Walking in Berkshire

The 20 walks in this book vary in length from 6 to 13 miles, covering diverse scenery from parkland around Windsor, riverside walks, walks visiting villages and castles such as Stanford Dingley and Donnington Castle, and high open country walks on the Ridgeway near Lambourn.

With one end in the suburbs of London and the other in Wessex, Berkshire has a greater variety of scenery than its relatively small area would suggest (about 40 miles/65km from west to east and 12 miles/20km from north to south).

The walks in this guide cover the various scenic delights of Berkshire. The pinewoods and heathland in the south. The peaceful, rural River Thames between Cookham and Streatley – ideal for chilling out on a hot summer’s day. The majestic Downs – walking at its best with the sense of freedom gained from walking along wide tracks across open countryside. And the tranquil Kennet and Avon Canal – transformed from being the M4 of the eighteenth century to the haven for wildlife and leisure it is today. All this, together with some pretty villages, combine to make the Berkshire countryside special.

Landscape and History

Geographically the county is split in two. South-east of the Reading–Slough axis the soil is clay-based, mixed with areas of sand and pebbles (mainly in the area around Bracknell and Crowthorne). Near the Thames between Henley and Maidenhead the terrain is chalk-based, an outcrop of the Chiltern Hills of Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire on the other side of the river. West of Streatley are the superb chalk Wessex Downs, a continuation of the Chilterns, making for wide open spaces. In the folds of the downs are some pretty villages. In contrast to the chalk downs is the recently restored Kennet and Avon Canal, the towpath offering a haven of peace and tranquillity as it winds its way along the Kennet and Avon Valley.

Apart from the well-known Windsor and Eton there are few stately homes in Berkshire that are open to the public. The Duke of Wellington’s Stratfield Saye (near Walk 10) is actually in Hampshire. Donnington Castle near Newbury (Walk 13) still bears the scars of the Civil War. The Craven Family were prominent in West Berkshire. Although Hamstead Lodge (Walk 19) has now been destroyed – only the gateposts remain in splendid isolation in the middle of a field – the hunting lodge Ashdown House (Walk 17), is now owned by the National Trust. It is open on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons from April to October. The grand staircase surrounded by many portraits of the Craven Family leads up to a balcony with superb views across the Downs. On a smaller scale, the old Rectory at Farnborough (Walk 15) is visible from the road. It is not open to the public despite being owned by Sir John Betjeman in the period after the Second World War. The Thames Path crosses in front of Culham Court (also not open to the public).

There are a number of prehistoric monuments in Berkshire, notably the Iron Age forts at Caesar’s Camp in Bracknell Forest (Walk 3) and Walbury Hill (Walk 20). Up on the Lambourn Downs is a series of Bronze Age burial mounds at Seven Barrows, to the north of Lambourn (Walk 17). Across the north of the county runs the Ridgeway, one of Europe’s oldest roads (the earliest evidence of it being used was in the Bronze Age), a drovers’ route across the Chalk Downs from Dorset to East Anglia (Walk 14).

Using the Guide

The walks in this book are suitable for most weekend walkers, although a higher level of stamina is required for the slightly more challenging treks across the Downs. The walks range from 6 to 13 miles (9.5 to 21km) and all of them start and end at the same place (usually a car park).

The walks start in Windsor in the east and progress roughly westwards across the county, ending up at Inkpen near the Wiltshire border. The range of walks was chosen to cover a cross-section of the varied landscapes of the county. The factfiles at the start of each walk give the distance, approximate time for the average walker to complete the route (not allowing for stops), maps required, starting point with grid reference, and details of any refreshments – most of the walks have a pub or two along the way. Initial information in the sidebar provides a brief overview of the route. The main route description begins with directions to your starting point. Points along the route where there is a significant change of direction are highlighted with emboldened letters (A, B) which correspond with those on the maps. Background information is given in italic type at relevant points in the route description.

Maps

Berkshire is covered by the OS Landranger 1:50 000 sheets 174 and 175, which give a good general view of the area. However the Explorer sheets are better for walking as they also show the field boundaries. The county is covered by sheets 158, 159, 160, 170, 171 and 172. It is recommended that you take the Ordnance Survey map on the walk as well as this guidebook.

Paths

Paths are generally well waymarked. Where the walk crosses farmland PLEASE keep to the path – remember that the farmer has to make a living out of the land you are walking across. Now that Berkshire has been divided into six unitary district councils (Bracknell, West Berkshire, Reading, Slough, Windsor and Maidenhead, and Wokingham) it is hoped that the standard of waymarking will be maintained.

Transport

Thames Trains run a fairly reliable service across the county between Slough and Hungerford. Buses link the main towns with the smaller towns and villages. If you are intending to use public transport, it is advisable to make enquiries before you travel. The relevant telephone enquiry lines are:

Thames Trains (National Enquiry Line): tel 0345 48 49 50 (www.thamestrains.co.uk)

Newbury Buses: tel 01635 523700

Reading Buses: tel 0118 959 4000 (www.reading-buses.co.uk)

Car parking is not generally a problem. Please be considerate if parking on-road.

General

Most of the walks have pubs en route which all offer a range of bar food (though some might not be open on certain weekday lunchtimes) varying from filled rolls to gourmet meals. Otherwise there are still some village stores.

This is historically a Christian country and in each of the villages the church is the central building. However not all the churches are always open. Most churches publish a small guidebook for a modest price, which goes towards maintaining the building.