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This guidebook to walking and backpacking on Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna, Coll and Tiree includes a tough 55km backpack around the coast of Rum, a circuit of the Rum Cuillin and an ascent of An Sgurr (Eigg). The 16 routes across all these Western Isles of Scotland are suitable for a range of abilities exploring coasts, mountains and wilderness.
Seasons
spring, early summer and early autumn are the best times as the weather is mildest and the midges are in abeyance; high summer is the busiest season and midges can be a nightmare on Rum; winter days are short and storms are frequent, but the solitary grandeur of the islands in winter weather is ample reward for the well-prepared walker.
routes range from the challenging to the relatively undemanding; weather can change suddenly in the Hebrides - be prepared for wet, wild and windy conditions.
Must See
the Rum Cuillin, Kinloch Castle, Kilmory bay; An Sgurr and Cleadale on Eigg; Canna's cliffs and rock stacks; verdant landscape and sparkling shores of Muck; white sand bays and flower-carpeted machair of Coll and Tiree; wildlife, geological features and ancient monuments; stunning coastal landscapes
This guidebook describes 16 routes across Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna, Coll and Tiree, suitable for a wide range of abilities, and exploring coast, mountains and wilderness. The 15 day walks include a challenging round of the Rum Cuillin, and the one 3-day 55km backpacking route heads around the Rum coastline, sometimes over pathless and tough terrain. Each route provides OS 1:50,000 mapping, information on distance, ascent, time and terrain, as well as details of any variants or shortcuts.
The Small Isles are often called the hidden gems of the Western Isles, providing a walking paradise for those seeking wilderness and solitude, alongside the better-known Rum. Highlights include, on Rum, the towering volcanic peaks of the Rum Cuillin, Kinloch Castle, Kilmory bay; An Sgurr and Cleadale on Eigg; Canna's towering cliffs and rock stacks; the verdant landscape and sparkling shores of Muck; and the white sand bays and flower-carpeted machair of Coll and Tiree. Each island is different and has its own introduction here, with detailed information on geology, history and wildlife, as well as local amenities.
Table of Contents
Contents Introduction When to go Getting there Ferries and flights Maps, route finding and access Safety and emergencies What to take Using this guide Rum Walk 1 A round of the Rum Cuillin Walk 2 The Dibidil Horseshoe Walk 3 Around the coast of Rum Walk 4 Kinloch to Guirdil Walk 5 The Guirdil Horseshoe Walk 6 Around Rum’s western hills Walk 7 Kinloch to Kilmory Bay or Harris Eigg Walk 8 An Sgùrr and Grulin Walk 9 Around the coast and cliffs of north Eigg Canna Walk 10 Around the coast of Canna Walk 11 Around Sanday Muck Walk 12 Around the coast of Muck Coll Walk 13 Coll’s western tip Walk 14 Ben Hogh and the Breachacha castles Tiree Walk 15 Tiree’s east coast Walk 16 Tiree’s west coast and three highest points
Appendix A Route summary table Appendix B Accommodation Appendix C Further reading
Maps
It is essential that you have the appropriate maps for the walks described in this guidebook. There are few waymarks, signposts or paths of any kind, making accurate route finding all the more important. A degree of navigational proficiency is indispensable.
This guide incorporates Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 mapping with highlighted routes. These should be used in conjunction with OS Explorer 1:25,000 maps because of their greater topographic detail. Do not rely solely on the maps in this guidebook as it is essential that you are able to ascertain your position in the wider context, should you need to abandon your walk and make for the nearest road or habitation. The walks described in this guidebook are covered by the following Ordnance Survey maps:
OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 397 Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and Sanday
OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 372 Coll and Tiree
OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 39 Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna
OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 46 Coll and Tiree
A compass is indispensable and a ‘wristwatch’ altimeter is also very useful for navigation, especially on the hills of Rum. It’s not quite so easy to get lost when walking along the island coastlines, but it is important that you know exactly where you are, especially in poor weather/visibility and if for any reason you need to head inland from the coast.
The footbridge across the Kilmory River was washed away in 2017 and as yet the Isle of Rum National Nature Reserve have not responded to enquiries as to if and when a replacement will be installed. Depending on the tide it is possible to cross the outflow of the river where it crosses the beach. Unless the river is running high it is also possible to cross using a sill in the bank though great care should be exercised.
p41 It has been reported that the route as described in the first paragraph of Walk 1 A Round of the Rum Cuillin has become difficult to follow. The following is a suggested alternative:
Walk a short distance north of Kinloch Castle to the junction by the bridge that leads to the community hall. Turn left here and continue for 150 metres before turning left at a metal gate. Follow the track past the old castle garden walls to the generator and continue along the Allt Slugan to the edge of the woodland before emerging onto rising open ground.
p43 'at around 650m, follow the path off the ridge as it skirts around Askival’s east flank' Reader, Michael Smith reports that 'the path we found was higher (as measured by GPS rather than contour on the map) at 694m. Before the substantial old cairn is reached indicating the right turn to go up to the ridge, there are several tempting but inferior ways up'.
November 2014
The Rum Bunkhouse, managed by the Isle of Rum Community Trust, is now open (autumn 2014) and has accommodation for up to 20 people in four mixed dorms and one twin room. There are two fully equipped kitchens and a lounge with a wood burning stove and sofas.
Kinloch Castle hostel will be closed definitively from the end of May 2013. Funding for the construction of a new bunkhouse has just been announced (April 2013) and in the interim temporary, self-catering hostel accommodation next to the castle will be available from 8 June 2013. For more details contact:
'Of particular interest is the introduction to each island, including geology, history, wildlife, plants and amenities. Accommodation is limited so the listing at the back can be comprehensive with varied options.'
Canoeist Magazine, November 2012
'Clearly the author has explored and enjoyed these islands very extensively, and this comprehensive guide should encourage many to follow in his footsteps.'
Strider, April 2013
Where to Buy
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Since moving to Scotland from the south of England in 2006, Peter has developed a passion for the Hebrides. He lives at Rhenigidale on the Isle of Harris with his wife, Fiona and their Labradors, Dougal and Mara.
