Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe
By Mike Pescod
Guidebook to the best winter climbing routes around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, with nearly 1000 buttresses, ridges and gullies described, all illustrated with photo topos. The best routes and access points and a wide choice of options for all grades and types of climb. Scottish winter climbing on Ben Nevis, the peaks of Glen Coe and other mountains.
Seasonsfrom October to May with February and March offering the most reliable climbing and April the unique ice climbing that Ben Nevis is famed for
CentresFort William and Glen Coe on the west coast of Scotland
Difficultyeverything from first steps in grade I snow gullies to the hardest traditional winter climb in the world with information on how to judge the climbing conditions and choose the best route
Must Seefrom the classic climbs of Point Five Gully, the Aonach Eagach and Crowberry Gully to the modern masterpieces of The Secret and Anubis, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and Beag, The Grey Coires and Mamores, Bidean nam Bian and Buachaille Etive Mor
Ben Nevis is back at the centre of Scottish winter climbing, and features the hardest traditional winter climbing in the world. This guidebook describes over 900 climbs here and around Glen Coe, including all the new routes of the last eight years and, for the first time, routes on the newly developed crags on Stob Coire nan Laoigh and Mullach nan Coirean.
- illustrated on 89 colour photo-topos
- information on where to go and what to climb in different weather, snow and ice conditions and how to judge
- anecdotes from well-known climbers for further insights and inspiration.
List of diagrams
Weather and avalanches
Equipment and safety
Using this guide
Approaches for Ben Nevis
Descents from Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis – general topography
Climbs from Coire Leis
Little Brenva Face
Climbs from Observatory Gully
The Minus Face
The Orion Face
Tower Ridge – East Side
Climbs from Coire na Ciste
Tower Ridge – West Side
The Upper Cascades
Number Three Gully Buttress
Creag Coire na Ciste
The Trident Buttresses
Carn Dearg Buttress
Carn Dearg Summit Gullies
Climbs from Castle Coire
North Face of Castle Ridge
‘A big ride’ by Dave Macleod
Mullach nan Coirean
Five Finger Gully Area
Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag
Aonach Mor East Face – Coire an Lochain
Aonach Mor West Face
Sgurr Finnisg-aig – Allt na h-Aire cascade
Aonach Beag North Face
Aonach Beag West Face
Stob Coire an Laoigh
‘A long way down’ by Mike Pescod
Climbs from Coire nam Beith
Stob Coire nam Beith
West Top of Bidean nam Bian
Bidean nam Bian
Church Door Buttress
West Face of Aonach Dubh
North Face of Aonach Dubh
East Face of Aonach Dubh
Stob Coire nan Lochan
West and North Faces of Gearr Aonach
Climbs from Coire Gabhail
East Face of Gearr Aonach
Lost Valley Minor Buttress
Lost Valley Buttress
Beinn Fhada and Stob Coire Sgreamhach
Lost Valley Ice Slabs
North Face of Beinn Fhada
Buachaille Etive Mor – Stob Dearg
Stob Dearg from Glen Etive – South East Face
Stob Dearg – North East Face – Lagangarbh approach
Coire na Tulaich
Stob Coire Altruim
The Aonach Eagach
Aonach Eagach – South Flank
‘Haunt of the raven’ by Hamish MacInnes
Sgor na h-Ulaidh
A’Chaillach South East Face
Sron na Lairig
Glen Ceitlein Slabs
Beinn Trilleachan – Etive Slabs
Ben Starav – Stob Choire Dheirg
Stob a’Ghlais Choire
Appendix A: Accommodation for climbers
Appendix B: Index of routes
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'This is the sixth edition of this select guide to Winter Climbs in the Lochaber region, and it’s the first to be authored by Mike Pescod. Pescod is stepping into some weighty shoes with the previous authors being Ian Clough, Hamish MacInnes, Ed Grindley and Alan Kimber. Thankfully Pescod is up to the task and this could be the best edition yet.
Pescod knows these hills intimately, having worked as a local guide, and spending much of his life enabling others to enjoy the wealth of climbing in this area. His knowledge is evident throughout this book, with over 40 pages of notes, diagrams and maps covering safety, access and planning a trip before the first climb is even described.
In summary, this is a well thought out and very useful guide covering enough climbs for most visitors lifetimes. For the majority of winter climbers in search of classics this book is good value but the inclusion of the latest testpieces should also have the young tigers shelling out their Christmas book tokens.'
Climb magazine, February 2011
'Following on eight years since Alan Kimber’s last guide, this seventh edition by guide Mike Pescod is a truly masterful piece of work.
Not only do we have included all the new routes, but also fantastic photo topos of each route crag and buttress.
The guide is also packed with advice on route choice and conditions, avalanche rescue and safety information. For the first time the newly developed crags of Stob Coire nan Laoigh and Mullach nan Coirean are also included. Lastly, this excellent new edition has bucked the trend of guide books getting so big and fat you don’t want to pop them in the top of your sack any more.'
Mountain Rescue magazine, January 2011
'This guidebook takes a huge selection (over 900) of the best climbs and, in a marriage of many generations of local knowledge combined with modern computer technology, produces… an excellent, well laid-out and very easy to use guidebook which I would highly recommend to anyone intending to visit Lochaber for winter shenanigans. The wealth of routes described will allow the reader a lifetime of winter visits to Lochaber and to experience the very best of Scottish winter climbing.
An outstanding guide to the area.'
Irish Mountain Log, Summer 2011
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Having climbed on Ben Nevis and in Glen Coe for fifteen years, Mike Pescod has an in depth knowledge of the climbs, the weather and the conditions you can experience here. Working full time as a mountain guide here for ten years, Mike has been on Ben Nevis over a thousand times and regularly spends up to a hundred days climbing each winter both professionally and recreationally.
Mike has been on climbing trips right across Europe as well as to Russia, Tadjikistan, Nepal, East Africa and Peru but it is the unique quality of the climbing in Scotland that gives him the most enjoyment and satisfaction.
With his wife, Louise, he runs a mountain guiding and instruction company and has every intention of climbing in the hills here for many years to come.