Tour of the Oisans: The GR54

A guidebook to the GR54 trek around the Écrins national park, the Tour of the Oisans. The 176km route is described clockwise from Bourg d'Oisans and is one of Europe's toughest treks. The Tour is split into 10 day stages with suggestions for a 13-day itinerary and alternative stages. For experienced Alpine trekkers, some exposure.

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Overview

The Tour of the Oisans on the GR54 is a challenging two-week trek around the Ecrins National Park (southeast of Grenoble) in France, one of the most visually spectacular regions in all the Alps. Beginning in Bourg d'Oisans, the route folows a clockwise direction, and in the course of 10-13 days it covers 176km and climbs more than 12,800m to cross a series of challenging cols that separate deep and enchanting valleys. The scenery is spectacular and ever varied, and with charming villages and hamlets to visit on the way, the trekker's experience is both rich and rewarding. Accommodation is in valley hotels or gîtes, or in mountain refuges set in idyllic locations. The route is divided into 10 stages, but with suggestions for a 13-day itinerary and alternative stages are also described. Full accommodation details are given along with background information on how to get there, what to take, mountain safety, and notes on the flora and fauna of the region. All illustrated with colour sketch maps and photographs.

Table of Contents

Contents
Introduction
The Route
Suggested Itineraries
Accommodation
How to Get There
When to Go
Notes for Walkers
Equipment
Recommended Map
Safety in the Mountains
The Parc National des Écrins
Alpine Flowers and Wildlife
Using the Guide
Information at a Glance
Part 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Vallouise
Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans – Besse-en-Oisans
Stage 2 Besse-en-Oisans – La Grave
Stage 3 La Grave – Monêtier-les-Bains
Stage 4 Monêtier-les-Bains – Vallouise
Part 2 Vallouise to Bourg d'Oisans
Stage 5 Vallouise – Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette
Stage 6 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette – La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar
Alt Stage 6 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette – La Chapelle via Vallon d'Isola
Stage 7 La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar – Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey
Stage 8 Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey – Valsenestre
Stage 9 Valsenestre –Refuge de la Muzelle
Alt Stage 9 Valsenestre – Bourg d'Arud
Stage 10 Refuge de la Muzelle – Bourg d'Oisans
Alt Stage 10 Bourg d'Arud – Bourg d'Oisans

Appendix A Accommodation
Appendix B Useful Addresses
Appendix C Bibliography
Appendix D French–English Glossary

Maps

The Carte de Randonnées hiking map, A6 Écrins, published by Rando Éditions at 1:50,000 should be more than adequate for trekkers walking the Tour of the Oisans. The standard of cartography and artistic representation are excellent, although the rate of glacial recession is a challenge for every new edition. Based on the official survey by the IGN (Institut Géographique National), the route of GR54 and its variantes are outlined in red. Refuges and most gîtes d’étape are also clearly marked, while the boundaries of the Parc National des Écrins are delineated with a bold green outline.

The map has a 2km square grid and is GPS compatible, and below the Key a number of useful telephone numbers are given – but make sure you have the latest edition, or some of these might be out of date.

Updates

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October 2019

Route updates and corrections

Please note that the hotel Le Rif Blanc in Monêtier-les-Bains (pp67 & 135) no longer exists. Other hotels and gîtes in the town will hopefully make up for its loss.

September 2013

Walkers tackling the GR54 will be interested to know that the small village of Valsenestre, visited at the end of Stage 8 (p112 of the guidebook), now has additional accommodation at the gite, Les Marmottes, which is advertised as being of particular use for families and groups of 4-19 people. Moderately priced, the address is: Les Marmottes, Hameau de Valsenestre, F-38740 Valjouffrey, France. Tel: +33 (0) 4 76 30 24 65 – see www.montagnepourtous.org.

August 2012

Please note the following information received from reader Robin Gill – to whom we owe thanks.

Stage 5: page 79 A navette (minibus) service now operates in summer from Vallouise to the roadhead at Entre les Aygues. It departs at 07.00am opposite Jacky Sports in Vallouise – to reserve a seat call 04 92 50 25 05; or enquire at the tourist office.

Stage 9: pages 114/116 A well-made zigzag path has now been cut in the slates leading to Col de la Muzelle from the south, thus eliminating the need for scrambling.

Kev Reynolds

June 2012

Page 106 & 136
Please note that a new gîte has been opened in the small village of LE DÉSERT-EN-VALJOUFFREY (Stage 7) which could be useful for trekkers walking the Tour of the Oisans.

Le Gîte des Arias is open all year; it has 20 places (beds & dorms), meals provided & self-catering facilities. Tel: (0033) [0]607443420 Email: contact@lesarias.fr Website: http://www.lesarias.fr

August 2008

page 81: At PONT DES FONTAINES do not cross the bridge (the route has been diverted), but remain on the right-hand side of the river until you come to the road through the Vallee d'Entraigues, and rejoin the described route at PONT DES PLACES.

page 92: In the final paragraph on this page please note that a new bridge has been built by the old house. This is where you now cross the stream.

page 95: LA CHAPELLE-EN-VALGAUDEMAR Please note that this is the last real opportunity to buy supplies until you reach Bourg d'Oisans at the end of the trek.

page 106: LE DESERT-EN-VALJOUFFREY Supplies are no longer available at the Bar des Ecrins, although meals are. A few basic foodstuffs may be purchased from the Auberge l'Eterlou

Reviews

‘I LOVE this guidebook to the GR54. The glossy dark blue cover looks tough enough to withstand being drenched and sat on and the inside is immediately appealing. Kev Reynolds has done another brilliant job to entice his readers to the dramatic area.

The first part includes the usual but very useful information about trekking in the Alps. The main part of the book describes each stage clearly in his unique style, and the route descriptions and little maps of each stage are very clear with just the right amount of detail.

If I were lifted to a desert island, Kev Reynold’s guides would sit well alongside The Bible and Shakespeare and survive being washed ashore as well!’

(Strider - LDWA / December 08)

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