The Tour of the Bernina

Guidebook describing a 9-stage (119km) route around the Piz Bernina massif in the Alps on the Swiss-Italian border near St Moritz, and the 8-stage (94km) Alta Via Valmalenco exploring the Valmalenco valley, in the shadow of Monte Disgrazia. The Tour of the Bernina is suitable for first-time trekkers but the Alta Via needs some experience.

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Overview

This guidebook describes two treks in the Bernina region of the Swiss-Italian Alps.
The Tour of the Bernina covers 119km in nine stages circling the Piz Bernina massif. Five days are spent in Switzerland and four in Italy, however a number of inviting extensions and detours are also described which add at least two days to the total. The tour is suitable for trekkers with basic alpine walking experience. While the highest point reached is 3002m, there are no glacier crossings en route.

The Alta Via Valmalenco in Italy is a shorter, 8-stage trek over 94km, but is a more challenging route suitable for trekkers with more experience. Almost every stage of both treks can be accessed from a valley floor and public transport, opening the door to multiple variants and shorter treks.
Detailed stage by stage route descriptions are given in combination with plenty of background and practical information.

Table of Contents

Contents
Introduction
The Tour of the Bernina
The Alta Via Valmalenco
About glaciers
Plants and flowers
Wildlife
Getting there
Getting around
Tourist information
When to go
Accommodation
Food and drink
What to take
Waymarking and maps
Dos and don’ts
Emergencies
Using this guide
The Tour of the Bernina
Stage 1 Pontresina to Fuorcla Surlej
Stage 2 Fuorcla Surlej to Maloja
Stage 3 Maloja to Rifugio Longoni
Stage 3A Maloja to Chiareggio
Stage 3B Chiareggio to Rifugio Longoni
Stage 4 Rifugio Longoni to Lago Palù
Stage 5 Lago Palù to Rifugio Carate Brianza
Stage 6 Rifugio Carate Brianza to Rifugio Bignami
Stage 7 Rifugio Bignami to Cavaglia
Stage 7A Rifugio Bignami to Selva
Stage 7B Selva to Cavaglia
Stage 8 Cavaglia to Berghaus Diavolezza
Stage 8A Cavaglia to Ospizio Bernina
Stage 8B Ospizio Bernina to Berghaus Diavolezza
Stage 9 Berghaus Diavolezza to Pontresina
The Alta Via Valmalenco
Stage 1 Torre di Santa Maria to Rifugio Bosio Galli
Stage 2 Rifugio Bosio Galli to Rifugio Ventina/Rifugio Gerli-Porro
Stage 3 Rifugio Ventina/Rifugio Gerli-Porro to Chiareggio
Stage 4 Chiareggio to Lago Palù
Stage 5 Lago Palù to Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri
Stage 6 Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri to Rifugio Bignami
Stage 7 Rifugio Bignami to Rifugio Cristina
Stage 8 Rifugio Cristina to Caspoggio

Appendix A Glossary
Appendix B Accommodation

Updates

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September 2016

Route updates and corrections

end of Stage 1 Fuorcla Surlej has accommodation from mid-July to end August. NB Reservation essential!

Stage 7A descent should be 1300m

Tour of the Bernina
Stage 2- Val Fex to Isola variant
The upper part of the descent path from Marmore towards Curtins has been closed because of a rockfall.
As a result instead of 'Keep R at the junction' take the official diverted path L of the junction which goes slightly higher above and parallel to the original route and then descends to rejoin it further along. Path is shown on the Kompass map.

Alta Via Della Valmalenco
Stage 1
Rifugio Cometti Grandi is closed for the time being

Stage 2
Rifugio Gerli-Porlo is CAI

Stage 3
Suggestion: Stay at Rifugio Tartaglione Crispo so that you can complete the high level loop via Rifugio del Grande Camerini pack-free.

Stage 4
The popular Rifugio Lagu Palu may be pre-booked by large groups at weekends. Excellent alternative accommodation is available at Rifugio Motta on the opposite side of the lake. Allow one hour to walk to it. Tel 0342451406 or cell 3403368496

(Thanks to David Hasell and Gustav Dobrzynski)

September 2015

Bernina Tour, Stage 1: the rifugio at Fuorcla Surlej is reportedly no longer offering accommodation

(Thanks to John Atherton)

Appendix B

The Tour of the Bernina
Stage 2
Hotel Silserhof is in Sils Maria
Sporthotel and Chesa Alpina are in Maloja

Stage 3
Hotel Genziana and Hotel Chiareggio are in Chiareggio

Stage 5
Fior di Roccia and Edelweiss are in Franscia

The Alta Via Valmalenco
Stage 8
Hotels: Fior di Monte is at Caspoggio while Chalet Rezia and Miravalle are at Chiesa in Valmalenco.
NB please remove 'CAS, open etc' from last two hotel listings.

Reviews

​This guidebook is highly recommended... just what you need.

The instructions are very clear... I was pleased to read at one point: "Don't take the apparent shortcut... It is nothing of the sort". I have been caught out like that in the Alps.

The Cicerone guides have a high reputation and Gillian Price is an experienced writer for them. This is her tenth. It seems to be to be just what you need, and all with waterproof covers, small enough for a pocket.

Fell and Rock Club Journal.

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This guide book is heartily recommended. If you have never been on this sort of expedition it would be an excellent introduction. If you have been, well these routes look very enjoyable.

The actual guiding seems to be very precise; short of walking out the routes I cannot guarantee that there are no confusing moments, but the instructions are very clear about where to fork left, which turnings not to take and so on. I was pleased to read at one point: ‘Don’t take the apparent short cut…It is nothing of the sort.’ I have been caught out like that in the Alps.

The Cicerone guides have a high reputation, and Gillian Price is an experienced writer for them. This is her tenth. It seems to me to be just what you need, and all with waterproof covers, small enough for a pocket. It is full of attractive photos too, and snippets of historical and local detail. The first section of the book is a substantial introduction to Alpine walking, which is thoroughly practical and worth reading with care. As well as interesting sections about geology and natural history there is a good kit list, a section on ‘Procedure for Refuges’ and a well-thought out list of Dos and Don’ts.

This book is first class of its sort. It should inspire folk to go. And then, when they do, it should see that they have a safe and enjoyable time.

The Fell and Rock Journal, 2016

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