Via Ferratas of the French Alps

With some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, the French Alps have long been a popular destination for a wide range of outdoor activities. In recent years, the region has seen the arrival of a growing number of via ferrata routes.

Via ferrata climbing – using fixed cables, bridges and ladders to explore terrain that is normally only accessible to experienced rock climbers – combines elements of scrambling, mountaineering and rock climbing, yet is a very distinct pursuit. Increasingly popular, recent years have seen a surge in the number of routes being established in these iconic mountains.

The routes in this guidebook range from straightforward, protected walks suitable for beginners and children, through to highly strenuous and massively exposed challenges suitable only for those with experience. The guide gives full explanations of all the techniques and equipment required and all routes are graded for difficulty, exposure and seriousness.

Geneva and the Northern Alps - the area covered in this chapter encompasses the Chablais, Haute Giffre, Borne, Avrias and Beaufortain ranges within the Alps as well as the southern end of the Jura Massif. The 12 via ferrata routes described are spread out over a fairly wide area, and are fairly representative of French via ferratas, being quite varied in both style and difficulty.

Chambery - the small city of Chambery, scenically located in a wide valley between two mountain ranges, is the capital of the Savoie department. Most of the routes in this chapter are located in the Chartreuse and Bauges massifs. They are mostly sports routes, which involve little rock contact, and several of them are suitable for novices.

Tarentaise - the Tarentaise Valley encompasses the upper reaches of the River Isere, from Moutiers in the west to Val-d'Isere at its eastern extremity. All the routes in this chapter are situated just to the south of the valley, within in the northern half of the Vanoise Massif.

Maurienne - the majority of routes in this chapter are located along the course of the valley of the River Arc. All of the routes in this chapter are sports routes that do not involve large amounts of rock contact. Most of them are fairly easy with only a handful of more difficult routes. Several of the easier routes would serve as ideal introductions to the activity.

Grenoble - the nine via ferratas in this chapter include an even mixture of sports routes and mountain routes. They are mostly mid-grade option and are not suitable for absolute beginners.

Briancon - of the via farratas covered in this chapter, two are in Briancon itself, three are to the north of the city along the Guisane Valley and 11 are located to the south. The routes are representative of a good range of difficulties, and quite a few of them involve more rock contact than is typical of French via ferratas. A number are suitable for novices.

• 66 varied routes across six areas: Geneva and the Northern Alps, Chambéry, the Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, Grenoble and Briançon
• routes illustrated by sketch maps and topo diagrams
• glossary of via ferrata terminology and a list of useful French words and phrases

It is likely that the majority of readers will visit these routes by car; to that end a good, up-to-date, road atlas is highly recommended. Most of the routes cover a small area and make use of their own purpose-built approach and descent paths. For this reason, a topographical map will be of limited use.

However, for a handful of longer mountain routes such as the Via Ferrata d’Ugine (Route 11) or Via Ferrata l’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Route 51), one may come in handy. In any event, if you plan to extend your outing beyond the via ferrata or just wish to have a better appreciation of the surrounding landscape, a topographical map will be useful. The Institut Géographique National (IGN) produces the standard range of French topographic maps, which are of a similar quality to British Ordnance Survey maps. The most suitable series is the IGN Carte de Randonnée TOP25 series, which has a blue cover. These are widely available from newsagents and tourist offices throughout France and can also be ordered online. The IGN website (www.geoportail.fr), which features scalable topographical and satellite maps, is also extremely useful.

April 2016

There has been a product alert for Petzl ASPIR harnesses. Please see the the following link for details: https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/News/2016-4-22/Alert--malicious-acts-carried-out-on-ASPIR-harnesses#.Vxz1NTcrLxB. Readers should bear in mind the issue raised by this alert when making any purchase of via ferrata safety equipment from the internet.'

There has been a product recall for Black Diamond Via Ferrata self-belay lanyards. Please see the the following link for details: https://warranty.bdel.com/ViaFerrataRecall/Landing

Route 40 - Via Ferrata de la Cascade de L'Oule

This via ferrata remains closed and is unlikely to reopen during 2015

September 2014

Route 40 - Via Ferrata de la Cascade de L'Oule

This via ferrata has closed due to rock fall. It is not likely to reopen this year but should be usable again from spring 2015.

August 2014

New Via Ferrata Rocher de l'envers

A new via ferrata has opened close to the village of Saint-Vincent-de-Mercuze, which is located 10km to the north of Route 40 (page 224). The route is reportedly fairly easy and takes 2-3 hours to complete. It should be avoided in wet weather."

July 2014

New Via Ferrata Bellevaux

A new via ferrata has opened near the village of Bellevaux. This is located 10km south of Thonon-les-Bains, near Routes 3 and 4. It is reportedly free to use with your own equipment, quite large and incorporates a number of bridges and other elements, covering a range of difficulties. The local tourist office contact details can be found at http://ete.bellevaux.com/office-du-tourisme-bellevaux-val-d-hermone.html.

p204; Route 36 Via Ferrata du Rocher Saint Pierre – Stage A: 1ère Partie

An additional section of via ferrata has been added, which provides an easier alternative to the Échelle de Tichodrome.

p219; Route 39 Via Ferrata de l'Adret – Stage B: Le Bastion

This is reportedly closed for the whole of the 2014 season. Stage A is still open.

p300; Route 58 Via Ferrata des Gorges de la Durance

A new section of via ferrata has been added, which is designed specifically for small children (ages four and up).

p327; Route 64 Via Ferrata de Fort Queyras

As of mid-July 2014 this route has been temporarily closed due to an access dispute. Hopefully the dispute will be resolved quickly, but make sure to check with the local tourist office before visiting. Their contact details can be found at www.chateauvillevieille.com/office-tourisme-ete.html.

A bargain given the number of hours of enjoyment that could be had by doing all of the routes in the book.

The guide has been compiled by Richard Miller who clearly holds Via Ferratas close to his heart. There are a whopping 43 pages of introduction, detailing everything from safety, equipment and when to go. If you're not familiar with the process of 'doing' a Via Ferrata, or are planning to go yourself without calling at a tourist info centre first, then do take the time to read this section.

It's a bargain given the number of hours of enjoyment that could be had by doing all of the routes in the book.

Matt Heason

'This new book by Richard Miller is a must for any via ferrata fan looking to explore the ever-increasing spectacular climbs in the French Alps...

This is a comprehensive guide with routes for everyone. The routes are all graded for difficulty, exposure and overall seriousness and each is illustrated with sketch maps, photos and topo diagrams. All the details are here including access information, approach and descent details, length of the route, and expected time. In addition to the routes themselves, Richard Miller also includes vital explanations of the equipment and techniques required to get you started and a glossary of via ferrat terminology to make sure you're in the know. There's even a list of useful French words and phrases included in the book to help you order yourself a stiff drink in a local hostelrie after a day on the mountain'.

Trek and Mountain's Book of the Month, September 2014