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Guidebook to trekking the Pyrenean Haute Route, which zigzags across the Franco-Spanish border, staying close to the main ridge in the highest and most spectacular Central Pyrenees. It covers 750km with over 40km of ascent, so is suitable for experienced mountain walkers only. The largely unwaymarked route is presented in 44 stages.
Free Royal Mail 48 postage on UK orders. European postage is £3.50 per item. Worldwide postage is £5.50 per item. If you're not happy with your purchase for any reason, we'll give you a full refund.
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A guidebook to trekking the 748km (465 mile) Pyrenean Haute Route (Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne, HRP) along the France–Spain border. Suitable for fit experienced trekkers comfortable with mountainous terrain, this challenging unwaymarked route traverses the Pyrenees from sea to sea, from Hendaye on the Atlantic Coast to Banyuls-sur-Mer on the Mediterranean, with the aim of staying as high as possible.
The PHR is divided into 44 graded stages of 8 to 28km (5–17 miles), nearly all ending at overnight accommodation. These are presented in 5 sections, which can be accessed by public transport, for the benefit of those wishing to trek only part of the route. Also included are optional ascents of 10 classic summits, including Vignemale, Le Taillon and Pico de Aneto.
Map key
Overview map
Route summary tables
Preface
Introduction
The route
Geology
Plants and wildlife
Mountain weather
When to go
Getting there
Accommodation and services
Food, drink and fuel
What to take
Maps
Path conditions
Insurance, mountain safety and rescue
Using this guide
Section 1: Hendaye to Lescun
Day 1 Hendaye to Col de Lizuniaga
Day 2 Col de Lizuniaga to Arizkun
Day 3 Arizkun to Aldudes
Day 4 Aldudes to Roncesvalles
Day 5 Roncesvalles to Egurgui
Day 6 Egurgui to Col Bagargui
Day 7 Col Bagargui to Cabane d’Ardané
Day 8 Cabane d’Ardané to Source de Marmitou
Day 9 Source de Marmitou to Lescun
Variant 1 From Refugi de Belagua to Lescun via La Pierre Saint-Martin
Section 2: Lescun to Gavarnie
Day 10 Lescun to Refuge d’Arlet
Day 11 Refuge d’Arlet to Candanchu
Day 12 Candanchu to Refuge de Pombie
Day 13 Refuge de Pombie to Refuge de Larribet
Day 14 Refuge de Larribet to Refuge Wallon
Variant 2 Refuge d’Arrémoulit to Refuge Wallon
Summit 1 Grande Fache (3005m) from Refuge Wallon
Day 15 Refuge Wallon to Refuge de Bayssellance
Summit 2 Vignemale (3298m) from Refuge de Bayssellance
Day 16 Refuge de Bayssellance to Gavarnie
Summit 3 Le Taillon (3144m) from Gavarnie
Section 3: Gavarnie to Salardú
Day 17 Gavarnie to Héas
Summit 4 Piméné (2801m) from Refuge des Espuguettes
Day 18 Héas to Parzán
Variant 3 Parzán via the high route to Hourquette de Héas
Day 19 Parzán to Refugio de Viados
Day 20 Refugio de Viados to Refuge de la Soula
Day 21 Refuge de la Soula to Refuge du Portillon
Day 22 Refuge du Portillon to Refugio de la Renclusa
Summit 5 Pic Perdiguère (3222m) from Portal de Remune
Summit 6 Pico de Aneto (3404m) from Refugio de la Renclusa
Day 23 Refugio de la Renclusa to Hospital de Vielha
Day 24 Hospital de Vielha to Refugi de la Restanca
Day 25 Refugi de la Restanca to Salardú
Summit 7 Montardo d’Aran (2826m) from the Coll de Crestada
Variant 4 Three days on the GR11 from Refugio de Viados to Hospital de Vielha
Section 4: Salardú to l’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre
Day 26 Salardú to Refugi Gràcia Airoto
Day 27 Refugi Gràcia Airoto to Alós d’Isil
Day 28 Alós d’Isil to Refugi Enric Pujol
Summit 8 Mont Roig (2868m) from Refugi Enric Pujol
Day 29 Refugi Enric Pujol to Refugi de Certascan
Variant 5 To Noarre via Tavascan
Summit 9 Pic de Certascan (2853m) from Coll de Certascan
Day 30 Refugi de Certascan to Refugi de Baborte/del Cinquantenari
Day 31 Refugi de Baborte/del Cinquantenari to Étang de la Soucarrane
Day 32 Étang de la Soucarrane to Refugi de Sorteny
Day 33 Refugi de Sorteny to Refugi de Cabana Sorda
Day 34 Refugi de Cabana Sorda to l’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre
Section 5: L’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre to Banyuls-sur-Mer
Day 35 L’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre to Refuge des Bésines
Day 36 Refuge des Bésines to Refuge des Bouillouses
Variant 6 GR10 to Refuge des Bouillouses
Day 37 Refuge des Bouillouses to Eyne
Day 38 Eyne to Refugi d’Ull de Ter
Summit 10 Pic des Bastiments (2881m)
Day 39 Refugi d’Ull de Ter to Refuge de Mariailles
Day 40 Refuge de Mariailles to Refuge de Batère
Variant 7 GR10 to Refuge des Cortalets
Day 41 Refuge de Batère to Mas de la Fargassa
Day 42 Mas de la Fargassa to Las Illas
Day 43 Las Illas to Col de l’Ouillat
Day 44 Col de l’Ouillat to Banyuls-sur-Mer
Appendix A Useful contacts
Appendix B Glossary
Appendix C Facilities table
June 2025
Please be aware that this section can be challenging in difficult conditions.
July 2023
The hostel Refugi Rosta, in the village of Salardú, has changed its name to Alanieve. The new contact details are www.alanieve.com and info@alanieve.com
July 2021
Day 3, arriving at Aldudes. Entering the village, coming down the tarmac road, the municipality owns a big white building with red shades. It offers the possibility to buy drinks and sandwiches. For €2 you can take a shower.
Stage 4 3.30. There is also water available when you come to Col de Burdincurutcheta.
Thank you to Peter Jones for this information.
April 2021
There have been a few map changes and a number of changes concerning accommodation. Finally there's a word about Covid-19 measures for the 2021 season.
p39. Rando Éditions Mapa Excursionista maps nos. 23, 22 and 21 are no longer available. Hikers can buy Rando Éditions Carte de Randonnées nos. 13, 6 and 7 instead, they cover the Pyreanean Haute Route for that area too.
p92. Refugio de Belagua is open. The hut has 56 places and prices for overnight stays and halfboard are very reasonable. There is also a bar and restaurant. Make your reservation online on https://refugiobelagua.es or over the phone: 623 10 73 17.
p126-133 Refuge Wallon is closed for renovation until the end of 2021. Find the latest updates here: http://www.refuge-marcadau.csvss.fr/en/home. The whole site is closed, so the only option there is a bivouac (many good places). For those wishing to sleep inside the only alternative is to hike on the Pont d'Espagne (2h) and take a taxi to Cauterets, where you find hotels.
p150. Refuge des Sarradets remains closed. It is at present unclear if the hut will open for the 2021 season. Check https://refugebrechederoland.f... for the latest updates.
p180. The phone number of Refuge de la Soula has changed. Instead of the numbers given in the book, phone 05 62 40 23 41.
p258. The correct timing for day 31 is 5h20, not 5h. In the route description the correct timing is given.
p290. Refuge des Bouillousses is closed for renovation and is scheduled to reopen in the autumn of 2021. There are two alternatives closeby: Auberge du Carlit (https://lesioux.fr/aubergeduca..., tel 04 68 04 22 23) and hotel Les Bones Hores (https://www.lesboneshores.fr, tel 04 68 04 24 22)
p319. Ecogite Moulin de la Palette has closed permanently. At Montalba d'Amélie (1h further) it is possible to pitch a tent and get water. For those wishing to stay inside, a solution could be to stay at refuge de Cortalets on day 40 and in Arles-sur-Tech on day 41.
And a word about Covid-19:
It speaks for itself that Covid-19 measures will apply everywhere. For every form of accommodation, it is recommended to inform about these measures on the relevant website before you set off. In the 2020 season the author witnessed that the huts operate more or less as usual, the main differences being reduced capacity (groups sleep in a separate wing of the hut, whereas individual hikers sleep in a place where the required physical distance from others is assured) and the obligation to disinfect hands and wear a mask inside the hut.
August 2019
*p 176, Refugio de Viados has changed its reservation phone numbers, they are now 974341613 and 669230078. It is equally possible to make a reservation online: www.alberguesyrefugios.com/viados/
*p 39, Rando éditions is in the process of renumbering and reprinting its maps. What is mentioned in the book as map 23 is now for sale as map 13. Maps 22 and 21 are currently out of print, but maps 6 (Couserans/Val d'Aran) and 7 (Haute Ariège) cover the necessary areas for the HRP too. In the future, maps 22 and 21 will most probably be numbered resp. 14 and 15. It is not clear when exactly they will be for sale.
*p 83, day 6: the shop next to the restaurant at col Bagargui no longer exists. There is now a shop in the same building as the bureau d'acceuil, at col Héguichouria. There are gas canisters (type EN417) for sale there.
*p 262, day 32: Contrary to previous years, restaurant La Goma is open for this summer.
*p 267, Day 33: the timing for the part between Refugi de Sorteny and Collado dels Meners is wrong. It should be 2hrs to Collado dels Meners instead of 4hrs, making the total time for day 33 6.25hrs instead of 8.25hrs.
p105 last digit missing for Camping La Bergerie should be as listed on p106 : tel 05 62 92 48 41
p83, day 6: The shop that used to be next to the restaurant at Col Bagargui has closed. Instead, there is now a shop at the bureau d'accueil at Col Héguichouria. Gas canisters of the EN417 type are for sale there.
(Thanks to reader Bjorn Forselv for bringing this to our attention)
June 2019
GPX files are available to be dowloaded .
Page 4, the reference to Peter Forrest's web site should be to
not www.hrp.org. Our apologies.
p39, concerning the maps needed to hike the PHR: IGN carte de randonnée 1346OT - St-Jean-Pied-de-Port is no longer needed if you have the more recent Rando Éditions maps no1 (Pays Basque Ouest) and no2 (Pays Basque Est). Only with the older versions of these maps there is a gap between these two maps. Rando maps printed 2006 and later are OK.
Tom Martens grew up in Belgium and first visited the Pyrenees in 2008 with a friend who had made him enthusiastic about the mountain chain. This first exploration was so enchanting that he has been back every year since. He has hiked extensively in the national parks and traversed the whole length of the Pyrenees several times. He has guided groups of youngsters on long, intensive hikes and climbed many of the high peaks. So far, he has spent 500 nights in the Pyrenees, mostly bivouacking. He has a special interest in mountain wildlife. Other regions where you can often find him hiking include Scotland and Estonia, where he currently lives.
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