Guidebook to more than 450 winter climbs in the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh, with a wide selection of snow, ice and mixed routes of varying grades and lengths. Includes straightforward grade I snow gullies through to extreme ice and mixed climbs of grade VII and above. 

• Selected Scottish winter climbs in the Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm, Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird, Lochnagar, Glen Clova and Creag Meaghaidh
• Clear route descriptions accompanied by symbols denoting the type of climb (snow, ice and mixed) and photographic topo diagrams
• Advice on how the required snow, ice or mixed conditions form for each climb, as well as how to evaluate avalanche risk 
• Approach maps for each climbing area show the best routes to access each crag
• Main centres include Aviemore, Braemar and Ballater, while outlying areas are accessible from Fort William and Dundee
• Route highlights include The Black Spout; Savage Slit; Deep-cut Chimney; Eagle Ridge; Smith’s Gully 

Topos key

Introduction

Weather and conditions

Types of winter climbs: snow, ice and mixed

Ethics

Logistics

Equipment

Navigation

Mountain rescue

Avalanches

Using this guide

Northern Cairngorms

The Northern Crags

Creagan Cha-no

Coire an t-Sneachda

Coire an Lochain

Lurcher’s Crag

Sron na Lairige

The Loch Avon basin

Stac an Fharaidh

Stag Rocks

Hell’s Lum Crag

Garbh Uisge Crag

Shelter Stone Crag

Carn Etchachan

The Ben MacDui crags

Creagan a’Choire Etchachan

Coire Sputan Dearg

The Cairn Toul/Braeriach amphitheatre

Angel’s Peak

Corrie of the Chokestone Gully

Garbh Choire Mor

Garbh Choire Dhaidh

Coire Bhrochain

Beinn a’Bhuird

Coire na Ciche

Garbh Choire

Southern Cairngorms

The Loch Muick crags

Lochnagar

Creag an Dubh Loch

Eagles Rock

Broad Cairn Bluffs

Glen Clova

The Winter Corrie

Corrie Fee

Creag Meagaidh

Coire Ardair

Appendix A Useful contacts

Appendix B Route summary table by area

Seasons

December to March are the most reliable months for winter climbing, but mixed routes are often possible in November and snow gullies into late April.

Centres

Aviemore and Deeside (Braemar and Ballater) are the main centres.

Difficulty

Winter climbing requires a good level of fitness, stamina and the ability to navigate and assess avalanche conditions. This book includes straightforward Grade I snow gullies through to extreme ice and mixed climbs of Grade VII and above.

Must See

Towering cliffs of Shelter Stone Crag, Lochnagar and Creag Meagaidh, accessible corries of Cairn Gorm and Glen Clova, remote recesses of Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird. Route highlights include The Black Spout; Savage Slit; Deep-cut Chimney; Eagle Ridge; Smith’s Gully.

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