The Pilgrims' Way

To Canterbury from Winchester and London

By Leigh Hatts

ISBN

9781852847777

Availability

Published

2 Feb 2017

Reprinted

20 Oct 2021

Edition

First

Pages

208

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x 1.20cm

Weight

230g

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This guidebook describes an ancient pilgrimage route in southern England from Winchester in Hampshire, or Southwark, London to Canterbury, a 138 mile walk through wood and farmland, with views across the Weald. Divided into stages of about 10 miles, with route summary and information on public transport, accommodation and places of interest.

Seasons

Medieval pilgrims were hardy and often undertook the walk in winter but summer and autumn offer the chance of seeing hops, hillside vineyards, lavender fields and orchards bursting with growth.

Centres

Winchester, Alton, Farnham, Guildford, London, Dartford and Rochester, with plenty of accommodation and easy transport on the two routes.

Difficulty

The first pilgrims always sought the easiest route so while there are unavoidable rises in ground and sometimes steep hills there are also long flat stretches. No special equipment is required beyond a water bottle and sandwiches in case progress is slower than expected. The ancient rutted path can be partly flooded in wet winter months.

Must See

The Pilgrims' Way is often along a shelf on the side rather than the top of the North Downs but still high enough for long views. The downs are broken by valleys marked by chapels, castles and river crossings.

ISBN

9781852847777

Availability

Published

2 Feb 2017

Reprinted

20 Oct 2021

Edition

First

Pages

208

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x 1.20cm

Weight

230g

Overview

This guidebook details the Pilgrims' Way, an historic pilgrimage route to Canterbury Cathedral in Kent, home of the shrine of the martyred archbishop, St Thomas Becket. The route is described both from Winchester in Hampshire (138 miles) and London's Southwark Cathedral (90¼ miles), with an optional spur to Rochester Cathedral.

With relatively easy walking on ancient byways, the route from Winchester is presented in 15 stages of 5-14 miles: it can be comfortably completed in under a fortnight. It follows a major chalk ridge through scenic countryside, taking in characterful towns and villages and historic churches. The route from Southwark is described in 10 stages and includes a visit to the ruined Lesnes Abbey.

Detailed route description is accompanied by 1:50,000 OS mapping, advice on making the most of a trip and information on the historical background to the pilgrimage, key historical figures and local points of interest. Accommodation listings and details of facilities and transport links can be found in the appendices.

Pilgrimages to Becket's shrine began within a few years of the his death in 1170, although Canterbury was a popular destination even before this time due to the nearby shrine of St Augustine. The route has featured in literature, drama and film, and forms the setting for Geoffrey Chaucer's famous Middle English work, The Canterbury Tales.

Table of Contents

Map key

Route Summary Table

Overview map

Introduction

History of the Way

Renewed interest

Historical figures along the Way

Variations to the Way

Walking the Way

When to walk

Where to stay

Refreshments

Waymarking

Maps

Using this guide

Winchester to Canterbury

Stage 1 Winchester to Alresford

Stage 2 Alresford to Alton

Stage 3 Alton to Farnham

Stage 4 Farnham to Guildford

Stage 5 Guildford to Box Hill

Stage 6 Box Hill to Merstham

Stage 7 Merstham to Oxted

Stage 8 Oxted to Otford

Stage 9 Otford to Wrotham

Stage 10 Wrotham to Halling

Stage 11 Halling to Aylesford

Stage 11a Peters Village to Rochester

Stage 12 Aylesford to Harrietsham

Stage 13 Harrietsham to Boughton Lees

Stage 14 Boughton Lees to Chilham

Stage 15 Chilham to Canterbury

London Route

Stage 1a Southwark to Shooters Hill

Stage 2a Shooters Hill to Dartford

Stage 3a Dartford to Otford

Appendix A Itinerary planner

Appendix B Accommodation

Appendix C Further information

Appendix D Further reading

Updates

June 2023

Author updates

Wrotham Station and village
On page 108 the distance from Borough Green & Wrotham station to Wrotham is 1 mile (1.6km).

Wrotham Recycling centre
On pages 106 and 108 the recycling centre mentioned has closed

Peters Village road name change
On page 118 Hall Road is now called Village Road. The change concerns the road through Peters Village. Hall Road north of the roundabout (the way to Rochester page 122) retains the old name.

June 2023

Ropley church

On pages 41-42 Ropley church has been restored and is open 9-5 with tea and coffee available. The building now has toilets.

December 2021

2021 reprint route updates

777 Reprint 2021 (4.697 MB)

September 2021

Frederick Delius and Thomas Beecham

On page 96 the Oxted information includes mention of Frederick Delius and Thomas Beecham’s graves. These are found at Limsfield church on the east side of Oxted.

November 2017

Route updates

Chartham Hatch, page 159

The Chapter Arms pub has closed.

Harbledown, page 160
The parish church is called 'St Michael & All Angels', not All Saints.

June 2017

On page 74 the second sentence in the last paragraph should read: “Near the top of the hill go left by Southbrooks Farmhouse.”

On page 78 the second sentence in the last paragraph should begin: “At a second bus stop go left…”.

On page 80 remember to start counting the flights of steps as soon as you leave the stepping stones. At the turn off point there is an arrow on the left pointing to the right.

Appendix B Shooters Hill, page 201
Rose Cottage bed & breakfast has closed.

May 2017

Seale, page 62
Totfield Lane should be Totford Lane.

St Martha’s Hill, page 70
After St Martha’s Church look out for purple waymarks which are a good guide as far as the kissing gate opposite the post box at Albury Street (page 71).

Hackhurst Downs, page 75
Once through the kissing gate onto Hackhurst Downs note that the National Trust sign calls the spot 'Blatchford Down'.

Appendix B Wouldham, page 202
Wouldham Court Farm bed & breakfast has closed.

April 2017

Bishop's Sutton, Page 40
At the bottom of the page: note that the road runs downhill followed by a slight incline before going further downhill. The stile on the left is a little further along the road than maybe expected and is seen at the last moment.

Ropley, Page 42
The "unusual corrugated iron gate" has been replaced with a kissing gate.

Woodside Hill hamlet, Page 44
Start of last paragraph: At the bottom of the hill you pass Lower Woodside Farm (left) before the road double bends. After 0.25 miles turn left when the road goes sharp right.

Reviews

Reassurance at every stage

I'd like to compliment the author, Leigh Hatts, on his route guidance. Particularly eastwards from Farnham, after the Pilgrims' Way leaves the well waymarked St Swithun's path, signage is unreliable. But carefully crafted brief descriptions of junctions and mentions of house names and landscape and built features along the Way provide reassurance at every stage. In 11 days of walking we made only one navigational error, and that was less due to the book than to the tasty distraction of hedgerow damsons beside the path! Thank you Mr Hatts and Cicerone. We enjoyed our walk along this ancient route immensely!

Graham, by email

Very accurate, very up to date, very interesting and a good pocket-size guide.

I have just used Leigh Hatts' guide to the Pilgrims Way and found it very good indeed. Very accurate, very up to date, very interesting and a good pocket-size guide. No need for any updates at all !

David White, by email

This guide book is first class - it has everything

The Pilgrims' Way is an ancient 141-mile route from Winchester Cathedral in Hampshire to Canterbury Cathedral in Kent. Canterbury Cathedral houses the shrine of St Thomas Beckett, who was murdered by knights loyal to Henry II in I 170 after a major and very public split with the king. The route follows ancient byways and scenic countryside but should not be confused with the North Downs Way, the 156-mile National Trail from Farnham in Surrey and which has a Canterbury loop, although both routes do often Coincide.

This is the second guide book by Leigh Hates to be published by Cicerone, following his Thames Path and Lea Valley Walk guides, and it has everything - an extremely thorough step-by-step route description with maps; distances from the various stops; detailed information on places to see en route and background on Becket; transport details and recommended pubs, hotels, guest houses and other accommodation.

There are also full details of the other Pilgrims' Way, a 90-mile route from Southwark Cathedral in London which links with the main route at Otford and which was immortalised by Geoffrey Chaucer in the Canterbury Tales.

This guide book is first class, but the only problem with the Pilgrims' Way - as Leigh Hatts tells us - is that waymarking on the route is rare and often non-existent, and that's such a shame on a trail so rich in heritage.

Graham Smith, Strider

I bought a copy of the new Pilgrims Way guide and am wowed by it. Leigh Hatts has made a cracking job of it, and your team in Milnthorpe has once again came up trumps in putting together another attractive guide that scores on every count. You’ve all done a great service to pilgrims of the future.

By email, Feb 2017

It’s a 136-mile route packed with interest and history, and Leigh Hatts, creator of the Thames Path, is an entertaining and knowledgeable guide.

Outdoor Focus, Summer 2017

"An excellent guide to this English Camino"

The Catholic Herald

"Another great Cicerone publication, in their tradition of producing attractive and accurate walking guides...

Pocket size - but the contents are certainly not pocket size. Inside, on glossy paper, we find a huge amount of information backed by excellent colour photos. There are clear directions [and] the practical things... are all clearly and succinctly presented.

Hatts includes the historical, spiritual and literary background, which makes this book much more than just a guide to walking a footpath. In his introduction and inserted into the walk at strategic points, is fascinating and relevant information about saints, historical figures, churches, writers and artists - enriching the walk both at the planning stage and as it is undertaken. this amount of material makes it also very readable for anyone doing some armchair travelling.

This must be the definitive guide to the Pilgrim's Way... a pleasure to browse, dip into, use for a local walk, or study before or during the walk - highly recommended."

Helen Willson, the Confraternity of Saint James

"Clear descriptions and maps for people seeking to make the pilgrimage in the 21st Century"

The Great Outdoors

"It's a bonus for two routes to be included so you can choose the most relevant one for you. All vital info is included, such as advice on when to walk [the Pilgrim's Way], where to stay and refreshment at each stage. It's the definitive guide for anyone wanting to walk the Pilgrim's Way.

Outdoor Enthusiast

"This guidebook is first class, but the only problem with the Pilgrim's Way - as Leigh Hatts tells us - is that waymarking on the route is rare and often non-existent, and that's such a shame on a trail so rich in heritage.

[This guidebook] has everything - an extremely thorough step-by-step route description with maps; distances from the various stops; detailed information on places to see en route and background on Becket; transport details and recommended pubs, hotels, guest houses and other accommodation."

Graham Smith, the Long Distance Walkers' Association

Downloads

The Pilgrims' Way - GPX File

Leigh Hatts

Leigh Hatts has been walking the Thames towpath and exploring the river and Docklands since 1981, when he worked on the feasibility study that resulted in the decision to establish the route as a National Trail. He worked as a reporter with the walkers’ magazine TGO and as arts correspondent of the Catholic Herald. He is co-founder of Bankside Press.

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