Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe

By Mike Pescod

Guidebook to the best winter climbing routes around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, with nearly 1000 buttresses, ridges and gullies described, all illustrated with photo topos. The best routes and access points and a wide choice of options for all grades and types of climb. Scottish winter climbing on Ben Nevis, the peaks of Glen Coe and other mountains.



from October to May with February and March offering the most reliable climbing and April the unique ice climbing that Ben Nevis is famed for


Fort William and Glen Coe on the west coast of Scotland


everything from first steps in grade I snow gullies to the hardest traditional winter climb in the world with information on how to judge the climbing conditions and choose the best route
Must See

Must See

from the classic climbs of Point Five Gully, the Aonach Eagach and Crowberry Gully to the modern masterpieces of The Secret and Anubis, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and Beag, The Grey Coires and Mamores, Bidean nam Bian and Buachaille Etive Mor
20 Dec 2010
17.2 x 11.6 x 2.5cm
  • Overview

    Ben Nevis is back at the centre of Scottish winter climbing, and features the hardest traditional winter climbing in the world. This guidebook describes over 900 climbs here and around Glen Coe, including all the new routes of the last eight years and, for the first time, routes on the newly developed crags on Stob Coire nan Laoigh and Mullach nan Coirean.

    • illustrated on 89 colour photo-topos
    • information on where to go and what to climb in different weather, snow and ice conditions and how to judge
    • anecdotes from well-known climbers for further insights and inspiration.
  • Contents

    List of diagrams           



    Climbing conditions           
    Weather and avalanches           
    Access rights           
    Equipment and safety           
    Using this guide           
    Rescue facilities           

    BEN NEVIS           

    CENTRAL AREA           

    Approaches for Ben Nevis           
    Descents from Ben Nevis           
    Ben Nevis – general topography

    Climbs from Coire Leis           
    Little Brenva Face           

    Climbs from Observatory Gully           
    The Minus Face           
    The Orion Face           
    Observatory Ridge           
    Observatory Buttress           
    Indicator Wall           
    Gardyloo Buttress           
    Tower Ridge – East Side           
    Douglas Boulder           

    Climbs from Coire na Ciste           
    Tower Ridge – West Side           
    The Upper Cascades           
    The Comb           
    Number Three Gully Buttress           
    Creag Coire na Ciste           
    The Trident Buttresses           
    Carn Dearg Buttress           
    Carn Dearg Summit Gullies           

    Climbs from Castle Coire           
    The Castle           
    North Face of Castle Ridge           

    ‘A big ride’ by Dave Macleod            

    OUTLYING AREAS            

    Stob Ban           
    Mullach nan Coirean           

    Glen Nevis           
    Five Finger Gully Area           

    Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag            
    Aonach Mor East Face – Coire an Lochain           
    Aonach Mor West Face           
    Sgurr Finnisg-aig – Allt na h-Aire cascade           
    Aonach Beag North Face           
    Aonach Beag West Face           

    Stob Coire an Laoigh           

    ‘A long way down’ by Mike Pescod            

    GLEN COE           

    CENTRAL AREA           

    Climbs from Coire nam Beith           
    Stob Coire nam Beith           
    West Top of Bidean nam Bian           

    Bidean nam Bian           
    Diamond Buttress           
    Collie’s Pinnacle           
    Church Door Buttress           

    Aonach Dubh           
    West Face of Aonach Dubh           
    North Face of Aonach Dubh           
    East Face of Aonach Dubh           

    Stob Coire nan Lochan           
    West and North Faces of Gearr Aonach           

    Climbs from Coire Gabhail           
    East Face of Gearr Aonach           
    Lost Valley Minor Buttress            
    Lost Valley Buttress           
    Beinn Fhada and Stob Coire Sgreamhach           
    Lost Valley Ice Slabs           
    North Face of Beinn Fhada           

    Buachaille Etive Mor – Stob Dearg           
    Stob Dearg from Glen Etive – South East Face           
    Stob Dearg – North East Face – Lagangarbh approach            
    Coire na Tulaich            
    Stob Coire Altruim           

    The Aonach Eagach           
    Aonach Eagach – South Flank           

    ‘Haunt of the raven’ by Hamish MacInnes            

    OUTLYING AREAS            

    Beinn Fhionnlaidh           

    Beinn a’Bheithir           
    Sgorr Dhonuill           

    Sgor na h-Ulaidh           

    A’Chaillach South East Face           

    Sron na Lairig           

    Glen Etive           
    Glen Ceitlein Slabs           
    Beinn Trilleachan – Etive Slabs           
    Ben Starav – Stob Choire Dheirg           

    Stob a’Ghlais Choire           

    Beinn Udlaidh           

    Appendix A: Accommodation for climbers          
    Appendix B: Index of routes                 

  • Updates
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  • Reviews

    'This is the sixth edition of this select guide to Winter Climbs in the Lochaber region, and it’s the first to be authored by Mike Pescod. Pescod is stepping into some weighty shoes with the previous authors being Ian Clough, Hamish MacInnes, Ed Grindley and Alan Kimber. Thankfully Pescod is up to the task and this could be the best edition yet.

    Pescod knows these hills intimately, having worked as a local guide, and spending much of his life enabling others to enjoy the wealth of climbing in this area. His knowledge is evident throughout this book, with over 40 pages of notes, diagrams and maps covering safety, access and planning a trip before the first climb is even described.

    In summary, this is a well thought out and very useful guide covering enough climbs for most visitors lifetimes. For the majority of winter climbers in search of classics this book is good value but the inclusion of the latest testpieces should also have the young tigers shelling out their Christmas book tokens.'

    Climb magazine, February 2011

    'Following on eight years since Alan Kimber’s last guide, this seventh edition by guide Mike Pescod is a truly masterful piece of work.

    Not only do we have included all the new routes, but also fantastic photo topos of each route crag and buttress.

    The guide is also packed with advice on route choice and conditions, avalanche rescue and safety information. For the first time the newly developed crags of Stob Coire nan Laoigh and Mullach nan Coirean are also included. Lastly, this excellent new edition has bucked the trend of guide books getting so big and fat you don’t want to pop them in the top of your sack any more.'

    Mountain Rescue magazine, January 2011

    'This guidebook takes a huge selection (over 900) of the best climbs and, in a marriage of many generations of local knowledge combined with modern computer technology, produces… an excellent, well laid-out and very easy to use guidebook which I would highly recommend to anyone intending to visit Lochaber for winter shenanigans. The wealth of routes described will allow the reader a lifetime of winter visits to Lochaber and to experience the very best of Scottish winter climbing.

    An outstanding guide to the area.'

    Irish Mountain Log, Summer 2011

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Mike Pescod

Mike Pescod

Having climbed on Ben Nevis and in Glen Coe for fifteen years, Mike Pescod has an in depth knowledge of the climbs, the weather and the conditions you can experience here. Working full time as a mountain guide here for ten years, Mike has been on Ben Nevis over a thousand times and regularly spends up to a hundred days climbing each winter both professionally and recreationally.
Mike has been on climbing trips right across Europe as well as to Russia, Tadjikistan, Nepal, East Africa and Peru but it is the unique quality of the climbing in Scotland that gives him the most enjoyment and satisfaction.
With his wife, Louise, he runs a mountain guiding and instruction company and has every intention of climbing in the hills here for many years to come.

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