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A guidebook to mountain activities in and near Chamonix in the French Alps. Walking, trekking, mountaineering including Cosmiques Arete and Mont Blanc, mountain biking, road cycling, via ferratas, rock climbing and bouldering routes, with clear advice for novices, and suggested levels of expertise required. Ideal for multi-activity holidays.
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This guidebook shows the vast range of activities available in the mountains surrounding Chamonix. With routes for several different pursuits including walking, trail running, mountain biking, road cycling, via ferratas, rock climbing, mountaineering and bouldering, it is a comprehensive collection of everything this popular region has to offer.
All the routes and activities range in difficulty, from easy strolls for all abilities to moderate rock climbs and glacier hikes, which require either technical skills or a professional guide. Families, groups of friends and mountaineers looking for a 'rest day' or a change to what they're used to will all find something to whet their appetites here.
Chamonix has long been a dream destination for mountain adventures and its environment is ideal for such a varied list of activities. This guide allows you to enjoy its spectacular views and renowned summits in many different ways or by mixing and matching your favourites.
Location of walking and mountaineering routes
Location of road biking and mountain biking routes
Location of rock climbing, bouldering and via ferrata routes
Chamonix town map
Map key
Introduction
The region
Glaciers
Flowers and animals
How it all started
Mountain adventures
Other activities
When to go
Getting there and getting around
Accommodation
Tourist information
Language
Health and safety
Using this guide
1 Walks
Classic Walks
Route 1 Mont Joly
Route 2 Le Prarion
Route 3 Aiguillette des Houches
Route 4 Montagne de la Côte
Route 5 Lac Cornu and Lacs Noirs
Route 6 Plan de l’Aiguille to Montenvers
Route 7 Grand Balcon Sud: La Flégère to Planpraz
Route 8 Aiguillette des Posettes
Route 9 Lac Blanc from the Col des Montets
Route 10 Mont Buet by the Normal Route
Family Walks
Route 1 Lac des Ilettes
Route 2 Lacs Jovet
Route 3 Chalets Miage and Truc
Route 4 Charousse
Route 5 Lac du Brévent
Route 6 Argentière via the Paradis des Praz
Route 7 Le Chapeau
Route 8 Montroc–Col des Montets–Vallorcine
Route 9 Bérard valley and Sur le Rocher
Route 10 Dinosaur tracks
Hut Walks
Route 1 Refuge de Platé
Route 2 Refuge de Tré-la-Tête
Route 3 Refuge Moëde d’Anterne
Route 4 Refuge Bel Lachat
Route 5 Refuge du Lac Blanc
Route 6 Refuge Albert Premier
Route 7 Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard
Route 8 Refuge de Loriaz
Adventure Walks
Route 1 Pointe Percée
Route 2 The Dérochoir and Désert de Platé
Route 3 Aiguille du Belvédère
Route 4 Mer de Glace Balcony Trail
Route 5 Tré-les-Eaux Circuit
Route 6 Loriaz to Emosson
Route 7 Mont Buet by the North Ridge
Route 8 Cheval Blanc
2 Alpine Mountaineering
Route 1 Champex to Le Tour
Route 2 Grand Montets to Lognan
Route 3 Aiguille du Midi to Helbronner
Route 4 Petite Aiguille Verte
Route 5 Aiguille Crochues
Route 6 Aiguille du Tour
Route 7 The Cosmiques Arête
Route 8 Mont Blanc
3 Mountain Biking
Route 1 Les Contamines: Truc Miage circuit
Route 2 Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: Prarion circuit
Route 3 Pipeline descent: Saint-Gervais to Le Fayet
Route 4 Tour des Ayères
Route 5 Promenade de l’Arve
Route 6 Petit Balcon Nord: Chamonix to Le Tour
Route 7 Montroc to Chamonix along the Arve
Route 8 Col des Montets to the chocolate shops
Route 9 Vallorcine–Col des Posettes–Le Tour–Montroc
Route 10 Vallorcine to Martigny
4 Road Biking
Route 1 Chamonix to Sallanches
Route 2 Col des Montets
Route 3 Emosson Lake
Route 4 Col de la Forclaz
5 Rock Climbing and Bouldering
Area 1 Les Gaillands
Area 2 The Index
Area 3 La Joux
Area 4 Les Chéserys
Area 5 Aiguillette d’Argentière
Area 6 Vallorcine Slab (Rocher de la Saix)
Area 7 Barberine
Bouldering
Area 1 Col des Montets
Area 2 Pierre d’Orthaz
Area 3 Les Bossons
Area 4 Le Coupeau
Area 5 Le Médonnet
6 Via Ferratas
Route 1 Le Mont, Sixt Fer à Cheval
Route 2 La Curalla, Passy
Route 3 La Yves Pollet Villard, La Clusaz
Route 4 La Roche à l’Agathe, Thônes
Appendix A Useful contacts
Appendix B Useful French words and phrases
Appendix C Further reading
Appendix D Glacier travel and rescue techniques
The French Institut Géographique National Top 25 series maps are the best for the activities described here. The ones needed are:
A 1:50,000 map is useful to get an overview of the region, and for the road biking routes. The whole area is covered by the IGN Rando Editions map A1 Alpes Pays du Mont Blanc.
If you use a GPS, programme it to datum WGS84 and grid system UTM/UPS otherwise all grid references will be inaccurate.
Referred to as cable cars, chairlifts or gondolas, lifts are written in French as téléphérique, télésiège and télécabine and shown with a symbol on the maps.
July 2024
Since the first edition of this book (2012) both the glacier and access to it have changed completely. The glacier has undergone an unimaginable retreat and volume reduction, and the original accesses to it (the télécabine and steps to the grotte de glace and the 'alpinist's' ladders) have been either removed and/or decommissioned.
A new (and quite controversial) télécabine has been built and instead of heading straight down to the mer de glace, its route is more diagonal and its lower terminal is a few hundred meters further up the glacier, and therefore nearer to the ladder system on the far side of the glacier. There is an equipped route down for alpinists and climbers which requires technical equipment, however, walkers are strongly advised to take the télécabine to access the glacier.
Since the first edition of this book (2012) both the glacier and access to it have changed completely. The glacier has undergone an unimaginable retreat and volume reduction, and the original accesses to it (the télécabine and steps to the grotte de glace and the 'alpinist's' ladders) have been either removed and/or decommissioned.
A new (and quite controversial) télécabine has been built and instead of heading straight down to the mer de glace, its route is more diagonal and its lower terminal is a few hundred meters further up the glacier, and therefore nearer to the ladder system on the far side of the glacier. There is an equipped route down for alpinists and climbers which requires technical equipment, however, walkers are strongly advised to take the télécabine to access the glacier.
September 2022
There has been a rockfall at Cosmiques Arête (Alpine mountaineering Route 7), so this route may not be practical at the moment.
September 2022
August 2022
The Grands Montets cable car is under reconstruction. As of summer 2022 the only lift open in this area is the Plan Joran télécabine, which runs during July and August. More information from the Chamonix website www.chamonix.com/informations-remontees-mecaniques-en-temps-reel
July 2020
1 The Cosmiques Arête itinerary has changed due to a 2018 rockfall where there is a section of abseil. Now the abseil is on the north face and is 8m long. This website shows what has changed...it's in French but the topo is quite clear.
2 The Mer de Glace Balcony Route has changed in several places and at the moment seems to be unmaintained in parts and therefore is not recommended. I had already reported that it is no longer possible to traverse beneath the Charpoua Refuge and that the Echelets ladders were no longer in use. Now it seems the ladders for the Leschaux Refuge have been moved and the Egralets ladders are not being maintained; there is loose moraine on the ledges between them. All in all it would not be wise to undertake this hike.
This information has come directly from La Chamoniarde (formerly known as the Office de Haute Montagne).
August 2013
The author writes:
"There is now a new walkway which goes where the old one did decades ago. It's all brand new this summer, and consists of a metal bridge which takes you round to look at the waterfall. Very good, impressive views and accessible to all except dogs which might not like the lattice work metal structure. It's just a detour off the main trail described in the walk, so it's an extra. A stairway then goes up to join the normal path at the bridge by the café."
The wrong map appears on pg 11. The correct map below.
Hilary Sharp is British, a qualified Accompagnatrice en Montagne (International Mountain Leader), and is based permanently in France. After 23 years living in the Alps she now lives in northern Provence, within easy driving distance of the southern French Alps. She runs her own trekking business, Trekking in the Alps and Provence, guiding walks in winter, spring and summer (hilaryalp@gmail.com; www.trekkinginthealps.com; www.trekkinginprovence.com). Her love of walking and climbing has taken her to many parts of Europe and further afield. Hilary occasionally contributes to British walking magazines and is author of Trekking and Climbing in the Western Alps (New Holland, 2002).
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