Trekking in Ladakh

Update on the effects of the Zanskar River flood on trekking routes

A flood on Tsarab and Zanskar rivers in Ladakh in May this year destroyed many bridges and parts of newly-built roads. This has effected some trekking routes in the area and much damage has not been repaired will last into next trekking season, too. Trekking is possible but alternative pathways need to be followed in places.

The following information records what the author recorded on his latest visit, in late September:

• The route along the Tsarab River between Barandy Nala (Gian) and the abandoned village of Hormoche (Trek 2) has been repaired and is fine. However, this is an autumn option, usually not accessible earlier than the beginning of September due to high water levels.
• All the way along Niri Chu (the Niri River) down to its confluence with Tsarab and the route along Tsarab to Yata and then down to Phukthal (Treks 2 and 4) is fine.
• The bridge on Tsarab just below the Phuktal Monastery en-route between the gompa and Purni as well as the bridge on the Kargyak River just before its confluence with Tsarab in Purni had been washed away but new bridges have been built already. I saw the bridge in Phukthal but did not see the one in Purni and the one below Phuktal (Treks 2 and 4 as well as a side trip on Trek 3) is a simple footbridge, not suitable for horses.
• My Zanskari friends also tell me that it is fine to follow the route on the right side of the river between Phuktal and Cha village (Trek 2).
• The bridge in Cha below the confluence of Tsarab and Kargyak rivers has been already rebuilt but again it is not strong enough for horses. There is no bridge below it down the valley as far as Raru but it is possible to trek on either side of the valley (I tested the route between the Enmu village and the Raru bridge on the right side of the river).
• The Pepula campsite (Treks 2, 3 and 4) no longer exists and there are no camping nor homestay options on the left side of the Lungnak (Tsarab Lingti) rive between Changpa Tsetan and Raru.
• There is no longer a bridge between Changpa Tsetan and Enmu and the bridges in Dorzong and Ichar have also gone. The road between the Enmu village and Pobre (the solitary house half way between Enmu and Dorzong on the right bank), which was built in recent years, is badly damaged but passable.
• If you reach Ichar on the right bank of the river there is no other option than to continue to the Raru bridge on Tsarab. It is a bit tough on a high traverse but views are rewarding. It is also fine to walk on the left side of the river although the part of the road between the place where the Ichar road bridge was and the Raru village was washed away during the flood - there is a footpath.
• The pedestrian bridge over the Lungnak (Tsarab Lingti), just below its confluence with Raru Nala, had been partially damaged but it have been rebuilt already. It is fine both for people and horses. As reported by the local people, the road bridge over Raru Nala was not effected.
• The bridge connecting the two banks of Lungnak in Pibcha village was not seriously effected and can be crossed by people and animals. The next bridge (a road one) is in Pibiting near to Padum, just above the confluence of Lungnak (Tsarab Lingti) and Stod (Doda) which marks the beginning of the Zanskar River.
• The bridge over Zanskar which existed near to Zangla and Pishu no longer exists (according to local contacts). The Padum - Hanumer - Lingshed route is fine again now and the way is clear.
• The bridge in Niearak was destroyed but I do not have any information whether it was rebuilt.
• The road bridge on the Zanskar River just below its confluence with Markha which was built in 2014 to link Chiling and Kaya villages was washed away in May. As this point marks an alternative beginning of the Markha Valley Trek (Route 8) we had to use rafts to start the trek in mid-May this year. I am told that there is a trolley (a kind of simple cable-car) crossing at this point at the moment.
• The road bridge on Zanskar below Chiling as well as the bridge on Indus just before the confluence of the two rivers survived the flood so the road connecting Chiling with Leh is open.