Explore the island of Corsica with a Cicerone guidebook - Sample Route

The longest-standing and easily the most wonderful long-distance route in Corsica, the Mare e Monti holds true to its name and provides a roller coaster of treats ranging from breathtaking coastline with blue sea and beaches to some awe-inspiring mountainous landscapes. It effects a huge ‘S' as it heads southwards, ducking in and out of the reliefs parallel to Corsica's rugged west coast. The many and varied highlights include the Forest of Bonifatu, the Fango river gorge, the isolated fishing village of Girolata, the Golfe de Porto and the Spelunca gorge, along with days and days of wandering through memorable maquis impregnated with the scents of the Mediterranean and unbelievable masses of wild flowers.

The Mare e Monti is sometimes referred to as Tra Mare e Monti, abbreviated as TMM on signposts. Carry plenty of drinking water every day – athough numerous watercourses are encountered, they are not necessarily reliable in terms of either quality or quantity. Another must is swimming gear for the rock pools, rivers and sea.

The route is theoretically feasible all year round in terms of terrain and weather, however in terms of accommodation, only a handful of the establishments stay open during winter. The concluding two days are shared with the Mare-Mare Nord route, and it is therefore a good idea to pre-book accommodation. Should the entire 10-day walk be too long in terms of time, it can be shortened by either compressing a couple of days (if you're fit), or doing it in shorter chunks as nearly all the villages touched on have bus services. A tricky task is to choose the ‘best' part of the route for people short of time – a hazarded suggestion would be the Bonifatu–Curzu or the Serriera–Evisa legs. The walk can also be lengthened by slotting into the Mare-Mare Nord route at Evisa and branching eastwards towards the island's centre and Corte.

Calvi with its citadel and port

En route to the start, everyone passes through Calvi i 04 95651667. This charming seaside town with a picturesque Genoese citadel (now occupied by the French Foreign Legion) is cleverly placed on a magnificent promontory, overlooking a colourful leisure port alongside a divine white sand beach. A curious item of historic trivia: in the late 1700s during a siege of the citadel by the English under Horatio Nelson, the great man won the battle but sustained serious injury to his right eye. A further if somewhat dubious claim to fame is the town's profession to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus! Calvi has shops galore, as well as restaurants and accommodation for all pockets, including the centrally located hostel BVJ Corsotel, Tel: 04 95651415, open April–October.

Access: The closest town to the start point is Calvi, a handy transport hub. The island's train comes this far via the Ponte-Leccia junction, as do coaches from Bastia and several ferries from the French mainland in summer. The walk start itself, at Calenzana, 12km inland (southeast of Calvi on the D151), is served by a twice-daily bus from Calvi's railway station, but only during midsummer. At other times there's a school bus. Failing that either try hitching or get a group together and hire a taxi – the GR20 commences here too, so trekkers are plentiful.

Villages encountered en route can be used as exit/entry points thanks to buses as follows. Tuarelli has a school-day bus to Galéria, which in turn is served by a school run and midsummer link with Calvi. Curzu and Serriera are on the May–October line between Porto and Calvi. Further on, from Ota you can reach Porto then Cargèse all year. Evisa and Marignana on the other hand have year-round links with Ajaccio, and Evisa is linked summer-only with Corte. The novel (and only!) way to leave the isolated fishing hamlet of Girolata is by boat to Porto or Calvi. At the trail's conclusion, Cargèse, there are always coaches for the 51km south to the island's capital, Ajaccio, as well as services north back towards the start.

Fill up your water bottle at the cool fountain in the main street close to the church, then turn right uphill for the Mare e Monti, in common with the GR20 for the time being. Plentiful waymarks lead out of the southeast edge of Calenzana and up to a paved path that winds and climbs steadily south-southwest through masses of heady herbs and flowers with the odd shady patch. Sheep tracks criss-cross the slopes and bright broom has colonised abandoned terracing beneath curious weathered rock formations. At a junction where the GR20 heads off on its own course, you keep right to follow orange paint splashes to the nearby scenic ample grassy saddle of

1hr – Bocca a u Corsu (581m). Due south now the path plunges down a wild dry hillside carpeted with scented broom and rock roses. Two stream crossings later it emerges at a bend to join a forestry track (415m). Keep straight on in imperceptible ascent following the contour line. While the going is a little monotonous, it gives you time to admire the accompanying blooms of the maquis shrubs, including the strawberry tree. These are the reforested realms of the Forêt de Sambuccu. Bearing east below prominent Punta Scaffa you head downhill past striking granite formations with views up to the peaks crowning the Cirque de Bonifatu, and to

2hr – bridge over the Figarella (360m). A boulder-choked watercourse with good spots for a cooling dip. After the crossing, the path (left) clambers over a dry rocky bed then hugs the stream. A short detour to a stunning natural pool, complete with its own cascade, is followed by a prominent rock overhang sheltering Corsican lilies and cyclamen. Then the path turns right in zigzags to emerge at the road and

Near the bridge over the Figarella

45min – Bocca Rezza (510m). With an inspiring backdrop of pink granite mountains inland, turn left on the D251 through shady wood for the remaining stroll to

Backtrack a short distance down the D251 to a stone bridge and huge signpost for the Mare e Monti. The clear path starts climbing in a southwesterly direction through beautiful shady forest of pine mixed with turkey oak. Underfoot amidst moss are pretty cyclamens and oversized Corsican hellebore, not to mention chaotic boar scratchings. Across the torrent are evocative ruins of the so-called Chalet Prince Pierre (the son of Bonaparte's brother Lucien). Soon afterwards is a fine lookout over lightly wooded red granite mountainsides with the meanders of the Figarella river.

A cover of tree heather and maritime pines with fissured bark dominate on the ensuing zigzagging slog that finally concludes the 700m climb at

2hr – Bocca di l'Erbeghiolo (1200m). Once you've got your breath back there are views all the way back to Calvi to be enjoyed. The path continues left (west) in descent to

15min – Bocca di Bonassa (1153m), which marks a surprisingly abrupt departure from the forest and you are surrounded by the fragrances of the maquis. Plunging views open up southwest. The descent path due south is all but suffocated by masses of lavender and Corsican hellebore for the initial dry tract, however light wood reappears as a constant companion and even the odd chestnut tree. You bear southwest and traverse countless sbreams in varying states of dryness, and pass round a rearing rock head outcrop. There are occasional views despite the dense wood cover. The next landmark is the marked saddle

2hr 10min – Bocca di Lucca (575m). Slow but sure descent through shoulder-high rock roses and juniper along with asphodels leads down to a quiet road. Turn sharp left parallel to the bank of the Fango river where you can collapse at

Follow the lane from the gîte back along the river to a bridge over a stunning gorge, but turn right without crossing it. A path quickly breaks off left to follow the river through waist-high rock roses and myrtle bushes. There are some superb swimming spots, and lovely views of the orange-red smooth porphyry rock-base the water has patiently moulded. Soon in sight is the

1hr 15min – Ponte Vechju (46m). Elegantly arched Genoese bridge, stunningly restored to its former glory. Your last chance for a dip – before the sea. Cross the bridge to a restaurant and pick up the D351 (right) northwest towards the coast. 1.5km along past a drinking fountain and farm properties is a junction where you keep right for

A short way along the D81, immediately after a minor bridge, the Mare e Monti turns off left at a restaurant sign to climb into a veritable canopy of tree heather above the road, essentially northwest. A lengthy stretch of dry scratchy scrub sees you through to a sizeable water tank and rough track. Maintaining the same direction a path resumes for gentle ups and downs and the odd watercourse, not to mention cows.

You eventually climb past an abandoned shepherd's hut encircled by huge fennel plants. A 180m col is gained overlooking the enticing coast and the delta of the Fango river. Flanking an old stone wall the path descends easily to the seaside village of

Past the post office and phone boxes, follow signs southwest for Calca along the quiet country road to the scatter of farms and

From Calca and the gîte turn left (southwest) along the road. After a bridge you are pointed left into the bush to penetrate a lovely wild valley headed by red rock crests. Shaded by oaks and chestnut, the path goes back and forth across a stream and passes a small dam. Heaps of old stone walls are encountered, overgrown with lentisc and rock roses, whose roots host an attractive red-yellow parasite akin to a mushroom.

At a large cairn there are lovely views back down over Galéria and a succession of headlands. The path winds up a little higher to a ridge where you catch sight of the serpentine Calvi–Porto road and look inland to jagged rows of crests. Bear right amid thick cistus bushes to soon reach a prominent evergreen oak and signed junction

Following the broad crest, the path bears west with plenty of openings in the light wood cover for constantly improving views. Shrubs have been sculpted into bonsai shapes by the combined effect of livestock nibbling and wind action. A sizeable cairn doubles as a marvellous viewpoint that includes the distinctive shape of Paglia Orba east-southeast. Then the ridge narrows considerably, obliging you to a short clamber over exposed rock. The next landmark consists of antennae and a small weather station.

The descent begins easily through thickets of rock roses, overlooking the warm red rocks of the Scandola promontory and tortuous coastline with myriad inlets. An oblique descent (right) leads to a semi-circle of stones on the ample saddle

Head along the eucalpyt-backed shingle beach with its jetties. At the far end, with a stream surrounded by a mass of yellow horned poppies, a path leads uphill past a tiny cemetery. Bearing east, it climbs over slabs alongside a dry-stone wall amidst shady shrubs to a signpost and

45min – col (150m). The variant branches off here. Keep left for the steady ascent northeast through colourful rock roses, taking your time to reach the road

1hr 10min – D81 (352m). Keeping an eye out for traffic on this narrow stretch, turn right along the tarmac until you are pointed up left and the path resumes (northeast). Ascending rocky sand-based terrain with the pleasant scent of ever-present maquis shrubs, the views improve with every step. On reaching Punta di u Munditoghju (640m) the path changes direction markedly and you bear right (east). Some level terrain at last leads to the foot of prominent Punta di u Tartavellu (only a short distance from Tuarelli as the crow flies). Here you bear right (south) to the next landmark, Bocca Ascensu (742m). More ascent follows, but Punta Salisei is thankfully detoured and you embark southwest on the marvellously panoramic Crête de Salisei. This culminates in stunning

The last leg to the village entails more tiring stony terrain and age-old olive trees. On the upper outskirts at the first houses, keep right at a signed junction for a succession of steps and laneways past old stone ovens to a drinking fountain and the D81 once more. Keep right for rather nondescript

Climb back up past the drinking fountain the way you arrived. Just below the last house turn right (southeast) on a goat track along overgrown terraces. Waymarking is constant but the going is particularly thorny – be warned! You coast above the cemetery and make your way past red rock outcrops and thickets of strawberry trees to a shoulder (370m). Not far downhill is a signpost and

1hr 15min – farm road (280m).

By turning right, in 30min you can detour to the cluster of houses that goes by the name of Partinello. On the panoramic verge of the D81, it has a café, restaurant and hotel Aria Marina, Tel: 04 95273033, open May– September. Continue straight across the unsealed road down past a paddock, keeping an eye out for faint paint splashes. These indicate a steepish descent beneath turkey oaks and cool undergrowth to the

20min – Rivière de Vetricella (66m), forded easily thanks to large stepping stones. Once over the other side, turn left for an uphilll track climbing out of the river valley to a

On a wider, older way you bear south-southwest between fields for grazing livestock. Waymarking then leads off the old lane for a path that concludes in the village of

Grocery shop at Serriera

From the village of Serriera (30m), opposite the shop, take the lane down to the river's edge to cross the concrete footbridge. You join a wide dirt forestry track (left) climbing east for some 2km. At a 268m junction a clear path forks off right into shady wood, where ring clearings once used by charcoal burners are encountered. An outcrop overlooks Serriera and the surrounding wild hills, then the climb resumes amidst pretty white ball blossoms of tree heather and lavender. Further up, the appearance of pines means you've almost completed the ascent to a broad crest clad in fresh green chestnut at

A wide path proceeds east-southeast alternating towering maritime pines with sweet chestnut and even the rare peony. After a ruined hut for drying chestnuts, a head of valley is rounded and the long descent commences southwards. Lookout points survey the coast, while closer at hand are massive rugged walls of deep red porphyry as you follow the magnificent Vitrone ravine. The stream is crossed several times then followed closely in a series of knee-jarring steps dwarfed by oppressive cliffs.

Finally out of the ravine, the path swerves left (south then southeast) past a little waterfall, a fairly level stretch providing respite from the previous steepness. Accompanied by a surprising range of orchids you gain a panoramic saddle, then embark on the last leg due east, with never-ending ups and downs to

The village of Ota surrounded by woods and mountains

After Chez Félix restaurant, head downhill (east) via lanes through terraces of olives and citrus for the gentle descent to the Rivière de Porto and the

40min – Pont Génois (200m) (also known as Ponte Vecchiu or Vechju). Reputedly the most beautiful restored 15th-century bridge of its kind on the island. Over the bridge the path turns left along the river bank past a playing field to a road bridge at the confluence of two watercourses. A delightful path rambles up the right bank of the Aïtone amidst bright masses of wild flowers. The rock walls of the gorge become taller as you approach through dense vegetation to what is left of

Continuing eastwards, the gorge is left behind as you puff up tight switchbacks edged by old stone walls beneath evergreen oaks and pines. The path finally levels out as you reach the cemetery and the D84, which is followed a short way to scenic

From the gîte d'étape proceed southeast along the road. On a corner just as the houses finish, branch off right for the descent via rough lanes to a stream crossing. An old wall is followed before a steep drop to the Tavulella and a 40min – hanging bridge (635m). The watercourse is crossed three more times, then a narrow path leads up to the abandoned hamlet of U Tassu (700m). A level stretch through chestnut woods brings you out at the road and

Head up the road past the cemetery to

10min – Marignana (715m). At the church turn left up the cobbled streets to woodland teeming with foraging pigs. Past the playing ground is a cross at

Sharp right a rough lane climbs to a crest, where you need to keep your eyes skinned for faint paint splashes for the path (left) across rock slabs into a chestnut copse. Aromatic flowered maquis soon takes over and a level old mule track heads west-southwest with great views all the way to the coast. At a minor pass Culetta a u Prunu (970m), the path narrows and turns down decidedly right (north) into chestnut woods and past a séchoir hut once used for drying the nuts. Some remarkably gnarled trees are encountered, testifying to their erstwhile importance for the local economy.

A couple of streams are crossed before you climb a dramatic red cleft valley and resume a southwest direction. Paved tracts of an old winding track appear from time to time, leading through a marvellous extended garden of rock roses, lilies and lavender to name but a few. A gradual ascent across rougher scrubby terrain concludes at the ample panoramic saddle

2hr 30min – Bocca Acquaviva (1102m), shaded by Capu e Macenue. Coasting west at first through overgrazed pasture past signs for a ‘source' (spring), you drop to the circular stone enclosures of the abandoned Bergeries de Casta. Follow cairns down the wide crest to an outcrop at 960m, where tight zigzags plunge you into the thickly wooded valley of Rognia with its many streams. A long, easy wander southwest through shady wood of strawberry trees and evergreen oak leads past the signed fork (right) for the hamlet of Revinda. A short further way on (southeast) you reach the isolated gîte d'étape of

Converted farmhouse, now the gîte d'étape E Case

Head off southeast into shoulder-high maquis across a gurgling stream then continue in gradual ascent through lilies galore, then gigantic strawberry trees, to the rocky crests of Pianu Maggiore, culminating at 650m. There are views back to Revinda, not to mention the approaching promising coast.

After an outcrop (471m), turn sharp left following a fence for a scrambly drop through dry scrub alongside paddocks. This finally terminates at a dirt track at

1hr 40min – Bergeries de Santa Lucia (220m). Follow the lane that loops down past a fork to cross the Esigna watercourse (about 190m) and stay on it for a matter of kilometres west. After a succession of stream crossings you reach a signed junction for Lozzi, but fork left to ford the watercourse (70m).

Waymarking needs following carefully for the ensuing climb along a series of lanes and sunken paths overgrown with brambles and even stinging nettles. The way comes out at a cluster of farms on a road close to a

Curious menhir above Cargése – evidently broken up since the photo was taken!

2hr – ruined chapel (380m) in Romanesque style, and there is a curious prehistoric menhir in the adjacent field. The route turns west enclosed by old stone walls through farmland with views, eventually dropping through scrub to a road. Go left then first right for the little-used D181, and down to the crossroads of