There’s also a hotel; see details above under Other Bases.

To begin the walk, descend from the station platform where a sign directs you onto the path to the Faulhorn. Shortly after, it forks. Both options will do, but the preferred route bears left for the Panoramaweg, passes below the alpine garden, and forks once more. Take the right branch across a bowl of pasture towards the Oberberghorn, skirt below it and join the alternative lower path from Schynige Platte. Keep ahead and you will shortly come onto a grass-covered crest that plunges steeply on its northern side. The path is quite safe, but the views down to the Brienzer See are dramatic, while gazing westwards Interlaken is seen far below with the Thunersee shimmering beyond it.

The Schynige Platte Panoramaweg
The Panoramaweg makes a worthwhile outing of about 2½hrs for those who balk at the long walk to First. Start by walking up the track from the station to the Schynige Platte Kulm hotel. The Panoramaweg path continues from here to zig-zag up to the vantage point of Tuba (2076m). The way then goes along the crest towards the Oberberghorn and is joined by the main walk almost as far as the Laucherhorn, before returning to Schynige Platte through the Oberberg pastures.

Follow the crest northeastward, descend a steel ladder, and at a path junction go up a slope to the base of the Laucherhorn. The way angles below this mountain to cross a ridge spur, then makes a traverse of a steep slope to gain a narrow pass at 2025m. Now cross a desolate hidden region of rocks, limestone ribs and cliffs to another minor col between the Laucherhorn and Ussri Sägissa. This takes you into the moorland-like Sägistal with a small tarn at the far end of the valley.

Grazed by sheep, this little glen is almost entirely circled by ridges, and the path keeps along the slopes of the right-hand wall. Much of the way goes along a series of limestone terraces, then veers right, rising gently across more bare ribs before coming to the narrow cleft of the Männdlenen saddle in which is found the tiny Weber Hut (2344m accommodation, refreshments) at a junction of paths. This is gained about 2½–3hrs from Schynige Platte. (The right-hand path here makes a long descent to Burglauenen in the valley.)

The continuing route climbs steeply beyond the hut, then eases along a natural terrace below the Winteregg ridge with the Faulhorn rising ahead. Coming onto the ridge, new views open again to the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau; yet another splendid vantage point from which to study these lovely mountains. Soon the path offers a choice. Either continue directly up to the Faulhorn summit, or break away on the right-hand path which makes a traverse across the face of the mountain.

Views from the top of the 2681m Faulhorn are certainly worth the extra effort involved in reaching it. There is also the prospect of refreshment at Berghotel Faulhorn (accommodation, refreshments) just a few metres below the summit.

From the summit, or the lower option, you then descend to an obvious saddle (Gassenboden; 2553m) and bear left, winding down among rocks and over more rough grass slopes to reach the Bachsee with its stunning panorama of big mountains and glaciers. The path skirts the left shoreline of this delightful lake with views drawing you on, and then continues down to the gondola lift station of First (accommodation, refreshments). Take the gondola down to Grindelwald.