The Tour of the Bernina

9 day tour in Switzerland and Italy and Tour of Italy's Valmalenco

By Gillian Price

ISBN

9781852847524

Availability

Published

5 Mar 2015

Edition

First

Pages

176

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x 1.30cm

Weight

240g

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Guidebook describing a 9-stage (119km) route around the Piz Bernina massif in the Alps on the Swiss-Italian border near St Moritz, and the 8-stage (94km) Alta Via Valmalenco exploring the Valmalenco valley, in the shadow of Monte Disgrazia. The Tour of the Bernina is suitable for first-time trekkers but the Alta Via needs some experience.

Seasons

Late June to late September.

Centres

In Switzerland: St Moritz, Sils Maria, Pontresina, Maloja, Bernina Pass, Poschiavo In Italy: Sondrio, Chiareggio, Chiesa in Valmalenco

Difficulty

While no glacier crossings are involved on these treks, some basic alpine walking experience is recommended. Clear paths and old mule tracks are followed for the most part, along with routes over rough rocky terrain, and snow cover is to be expected early in the season.

Must See

Awesome glaciers from Val Roseg, Rifugio Del Grande and Rifugio Marinelli in Valmalenco, and the Diavolezza belvedere. The Bernina Express train between Tirano and St Moritz experiences fantastic views and can be used to access the Bernina trek. Spectacular peaks en route include 4049m Piz Bernina, 3937m Piz Roseg, 3678m Monte Disgrazia, 3323m Pizzo Scalino.

ISBN

9781852847524

Availability

Published

5 Mar 2015

Edition

First

Pages

176

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x 1.30cm

Weight

240g

Overview

This guidebook describes two treks in the Bernina region of the Swiss-Italian Alps. The Tour of the Bernina covers 119km in nine stages circling the Piz Bernina massif. Five days are spent in Switzerland and four in Italy, however a number of inviting extensions and detours are also described which add at least two days to the total. The tour is suitable for trekkers with basic alpine walking experience. While the highest point reached is 3002m, there are no glacier crossings en route.

The Alta Via Valmalenco in Italy is a shorter, 8-stage trek over 94km, but is a more challenging route suitable for trekkers with more experience. Almost every stage of both treks can be accessed from a valley floor and public transport, opening the door to multiple variants and shorter treks. Detailed stage by stage route descriptions are given in combination with plenty of background and practical information.

Table of Contents

CONTENTS

Getting there and map key

Route summary tables

Overview map

Introduction

The Tour of the Bernina

The Alta Via Valmalenco

About glaciers

Plants and flowers

Wildlife

Getting there

Getting around

Tourist information

When to go

Accommodation

Food and drink

What to take

Waymarking and maps

Dos and don’ts

Emergencies

Using this guide

The Tour of the Bernina

Stage 1 Pontresina to Fuorcla Surlej

Stage 2 Fuorcla Surlej to Maloja

Stage 3 Maloja to Rifugio Longoni

Stage 3A Maloja to Chiareggio

Stage 3B Chiareggio to Rifugio Longoni

Stage 4 Rifugio Longoni to Lago Palù

Stage 5 Lago Palù to Rifugio Carate Brianza

Stage 6 Rifugio Carate Brianza to Rifugio Bignami

Stage 7 Rifugio Bignami to Cavaglia

Stage 7A Rifugio Bignami to Selva

Stage 7B Selva to Cavaglia

Stage 8 Cavaglia to Berghaus Diavolezza

Stage 8A Cavaglia to Ospizio Bernina

Stage 8B Ospizio Bernina to Berghaus Diavolezza

Stage 9 Berghaus Diavolezza to Pontresina

The Alta Via Valmalenco

Stage 1 Torre di Santa Maria to Rifugio Bosio Galli

Stage 2 Rifugio Bosio Galli to Rifugio Ventina/Rifugio Gerli-Porro

Stage 3 Rifugio Ventina/Rifugio Gerli-Porro to Chiareggio

Stage 4 Chiareggio to Lago Palù

Stage 5 Lago Palù to Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri

Stage 6 Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri to Rifugio Bignami

Stage 7 Rifugio Bignami to Rifugio Cristina

Stage 8 Rifugio Cristina to Caspoggio

Appendix A Glossary

Appendix B Accommodation

Maps

Waymarking and maps

Italian signpost showing path numbers and timings

Waymarking is good all the way round both treks. In Switzerland paths are indicated by a frequently placed painted red stripe on a broad white background, while in Italy there are equal red/white stripes, often with a distinguishing number. Markings are found on prominent fence posts, tree trunks and rocks. Path junctions also have a clutch of signposts. It’s helpful to remember that signs may bear the name of the final destination of the route, so check your map if you need an intermediate point.

All these numbers and routes are shown on commercial walking maps. While sketch maps are provided in this guide, limitations of space make it impossible to include full details, essential in an emergency, so it’s imperative that walkers obtain the recommended maps.

Luckily a single map covers both the Tour of the Bernina and the Alta Via Valmalenco: Kompass 1:50,000 sheet 93 – ‘Bernina Valmalenco Sondrio’, available from specialised booksellers such as www.stanfords.co.uk, outdoor suppliers and shops in the Bernina region.

If desired, more detailed 1:25,000 maps are available: for the Engadine Valley on the Swiss side of the Bernina there’s Landeskarte der Schweiz (Swiss National Survey maps) n.2521 – ‘St Moritz Bernina’; whereas for the southern valleys there’s ‘Valmalenco – Carta dei Sentieri’, published by the Consorzio Turistico Sondrio Valmalenco and sold locally.

Updates

May 2023

Accommodation update

Stage 1: Rifugio Fuorcla Surlej is not currently offering accommodation

(thanks to Frank Browning)

Chamanna Coaz is closed in 2023 for refurbishment.

March 2022

Stage 7 Rifugio Bignami to Cavaglia

Rifugio Cavaglia is currently closed. Walkers can either press on to Agriturismo Alpe Palu (approx 1hr) or catch a train on to Alp Grum.

March 2022

Stage 1 Pontresina to Fuorcla Surlej

The hut at Fuorcla Surlej will be closed for renovations throughout 2022.

September 2016

Route updates and corrections

end of Stage 1 Fuorcla Surlej has accommodation from mid-July to end August. NB Reservation essential!

Stage 7A descent should be 1300m

Tour of the Bernina
Stage 2- Val Fex to Isola variant
The upper part of the descent path from Marmore towards Curtins has been closed because of a rockfall.
As a result instead of 'Keep R at the junction' take the official diverted path L of the junction which goes slightly higher above and parallel to the original route and then descends to rejoin it further along. Path is shown on the Kompass map.

Alta Via Della Valmalenco
Stage 1
Rifugio Cometti Grandi is closed for the time being

Stage 2
Rifugio Gerli-Porlo is CAI

Stage 3
Suggestion: Stay at Rifugio Tartaglione Crispo so that you can complete the high level loop via Rifugio del Grande Camerini pack-free.

Stage 4
The popular Rifugio Lagu Palu may be pre-booked by large groups at weekends. Excellent alternative accommodation is available at Rifugio Motta on the opposite side of the lake. Allow one hour to walk to it. Tel 0342451406 or cell 3403368496

(Thanks to David Hasell and Gustav Dobrzynski)

September 2015

Bernina Tour, Stage 1: the rifugio at Fuorcla Surlej is reportedly no longer offering accommodation

(Thanks to John Atherton)

Appendix B

The Tour of the Bernina
Stage 2
Hotel Silserhof is in Sils Maria
Sporthotel and Chesa Alpina are in Maloja

Stage 3
Hotel Genziana and Hotel Chiareggio are in Chiareggio

Stage 5
Fior di Roccia and Edelweiss are in Franscia

The Alta Via Valmalenco
Stage 8
Hotels: Fior di Monte is at Caspoggio while Chalet Rezia and Miravalle are at Chiesa in Valmalenco.
NB please remove 'CAS, open etc' from last two hotel listings.

Reviews

Helpful for planning and on-the-trail use.

I asked [Gillian Price] for a recommendation on a trek in the Dolomites or the Swiss Alps. Last August we did the Bernina trek. It was absolutely wonderful. We thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. Your recommendation was spot on. It was a challenge but very rewarding. We thoroughly enjoy your guidebooks, They have been helpful for planning and on-the-trail use. Keep up the good work on your guidebooks!
Bruce

This guidebook is highly recommended... just what you need.

The instructions are very clear... I was pleased to read at one point: "Don't take the apparent shortcut... It is nothing of the sort". I have been caught out like that in the Alps.

The Cicerone guides have a high reputation and Gillian Price is an experienced writer for them. This is her tenth. It seems to be to be just what you need, and all with waterproof covers, small enough for a pocket.

Fell and Rock Club Journal.

This guide book is heartily recommended. If you have never been on this sort of expedition it would be an excellent introduction. If you have been, well these routes look very enjoyable.

The actual guiding seems to be very precise; short of walking out the routes I cannot guarantee that there are no confusing moments, but the instructions are very clear about where to fork left, which turnings not to take and so on. I was pleased to read at one point: ‘Don’t take the apparent short cut…It is nothing of the sort.’ I have been caught out like that in the Alps.

The Cicerone guides have a high reputation, and Gillian Price is an experienced writer for them. This is her tenth. It seems to me to be just what you need, and all with waterproof covers, small enough for a pocket. It is full of attractive photos too, and snippets of historical and local detail. The first section of the book is a substantial introduction to Alpine walking, which is thoroughly practical and worth reading with care. As well as interesting sections about geology and natural history there is a good kit list, a section on ‘Procedure for Refuges’ and a well-thought out list of Dos and Don’ts.

This book is first class of its sort. It should inspire folk to go. And then, when they do, it should see that they have a safe and enjoyable time.

The Fell and Rock Journal, 2016

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Gillian Price

Gillian Price has trekked throughout Asia and the Himalayas, but now lives in Venice. Gillian has steadily explored the mountain ranges of Italy, and Corsica, and brought them to life for visitors in a series of outstanding guides for Cicerone. She is an active member of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and Mountain Wilderness.

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