Scotland’s Mountain Ridges - A Guide to Scrambles and Climbs
Scotland’s Mountain Ridges
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Route 3 - South Ridge Direct, Rosa Pinnacle, Cir Mhor
Grade: 405m VS
Distance: 13km
Ascent: 779m
Time: 10½ hours
Start / finish: Glen Rosa campsite (NS000377) – limited car parking beside the track.
Map: OS Landranger (1:50000) 69
Accommodation: See route no.1
Sleeping out: Those spending more than one day climbing on Cir Mhor can spare themselves legwork by sleeping under the Rosa Pinnacle. There are grassy camping and bivvying sites by several large boulders near the base of the crag.
Public transport: See route no.1
Seasonal notes: A true winter ascent would be a mixed climbing challenge, not least for the rarity of full conditions. However many in the climbing community would take a very dim view of anyone selfish enough to damage such a well-loved summer rock classic with winter tools.
Quality and difficulty don’t necessarily go together. It is just a happy coincidence then that the hardest rock climb described in this book also happens to be the best. Perfect rock, airy positions, varied pitches, character-building cruxes, an irresistible line and considerable length all unite to optimum effect on South Ridge Direct. This is one of the greatest mountain trips in Britain, a world-class mid-grade climb that everyone ought to do at least once in their lives; indeed, once probably isn’t enough. Cir Mhor is a hugely impressive pyramidal rock peak, the centrepiece of Arran’s magnificent ridge system. Piercing the flank of the mountain is the Rosa Pinnacle, a major crag by anyone’s standards. South Ridge Direct climbs its full height. Sweeping slabs, steep overlaps and blocky walls give it the monumental character so typical of Arran granite. Faced with rounded cracks and a general lack of small incuts, newcomers to the area may find the climbing quite butch for the grade. Despite the granite’s knuckle-grazing roughness, friction is poor in the wet. Three named pitches merit the VS grade – the rest are easier.
Approach
As for route no.2, but instead of contouring into Coire Daingean continue on the eroded mess of a path up to Fionn Choire. Cir Mhor has dominated the view for some time by now, and at close quarters it is particularly striking, the Rosa Pinnacle doing its best impression of a Chamonix Aiguille. A climber’s path branches off right to reach the foot of the crag at the base of an area of scrappy slabs. Allow about 2½ hours from the campsite.
Climb
South Ridge Direct 405m VS
Pitch 1, 50m
Climb easily from the lowest patch of rock, following a crack up a slab, and then a series of slabby ribs and vegetated sections by a line of your choice – bold but easy.
Pitch 2, 50m
Run out another rope-length up this straightforward ground, bearing slightly right to climb a short steepening via a little chimney, and then belaying on a slabby terrace below a bulging wall.
Pitch 3, 35m 4a
Sidle right along a horizontal crack, then up a slabby rib to the base of the wall where it is broken into big blocks/flakes. Pull strenuously up these, then foot traverse left along an obvious break to belay on a ledge below the famous S-Crack.
Pitch 4, 20m 4c, The S-Crack
Popular wisdom has it that the S-Crack is so named for its sinuous shape; but while getting to grips with its curves you could be forgiven for thinking that S signifies ‘sustained’. Fight your way up the relentlessly steep crack, jamming, bridging and laybacking. There are few positive holds, but plenty of runners – the challenge is not to hang around placing extraneous bits of protection and getting pumped. A surprise bucket hold provides a welcome jug before the strenuous top-out. Move left onto a sloping shelf to belay from a big perched flake (hint: it’s worth arranging an upward-pulling anchor under the flake in case the leader fluffs the next pitch).
Pitch 5, 10m 5a, The Y-Crack
As with the previous pitch, the prosaic explanation for the name involves its resemblance to a particular letter (can you guess which one?). In the heat of the moment however, struggling leaders might think instead that Y stands for ‘why oh why didn’t I let my mate lead this bit?’ The difficulties are short, but very sharp. Step off the flake and climb rounded cracks to the abrupt steepening from slabby to overhanging. Having placed reliable protection, power up the cracks to the arm-sapping top-out. You will be disappointed to discover that the prominent ‘cat’s ears’ at the top are by no stretch of the imagination jugs; it may in fact prove easier to aim further right. Belay with relief in a slabby niche.
Pitch 6, 50m
Foot traverse up left on an obvious diagonal crack to reach a boulder-covered ledge. Move around a blunt rib, and make a long easy traverse along the top of a huge sweep of slabs. Belay at the far end just below the next steep tier, where it is breached by a deep right-angled corner.
Pitch 7, 25m 4b, The Layback Crack
Gain the right-angled corner crack, which is climbed by strenuous laybacking. Leaders with strong arms can continue all the way up the crack (hard work), but it is customary to quit it after a few metres, where a raised seam cuts off rightwards. Follow this, swinging extravagantly from jug to jug across the slabby wall with smears for your feet. This is bold, unless you’ve a very small cam. The seam leads to another blocky corner, where there’s good gear. More laybacking then gains a block-covered ledge.
Pitch 8, 30m 4a, Three-Tier Chimney
A good old-fashioned struggle that will leave the bouldering / climbing wall fraternity at a loss. Climb the chimney system above the ledge, three steep steps with brief rests in between. The chockstone at the top is a welcome positive handhold, though it feels a little impermanent. Move right up to the ridge crest to belay.
Pitches 9 and 10, 60m
Continue easily in a grand position, moving left at one point to stay with clean rock on the arete to reach The Terrace.
Possible descent
This grassy diagonal rake marks the end of the VS climbing, and is a useful means of descent in failing daylight; climb it until safe ground leads off left above the crag to reach the path down Cir Mhor’s South West Ridge. From here Glen Rosa is easily regained.
Continuation
The Upper Pinnacle, 75m VDiff
This great wedge forms the spire of the Rosa Pinnacle, as seen from a distance. It is set slightly to the right of the lower crag, immediately above The Terrace. Though it can be avoided, it shouldn’t be. Ascend it in three pitches, starting up the W flank from The Terrace.
Climb a little wall onto a slab, which is followed until a chimney leads onto a grassy belay platform. Walk left along the platform to another short chimney; climb slabby ground just to its right, onto the ridge crest. Cross to the Pinnacle’s E face, traversing airily rightwards into a corner. This leads to a belay stance. A brief climb up a last corner and slab wins the top of the Pinnacle.
Scramble down W to the grassy gap below Cir Mhor’s craggy summit. The mountain is quickly dispatched by a slabby scramble up its left flank to the fine pointed peak.
Descent
Follow the South West Ridge path, as above.
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