Walking on the Greek Islands - the Cyclades

Guidebook to 35 walks exploring the Greek islands of Naxos, Paros, Amorgos and Santorini in the Cyclades. Walks range from 4km to 17km, many using traditional working paths but some challenging sections. Includes the 5-stage Naxos Strada coast-to-coast route.

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Overview

This guidebook offers 35 day walks across the four Cycladic islands of Paros, Naxos, Amorgos and Santorini. Best explored in spring and autumn, each island offers a unique walking experience and the walks range from easy 4km town tours to 16km hikes visiting remote peaks in wild interiors. This is the first guide to feature the new 50km Naxos Strada, which is introduced as a series of five day walks.

The walks often follow traditional paved paths which have been used by locals for centuries and the guide offers a wealth of insights into the history, geology and wildlife of the areas travelled through. Dotted amongst rugged mountains and working farmland are historic sites dating back to the height of Ancient Greece and impressive rural monasteries. On the coast, white sand bays and dramatic cliffs frame the expansive blue Aegean sea.

For each walk, this guide includes detailed route description and Anavasi mapping to aid navigation. It also contains information about getting to the Cyclades and island hopping, along with an English-Greek glossary of key words and phrases and an appendix full of useful contacts.

Table of Contents

Contents
Introduction
History
Geology
Vegetation and wildflowers
Animal life
Climate
When to go
Travel to the islands
Travel around the islands
Accommodation
Eating and drinking
Shopping and services
What to take
Using this guide
Paros
Walk 1 Parikia town to Cape Fokas
Walk 2 Northwest coast to Kolimbithres
Walk 3 Northwest peninsula eco-park
Walk 4 Naousa port, inland to marble mines
Walk 5 West-coast hills to Parikia
Walk 6 Lefkes village and Byzantine Way
Walk 7 South from Lefkes to Dryos port
Walk 8 Southwest coast: Piso Livadi to Dryos
Walk 9 Angeria mountain circular
The Naxos Strada
Walk 10 Naxos town tour
Walk 11 Potamia villages and marble hills
Walk 12 South coast to Demeter’s Temple
Walk 13 Rural byways below Profitis Ilias
Walk 14 Wild lands around Apalirou
Walk 15 Central villages and Fanari foothills
Walk 16 Filoti village and Mount Zas
Walk 17 Apiranthos to emery mines and port
Walk 18 Koronos, mountain and east-coast bay
Walk 19 Kynidaros, downriver to Engares
Walk 20 Strada 1: Plaka to Kato Potamia
Walk 21 Strada 2: Kato Potamia to Filoti
Walk 22 Strada 3: Filoti to Apiranthos
Walk 23 Strada 4: Apiranthos to Koronos
Walk 24 Strada 5: Koronos to Apollonas
Amorgos
Walk 25 Egiali and mountain villages
Walk 26 Remote north: monastery and mountains
Walk 27 Along the island spine to Chora
Walk 28 Inland capital to Katapola port
Walk 29 Old routes inland to the capital
Walk 30 Rollercoaster route: Katapola to Vroutsi
Walk 31 Ancient Arkesini and southwest farms
Santorini
Walk 32 Caldera rim: Fira to Ammoudi Bay
Walk 33 Ancient Akrotiri and southwest cape
Walk 34 Villages and vineyards to Emborio
Walk 35 Highest peak and Ancient Thira to Perissa

Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Useful Greek words and phrases
Appendix C Bibliography
Appendix D Useful contacts

Updates

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July 2021

Author updates

p. 103 (Walk 12)

The author reports that the paths marked on the Anavasi map, leading N from the temple, and the gate behind the temple, are now closed (chains, padlocks, high fences and security cameras). After touring the temple site do not return to the double metal gate to continue the walk as stated at the end of the 1st para of p.103. Instead the third para [‘Go through the double metal gate…] should read: 

‘Return to the main entrance of the Demeter’s Temple site, and turn R to go along the lane you came down earlier. Go uphill until you see an opening R to a way marked footpath 7 to Ano Sangri.

 The monopati emerges…’

The map on p 101 should omit the section N of the temple and retrace the route to the dotted path R off the road.

The Temple site is closed on Tuesdays and otherwise – at least late spring to end September – open 08:30–15:30 with last admission at 15:10.

p.149, 2nd para (Walk 21)

They’ve cut off a kink here, so last 3 lines should now read: ‘….go sharp R, then cross to steps with green wooden railings….’. The route map is unaffected.

p.163 (Walk 23)

The link to Keramoti (shown as a blue route line on the map) has been opened. It was a long battle to get this final link in the Strada cleared, and the work was eventually done by volunteers a few days before this book was published. Over the year and more of lockdown and low hiker traffic, the path has become quite overgrown but not impassable. 

Directions for following this link route are as follows (from the beginning of the 2nd para p.163):

‘Opposite is a smart new sign indicating the entrance to the path to Keramoti, but you have to scramble up a crumbling bank and negotiate a wire fence to access it. (For an easier route, you can continue to the end of the dirt track to the main road, turn L walk 1.5km to rejoin the Strada at Stavros, but you miss the charming tiny village of Keramoti). It’s bordered by dense maquis and high fields, then crosses R a small deep valley. Follow the valley side above vine terraces and drop to a dirt road.  Turn R to pass buildings, where there's with a water source, and go L at the fork, past a chapel. This leads along the valley side opposite the tiny village of Keramoti.  Descend until a clear, narrow monopati goes down L, follow it to a ruined building and turn R. Turn L to cross the stream and go up via blue railings at the start of Keramoti village. 

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