Walking in the Languedoc

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Walk 8

Tour du Roc Noir

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Distance:  7.6km
Time: 2h45
Total ascent: 520m
Grade: B
Start point: Douch
Map:  IGN 2543 ouest (St Gervais)

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A superb, energetic walk partly open and partly through woodland to the north of Mont Caroux, exploring the villages of Douch and Héric, which give you an idea of the harshness and remoteness of rural life a century ago, and the valley of the Vialais, hemmed in by giant cliffs, including the soaring outcrop of the Roc Noir (watch out for deer and wild boar). Views of the Gorges d’Héric and the Pyrenees from above Douch are stunning. There is a gîte in Douch, La Jasse, where you can get lodging and a meal (reservation only, tel. 04 67 95 65 76).

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How to get there  

On the D908 past Lamalou les Bains, come to Le Poujol. About three-quarters of the way through the village, turn right (signed for Combes/Rosis). Start a long and spectacular climb up the mountain, through Combes (the auberge is recommended for its food and wonderful outdoor terrace), past the Clinique St Vital and on to Rosis. About 2km after Rosis, fork left to Douch. Just before the village there is a car park, left.

The route  

Go up to the village. At a small square (there is a small stone hut housing a spring where you can fill your bottle), the path goes up between trees and a field (heading southwest), past a stand of broom, and soon reaches a col (Col de l’Airole). 4 Do not go straight on – you’ll come back that way – but turn right towards some old sheepfolds and pick up blue waymarks.

Traverse a large combe and reach a col covered in heather. Turn right and head north into the valley of a stream (Salis). Cross the stream, turn southwest, then walk gradually northwest for 100m to arrive at another col (Col du Salis), where you find the junction with the Vialais path. Go left (red waymarks) and down (southeast) through beech woods and cross the Salis ravine. On the western slopes of the Roc Noir the path looks down on the stream (Le Vialais). Ignore a higher path (blue waymarks) and carry on, passing above an old sheepfold. Move away from the stream, heading south, and start to climb gently over the brow of a hill. Then go down until you reach the village of Héric.

The path back to Douch is well signed: it is part of the GR7 long-distance path. Just head northeast out of the village and keep going! The ascent takes about an hour and brings you back to the Col de l’Airole. From there, enjoy one more look at the view before heading down to Douch.